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Monday, June 04, 2007

Perfume Review: Delrae Amoureuse

Being very much in love with Edmond Roudnitska's perfumes and the general spirit and style of his work, I am always looking for traces of his influence in other perfumers' creations. The influence seems to me to be quite apparent in his son Michel's Amoureuse, composed for Parfums Delrae. It is impossible to describe any perfumer's style in a couple of sentences, especially not such complex genius' as Edmond Roudnitska, but if I had to sum up very simplistically what I feel is the prominent characteristic of his approach, I would say that his fragrances are built on a contrast. On a contrast between the very elegant, at times cool and aloof elements and the dark, often animalic undertones. Take my beloved Diorama: the utter refinement of the floral notes is juxtaposed with the sinful sensuality of civet and castoreum. I sense the same kind of duality, albeit less pronounced, in Roudnitska Jr.'s Amoureuse.

The beginning of the scent is fruity and piquant, with tangerine and cardamom blended into an intriguing, very remotely gourmand harmony. I find that sweet and spicy accord incredibly attractive, and the pungent candied-ness of cardamom provides a segue into the slightly indolic jasmine in the same appealing manner as in The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit. For a while, jasmine, ornamented with the golden spiciness of cardamom, seems to reign over the composition without much competition from other floral notes. Soon, however, lily comes into prominence, and from then on Amoureuse is the battlefield of the two white floral giants, with lily, with its beautifully cold aroma, winning eventually. This is my favorite stage of the scent, and that is where the contrast of supremely elegant and dirty that I described above is especially apparent. There is something beneath the virginal white lily petals...the lingering indolic-ness of jasmine, the cardamom tang, the increasingly more potent cedar note...something that muddies the white-floral beauty in a very sensual manner. I wish that the lily lasted longer, instead, its chilly note is eventualy replaced by a very warm and creamy accord, a mix of tuberose, honey and sandalwood. The drydown feels very thick, almost a little cloying, however I do appreciate the fact that the honeyed butteriness is what makes Amoureuse so very lustful and voluptious. Incredibly feminine and beguiling, Amoureuse is a stunner.

Amoureuse is available at Beautyhabit, $125.00 for 1.7oz.


Blogger lilybp said...

I feel inadequate here. I know this is generally beloved, but the couple of times I tried it, it seemed too heavy and too fruity to me. I do love Jasmin de Nuit, so maybe I should try again. I have to say I don't have much luck with Delraes.:(

6:38 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Marina, is that Monroe in that gorgeous pic?

6:58 AM EDT  
Blogger chayaruchama said...

I think I enjoy sniffing this more than I enjoy wearing it...
Which seems to happen, for me, with the Delrae's.
Not sure why.

A great review, though.
[How's it going in the new digs ?]

7:55 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I do find the base quite heavy to the point where I almost want to wash it off. But overall the scent is so gorgeous that I tend to tolerate that stage.

8:29 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

It is Monroe! I hope all is well!!

8:29 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Thank you, we are settling. Everything is unpacked now it's just the emotional settling in, so to say :-)

8:29 AM EDT  
Blogger elle said...

I adore this scent. Madly. Passionately. Eternally. But...I find I don't wear it all that often. I think maybe some of the magic would wane if I wore it too frequently. It's also way too intense for me if I spritz it on directly - *really* wish they'd put it in a bottle where I could remove the top. Literally more than one small drop overwhelms me.

8:34 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I agree. This is not one to be sprayed with abandon :-) I mean, the top and middle notes would be gorgeous when sprayed but the base would probably just kill me. :-)

8:35 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Maybe I need to try this again. It was an odd mixture of savory and sweet on me when I tried it a while ago. I liked it, then didn't like it.

8:50 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

It's a tricky one, isn't it. Very capricious. As is befitting of a bombshell :-)

8:56 AM EDT  
Blogger donanicola said...

Last night I suddenly realised that I had spent the last 3 days in E. Roudnitska's company (well kind of). Femme on Friday, Eau d'Hermes on saturday and Diorella yesterday. Isort of smelled a thread and then realised what I had inadvertently done. He was a genius. I have yet to sample Amourese (sorry if spelling off) but it sounds gorgeous. I love JdeN so feel I am at least half way there. Thank you for a lovely review and that delightful photo of MM. Isn't she just beautiful.

9:02 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I can't think of a better company, perfumer-wise. I do think that you are half-way there, with JdN.

