Perfume Review: Agent Provocateur Maitresse
I did not expect to like Maitresse, the new Agent Provocateur fragrance, at all. The notes, white lotus, ylang ylang, osmanthus, jasmine sambac, white suede, made it sound as a heady white floral, a perfume genre I rarely enjoy. And the name, well, the name was rather irritating. If it was supposed to mean mistress as in “little bit on the side”, as someone who’s been on both sides of that side, I am not amused. I choose to think that it was meant to have a kinky dominatrix vibe. Agent Provocateur has to maintain its saucy image after all.
The scent surprised me. Yes, it is does start as a rather powerful white floral. The beginning of Maitresse smells like the lushest, biggest, most expensive white bouquet a rich admirer’s money could possibly buy. Everything is in abundance here. The fresh whiteness of the lotus, the warm, creamy whiteness of ylang ylang (and I believe tuberose too), the bright, luminous whiteness of jasmine. It is decadent, luxurious, it smells expensive. But not vulgar. In fact, the blend, lavish as it is, is very smooth and very sophisticated. The osmanthus in the middle stage brings in the subtly fruity, slightly spicy, tea-like undertone and warmth to the composition. The scent is further heated up and “rounded” by the base, which has a floral chypre vibe, and is, for me, the best part of Maitresse. It is piquant, velvety, a little leathery and very warm. That spicy, vaguely leathery accord is what makes Maitresse very “Agent Provocateur” for me, by which I mean not only that it is sassy but also that the same peppery warmth is present in the original Agent Provocateur fragrance and in Eau Emotionnelle. Maitresse, to me, smells the way Dita von Teese looks; it is insolent, flamboyant and very chic.
I am not sure how this raunchy number would fit my
Images are from agentprovocateur.com and dita.net.