By MarinaA darker and, arguably, more broodingly handsome cousin of Eau d'Italie's Bois d'Ombrie and Baume du Doge, Al Oudh has inherited the same dusty date note as the former and raw earthiness of saffron as the latter. (Funny that this new L'Artisan creation of Duchaufour's makes me think of his Eau d'Italie scents, not L'Artisans.) What sets Al Oudh apart from the relatives at Hotel le Sirenuse are, yes, oud and cumin.
When I first started on the path of perfume obsession way back when (a long time ago, it feels, when dinosaurs lived with man and died in the flood) there existed such a fairly widespread phenomenon as cuminophobia. Perhaps, fragrance lovers nowadays aren't scared by the sweet sweatiness of the note, but I feel the warning is in order just in case: the warm, velvety stinkiness of cumin dominates the first half of Al Oudh's development and is mighty perceptible in the second half. To the point where one might ask, where is oud? Oud does emerge towards the end but it is ... Duchaufour's take on the note. It is dense and strangely airy at the same time and smoky in a paradoxically transparent sort of way ...a thin strip of smoke coming out of a dry gray pebble...this is an image I see when I smell the oud and incense notes of this fragrance.
But I digress from the star note of the blend, the cumin. Accompanied by a soupçon of cardamom, quite a bit of vanilla and the aforementioned dates, it is creamy and rich. One doesn't know whether to hunger after its deliciousness or to be perversely titillated by its dirtiness. In other words, it's how a cumin accord should be done. As for oud...this is not an oud perfume for the oud purists, but one for the fans of Duchaufour's talent for modern and unique interpretation of traditional ingredients and popular inspirations.
Available wherever L'Artisan is sold, $155 for 100ml.
I liked this one, but having had a bit of experience with the Middle Eastern oudhs, and more with aloeswood incense, I didn't need a bottle. I think it's a good Westerner's take on oudh, and many might wear this one when they find the real deal too intense or strange. How did you feel about it compared with some of the the Amouages, or with another Western brand, Montale?
ReplyDelete-Marla
Marina, nice to see you again.
ReplyDeleteI'm a buyer for oud - like in LeLabo (...), or like in White Oud. On the other hand i'm also a big admirer of Duchaufour' work, so yes, it's definitely a must try.
(These days I can't live without my Coeur de Veiver Sacre).
Hi Marina,
ReplyDeletefew weeks ago I tested Al Oudh, as I am testing many Ouds for my upcoming business with arabian perfumes, and was shocked. All I could smell was a stinky smell of sweat. I just could not stand it...I think it is because of a high dose of cumin!
Nazima
www.scents-of-arabia.blogspot.com
Marla,
ReplyDeleteI think, compared to AMouages and Montales it is even more of a Westerner's take.
Melinda,
ReplyDeleteLovely to see you! Would love to know what you think of Al Oudh after you try it.
bosnishmuslima,
ReplyDeleteYep, definitely a lot of cumin there
I agree with Marla that it is somehow a translation for the Western tastes (although that huge cumin note is a surprise, but that is BD for you!) Still, quite memorable!
ReplyDeleteI am also deep into the perfumery Arabian Tales with the new Armani Prive collection.
V,
ReplyDeletewas just reading your review...new bunch of Prives... I am starting to think that I will never ever catch up on new releases. :)
Gee, I am really undecided on this. I should probably just get a sample vial and end it. I'm not thrilled about cumin (taste or smell), but am curious about the blend. For my nose, Le Labo's version of oud is exactly what I want to smell like. A "white oud", yes. I'm still on the hunt for many interpretations, however, it's just too much fun.
ReplyDeleteI really love Al Oudh. Smells gorgeous on me. In the intense heat of the summer, it was even more gorgeous, which I wasn't expecting.
ReplyDeleteCarrie Meredith,
ReplyDeleteI think it is interesting enough to warrant getting a sample, especially since you said you are looking at different interpretations.
Furriner,
ReplyDeleteI actually can totally imagine it works really well in the heat, because it is fairly dry and not sweet.
This is the first "heavy on cumin" scent I've found it possible to wear without smelling like sweaty armpits. Maybe my skin is so permanently saturated with the "real deal" that the cumin feels intimidated :-)
ReplyDeleteAlthough it's far from a faithful reproduction of oud I think people who find "the real thing" too strange, too fecal, or too overwhelming would welcome this Western interpretation.
I agree, this is maybe a beginner's oud.
ReplyDeleteI really like this too - it's refined enough to wear in public, unlike the Montales, which are mostly NOT. I love them, but they are not exactly work-friendly!
ReplyDeleteTrue, they are not exactly office wear
ReplyDeleteReally need to try. Will try as soon as I get a moment (and am no longer writing in brief fragments). Love cumin.
ReplyDeleteJudith,
ReplyDeleteI wonder if you might find just a tad too tame.
o.k., tried yesterday at Liberty in London. I like cumin, both in food and parfume, so I didn' feel "inimidated" by it, but simply there's not enough oudh for my taste...
ReplyDeleteMelinda,
ReplyDeleteI agree, not oudy enough when one wants an oud.
hello marina. i wear al oudh because of the balance between east and west, and the mixture of sweetness with that smoke you describe so vividly.
ReplyDeleteFabiana,
ReplyDeleteIt certainly is very well balanced, I feel.