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Wednesday, July 12, 2006

Perfume Review: Tann Rokka Kisu

Tann Rokka (Romany for "house talk") is a fashionable and eclectic “lifestyle store” in London that sells antique and contemporary furnishings, luxurious home accessories as well as candles and fragrances, Aki and Kisu. Kisu, Japanese for “kiss”, created by Azzi Pickthall, is said to have been inspired by Japanese ancient bathing rituals, and features notes of ylang ylang, rosewood, cedarwood, musk and “marine” accord.

Kisu is a scent that never sits still on my skin; its transformations are fascinating and rapid. And yet the changes are not abrupt, each stage flows into the other quickly but smoothly. The scent starts with a bright citrus accord that makes me think of the peppery freshness of grapefruits and the understated fruitiness of bitter oranges. The subtle sweetness of the initial notes evolves into the richer, floral sweetness of ylang ylang and the brightness is replaced with a languid twilight of what I perceive to be patchouli. The patchouli is joined by woods; cedar is especially prominent, to my nose. Soon musk becomes subtly apparent too; combined with whatever it is that comprises the “marine” notes; it adds an interesting salty and sensual undertone to Kisu. This undertone reminds me of Eau des Merveilles, the two scents seems to share this saline, woody, slightly animalic and a little powdery quality. In the very late drydown the citruses re-appear, albeit more subtly, in a way bringing the scent full circle and rounding and elegantly finishing the composition.

This tasteful, interesting, and, to me, definitely unisex, fragrance can be found at Luckyscent, $75.00-$125.00.
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The image is from Luckyscent.com.
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Tomorrow, Ambre Sultan, a review by Tom.

27 comments:

  1. Why? What have I done to annoy the perfume gods? Do I not offer financial sacrifices at a regular enough basis? My cc certainly suggests that I do. So why do I not get a relative of Eau de Merveilles from Kisu? I can't help but have visions of a Calvin Klein scent from the 90s w/ this scent from start to finish. Off to kneel down at perfume god altar w/ Kisu sample in hand and plead for different skin chemistry.

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  2. Anonymous7:43 AM EDT

    I don´t really know what to think about Kisu:
    On the one hand, I feel really tempted by it, but on the other I´m not sure if I can wear it on a regular base. Sometimes I find it too harsh, but there´s definitely something about it that makes me want to smell it from time to time.
    I always thought there are roses in it...I don´t know, why. For me, it´s kind of a rose scent...
    I´d also say that it´s a unisex scent & oh...the more I think about it, the more I want to own it!
    You really caused a lemming - I´ve to search for my sample! *running away* ;)

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  3. Clearly annoyed the same gods as Elle! This is a scent that I thought was really interesting on someone else--and really meh on me! And no Merveilles:( Oh, well, perhaps the credit card gods are looking out for me (Lord knows I sacrifice to them, too:)

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  4. What Elle and Lily said. I tried Kisu twice and it just sits there. Like a bump on a log. Not an interesting bump, either. Just sort of incensey-room-spray-ish. And I really wanted it to work, because I'd already fantasized about where that lovely bottle would fit into my decor ... sigh. Hey, on the other hand, at least I get leather in your HG mods from Clement ;-)

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  5. Elle,
    *agog and lighting up candles to thank perfume gods*
    A Calvin Klein scent from the 90s? That is scary :-) (well, at least it is not Klein's scent from the 80's!!)

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  6. Malena,
    I wouldn't be surprised if there were roses in it. Why not? The official notes never tell the full and/or true story, so if your nose tells you there are rose, trust your nose! :-)

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  7. Judith,
    Interesting. I wonder if any commenter today would say they like it. Malena seems to be ambivalent about it...

    Have you tried Aki?

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  8. March,
    It just sat there? How intersting. It was like a caleidoscope on me, constantly changing. *blesses own skin chemistry*

    And, ouch about leather in HG! Ouch!

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  9. Anonymous9:25 AM EDT

    Kisu-Shmisu... I don't remember what this smells like but I do remember it not being all that. OK, I shouldn't be so harsh and just revisit it. Great review! :)

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  10. Nope, no Aki. Didn't even know it existed. . . :) What's it like?

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  11. Ina,
    I am all alone in my like of Kisu! Aieee!

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  12. Judith,
    It is "thicker" and woodier. Quite nice, I thought :-)

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  13. I am glad you reviewed this one so nicely. I couldn't wrap my nose brain around it from the sample. Its opening is really acidic to me. Thanks for the review.

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  14. Anonymous10:15 AM EDT

    No, no, you´re not alone - I like Kisu quite a bit :) I just don´t know how much...
    Oh, & I also tried Aki, but I cannot say anything about it - well, nothing nice actually.
    My first impression was. "Oh, no, I need air, fresh air, please!" ;) But others told me they liked it on me (& I read good things about the stuff, too).
    So I always thought I should give Aki a second chance, before I say that it´s horrible or something like that.
    The only problem is: It´s really hot over here & I think I´ve to wait until it gets a bit colder!
    You know, I really want to like Aki ;)! I don´t know why, but I want to ;)

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  15. I want that bottle, LOL! But it doesn't sound like my sort of thing, does it?

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  16. Malena,
    That makes the two of us! :-)
    It's hot here too and awfully humid but I actually find Kisu very wearable in that sort of weather.

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  17. Vika,
    We should then alert luckyscent and sites like beatynyc to that mistake too, since they all credit Azzi Pickthall with creating Kisu. Which, I suppose, she has a right to, as a creative director, but I guess that should be specified.

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  18. R,
    You know, I would not be terribly surprised if you actually liked this one. Really!

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  19. Cait,
    So nice to "see" you! Now, acidic opening does not sound like a good thing!

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  20. Vika,
    Now the question is, was Kisu then not created by her either? She is billed with its creation practically everywhere where Kisu is mentioned. Hmm.

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  21. Vika,
    I am so glad you too think Kisu is pretty. I thought it was just Malena and me who liked it :-)

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  22. F,
    You know, it has very good lasting power on my skin. It is actually quite tenacious. It is on my wish list too. I would have bought it just for the bottle alone :-)

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  23. J,
    Great to know you like Kisu too. That makes 4 of us :-)
    They should have given you that tester for free, that's what they should have done!

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  24. Anonymous4:13 PM EST

    As far as I know Kisu was difinitely created by Azzi and she also created the entire concept.

    Azzi is also invoved in all Agent Provocateur fragrances and Chrtistian Provenzano is not declared as the creator of any of the Agent Provocateur fragrances.

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  25. Anonymous9:48 PM EDT

    KISU concept was created by TANN-ROKKA store owners Lisa Lee and Lisa Eastwood, the fragrance its self created by Christian Provenzano. Azzi Pickthall,was not the creator or concept desighner

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  26. Anonymous1:15 PM EDT

    I am crazy about Kisu having discovered purely by chance in Coco de Mer in Convent Garden. I always have a bottle at home. I never fail to be complemented on the delicious scent whenever I wear. It lasts forever on my skin.

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  27. Anonymous6:42 PM EST

    Azzi Glasser worked with Lisa Lee and Lisa Eastwood on creating the entire concept and fragrance of Kisu.

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