9:04 AM EDT  
Blogger StyleSpy said...

I adore Amoureuse, it's one of my top 3, and I do spritz with abandon. There's something almost intoxicating (in the literal sense) about standing in a cloud of that stuff. It's such a warm, sensual floral, I find it way sexier than Carnal Flower. Bombshell, indeed.

9:55 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I agree! Definitely intoxicating- in a figurative and literal sense!

10:51 AM EDT  
Blogger tmp00 said...

Lovely review- but a fragrance that I just can't do. I know someone who wears this and just overdoes it. Ugh.

12:14 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Oh gosh, it would be a torture to be near someone who overdoes Amoureuse.

12:22 PM EDT  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

Amoureuse needs to be released in Eau de Toilette, or even Eau Fraiche. I love it, but it ought to come with a dropper so that you can be absolutely sure not to over apply! Great review.

12:31 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I absolutely agree! It is definitely one scent that begs to be also offered in a lighter form. LOL about the dropper!

12:40 PM EDT  
Blogger lilybp said...

BTW, this perfume was the subject of my favorite review on MUA. It's by baybe (all her reviews are great, but this is a masterpiece):

Thank God I can still write, because this stuff almost leaves me speechless. Maker's list of notes: tangerine,cardamom,tuberose,jasmine,cedar, moss, and honey, and it's supposed to smell like a box tree. MY list of notes (in order of appearance): tangerine runs by sqeaking as it's being chased by a herd of bloodthirsty bipolar jasmine and tuberose waving their spears. When they thunder by again, it is apparent that the tangerine peed on them as it expired. They continue to stampede back and forth several more times before returning a final time, collapsing in a sweaty heap on me, and then they stay. They stay and stay and STAY. Cardamom shows up, hangs out a little while, then continues on his journey to Nepal, dude. Box tree shows up, wrinkles its nose in disgust, and moves on. The stinky indole note continues to amplify for another hour. It becomes clear at this point that the herd has decided to camp out for the night, and has thoughtfully dug latrines. The rest of my night is spent sleeping fitfully while the herd sings drinking songs, entertains hoochie mamas, and fights. The next morning they are still there, sleeping in after their night of debauchery. They wake up and leave one by one, until by late afternoon only the latrines remain. At this point, the sweet honeyed note makes its tardy appearance, and it's a real lulu combined with the latrines. An additional hour, and it's all gone except for a faint echo--and the memories. Yes, folks, well over 24 hours of olfactory mayhem from one large spritz! So, you ask, why did I award this four lippies? Oddly enough, I really love this stuff. It is truly the most big-girl uber-femme perfume in the world---sex gone wild, like Mae West with rabies. The secret for me is to use just one---ONE!---drop in my cleavage. It is much more manageable that way, and you get only a small amount of the animalic molecules--just enough to attract attention from men. Good attention! :-D One bottle will last 1,573,494,058 years.

1:27 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

"The rest of my night is spent sleeping fitfully while the herd sings drinking songs, entertains hoochie mamas, and fights." OMG, that is so funny!

1:43 PM EDT  
Blogger carmencanada said...

Now, really, did a need a new lemming? Guess I did. I'll have to dig out my sample again. I didn't get that huge flower-fest when I dabbed it on last, and now I want it, complete with latrines. (BF's comment on some of my indolic tests: "Oh, another of your poopy ones!"). I've just spent three days doused in, alternately, Tubéreuse Criminelle and Un Lys, so I guess I'm in a bitch-floral mood.

4:49 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

LOL. I love the poopy, I mean, indolic, jasmine. Just love it.

5:09 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

OMG, I loved that review by baybe so much that I printed it and put it on the fridge. I adore Amoureuse, but I save it for only certain types of days - I hate the thought that I could burn out on it, and I love that honeyed linden scent that lingers in my clothing for days.

6:15 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

And for me that honeyed-ness, especially in the base, is basically the only thing that is not perfect in this scent.

6:30 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

ROTFL, lilyofbp - "Mae West with rabies!?" I MUST try this one! Obviously only for special occasions/heavy romance, NOT the office! I might just be able to carry this one off now that I am of a certain age...after all, I can wear Jolie Madame now! (I think I will wear that tomorrow, in fact, and think about Amoureuse!)

1:46 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I think you can wear it anywhere with a VERY moderate application :-)

8:20 AM EDT  

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