The "green movement" in fragrance continues, much to my delight. Maison Martin Margiela's offering to the genre boldly puts the meaty, earthy, vegetal green of galbanum in the forefront and the centre of its first perfume, named (Untitled) as an obvious nod to the brand's no-label policy. The copy and the video about the creation of the scent (see below), go somewhat overboard, labeling... pun intended...the scent as "radical" and even "iconoclastic", and I suppose that, in a way, in the world of cheerful-sexy fruity florals, a scent this green and reserved, is nothing short of avant-garde.
I imagine, however, that to those who rarely partake of the ...I will use a loose term "mass market" oevre, and lean towards the classics and the "niche", (Untitled) might actually smell traditional/vintage, like something that would be found in the H&R Guide next to Private Collection and Murasaki...with a twist of edgy. In the composition of (Untitled), galbanum, aided by lentisque, and, later in the development, a touch of jasmine, stand for the Classic. Incense, which appears towards the base, is there to make the fragrance contemporary and quirky and "non-stereotypical". (Note how evident this principle of classic-hip is in the packaging: traditonal for a bottle of perfume shape and no-label label.)
I find the combination of the sharp yet fleshy green of galbanum and the sweetly-tarry, almost leathery incense very appealing. The fusion lends (Untitled) a feeling of being both sparse and satisfyingly robust. I haven't been able to find out if and where the Margiela fragrance is sold in the States, it doesn't appear to be so. It is avialable at Colette, EUR80.