Scents of Place: The Artisan Advantage
By
Donna
The debate over natural versus synthetic perfumes is ongoing, and
both viewpoints have their proponents. It is generally agreed that
mixed media compositions are usually the most successful
artistically, while purely synthetic scents can lack character and
seem faceless or cheap. Naturals often have issues with longevity and
the unavoidable limiting factor of fewer source materials to work
with. However, there is one thing that fragrances with a high
percentage of natural materials can do that synthetics cannot, in my
experience; evoke an actual sense of place, and “three dimensional”
impressions of the real world. It is true that any aroma, not just of
a perfume, can trigger a memory or an emotion. Fragrances can do it
by design, and a skilled perfumer can orchestrate smells to bring
forth a complex array of sensations. This is where artisan perfumery
displays one of its greatest strengths – without accountants, focus
groups and brand managers looking over their collective shoulders,
they are free to follow their own ideas to conclusion and draw the
rest of us into their world. I am highlighting just a few of these
ideas from recent introductions by some of our most talented
fragrance artists.
Shelley Waddington of En
Voyage Perfumes created Rainmaker to celebrate her new
hometown of Portland, Oregon (which is also where I live) and its
unique cultural vibe. Appropriately, it has an ozonic note, but it
also has a grounded feel to it. To me it smells like a wet day in the
city when it has just been raining and the evaporating moisture fills
the air, amplifying the smells of wet pavement, old trees, muddy
earth, bark mulch, grass and crushed flowers under a dramatic sky.
Anything with a petrichor note will capture my attention, and this
one gets it just right. In other words, it smells very much like an
idealized version of my own neighborhood, and if I step out into my
garden on such a day I will have a very Rainmaker experience. It has
a cologne-like transparency, yet it maintains its fresh appeal for a
long time into the drydown, a testament to what a well-judged blend
of naturals and synthetics can accomplish. Truly unisex, the appeal
of this easy to live with scent is very broad.
The opposite of the cool wet Northwest is the desert, a place Amber
Jobin of Aether
Arts
Perfumes knows well; Red Dodecahedron is the latest in
her Burner series based on her annual pilgrimage to the Burning Man
festival in Nevada. The immediate sensation from this fragrance for
me is sun-baked dust sifting into everything; I have no idea how this
was done but it’s very impressive. It does not stop there, but
continues to develop into a sensual fragrance that includes black
pepper, chamomile and a base of woods and resins including
frankincense and sandalwood. It also has an animalic quality,
bringing to mind the earthy denizens of Burning Man. After being in
the desert sands, a cool beverage is most welcome, and her new
Strawberry Sling perfume oil
just hits the spot. This is a scent that emerged from the
perfumer’s own experience of sipping a cocktail while smelling
flowers blooming nearby, and it’s so delicious that it should have
a warning label on it that says “do not drink.” A blend of
lemon-scented natural essences results in the exhilarating zest of
freshly squeezed Meyer lemons, mixed with a spot-on vodka accord
accented with rosemary and a strawberry note paired with rose. I
really loved this one, and I am hoarding my sample to wear when
summer comes around again and it’s too hot for most other kinds of
perfume. This is a textbook example of the kind of fun, offbeat work
to emerge from the studios of indie perfumers who have free rein over
their own work.
Sometimes a perfumer chooses to pay homage to Mother Nature in a more
specific way; in The Voices of Trees, Dawn Spencer
Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes
creates a scent that feels like an evergreen forest, with richly
balsamic resin perfuming the air as the trees tower overhead, swaying
gently in the wind. As narrow as its focus is, it is more than just a
“smell” and works perfectly as a fully realized fragrance. I
can’t open the vial without thinking of the woods behind my house
when I was a child, a place where I spent endless hours among the
pine, spruce and hemlock trees. Another recent DSH creation, the
limited edition La Belle Saison evokes the sensation of
fresh lilacs in the spring. Unlike virtually all other lilac
perfumes, which are reconstructions that contain synthetics, this is
an all-natural composition that gives the impression of lilacs
without the usual photo-realistic aroma found in most of them, and
contains no actual lilac. Instead, the effect is of being in a garden
that has lilacs blooming but which also encompasses the other aromas
of spring – green leaves, wet grass, drifts of scent from other
flowers. It is as fresh and delicate as a rain-drenched panicle of
white lilac blossoms, its beauty even further enhanced by its extrait
de parfum concentration.
It’s not just places that can be conjured up by a fragrance. In the
masterful Memento Mori from Aftelier
Perfumes, natural perfumer Mandy Aftel has advanced
her alchemical art yet again with a stunning creation that is sure to
bring to mind not only familiar places, but a human presence. Just
inhaling the scent from the vial resulted in a swirl of emotions and
half-remembered flickers of the past. I felt as though I had arrived
home on a cold winter night and entered a place filled with warmth;
standing in the doorway of a comfortable old farmhouse filled with
the sweetness of wood smoke and the funky dampness of drying-out wool
coats, the lingering aftermath of baking, and most of all the musky,
physical embrace of a beloved person. It is remarkable how much this
fragrance evokes a living being; if you have ever held a sweater or
robe that belonged to someone you loved and missed and breathed
deeply of it to bring them closer, you have some idea of what Memento
Mori is like. It almost feels too private to wear in public places,
being meant for either solitude or closeness; on skin it gradually
becomes almost unnervingly intimate, like skin-to-skin contact with a
lover, and capable of bringing strong emotions to the surface
unbidden. It is powerful and beautiful, but not in the least pretty.
It may seem strange to ascribe such power to a perfume, but I think
anyone who smells this will fall under the same spell.
Image
credits: Rainy day wallpaper from crafthubs.com; Vintage strawberry
patterned (actual) wallpaper detail from Etsy seller
wallpaperyourworld; “Lilac Party” wallpaper from
desktopnexus.com; lighted doorway at night wallpaper from
desktopimages.com.
Disclosure:
I received free samples from all the perfumers whose perfumes I
reviewed in this post.
Labels: Aether Arts Perfume, Aftelier Perfumes, Artisan perfumery, Donna, DSH Perfumes, en voyage perfumes, natural perfumery |