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Tuesday, January 03, 2006

100% Love by S-Perfume

You know that place between sleep and awake, the place where you can still remember dreaming? That's where I'll always love you, Peter Pan. That's where I'll be waiting.
Tinkerbell, Hook

100% Love is a part of S-Perfume collection, produced by Shaping Room, by their own admission, “the world's smallest fragrance house”. S-Perfume comprises the creations of such celebrated perfumers as Alberto Morillas, Christophe Laudamiel, and Sophia Grojsman. The latter is the nose behind 100% Love, and that came as a surprise to me, because the scent could not be more different from Grojsman’s other perfumes, Paris, Eternity, Tresor, Jaipur, and Yvresse. Where her other creations are bright, heady, lush, “substantial”, 100% Love is incredibly subtle and delicate.

Only a few of my favorite fragrances have been “love at first sniff”; more often than not, it takes several tastings for me to grow to like a scent. 100% Love however was one of those rare cases, where as soon as I smelled it on my skin, I knew I was smitten. Without being quite like anyting I have ever smelled before, 100% Love was familiar and comforting, like coming back to a place I did not remember until now but that was strangely recognizable to me.

100% Love starts on my skin with a wonderfully tart, astringent cranberry accord. It is soon joined by a delicate rose note and a whisper of chocolate. My nose may be completely making it up but I think that there is a myrrh note in 100% Love, among the middle notes. There is often a peppery (Caron Parfum Sacre) or a medicinal (Serge Lutens La Myrrhe) undertone to a myrrh note, but in certain fragrances, like L’Occitane’s new Eau d’Iparie, myrrh smells gently sweet, almost fruity, and this is the accord that my nose picks up in 100% Love. When the drydown comes, the rose note becomes more prominent and the perfume acquires a very slightly powdery smell not unlike that of vintage lipsticks and powders, only much more subtle. 100% Love is a scent of twilight; like another favorite, Jo Malone’s Pomegranate Noir, it manages to be dark and transparent at the same time. It is a childlike and yet strangely ageless and eternal scent of weightless shadows that inhabit the place Tinkerbell describes to Peter Pan, a comfortable, familiar place “between sleep and awake, the place where you can still remember dreaming”.

100% Love is available at, $67.00 for 60ml of Eau de Toilette. According to Now Smell This, an Eau de Parfum version will be available in time for Valentine’s Day. If my Valentine is reading this, he should be making notes.

*The photo of 100% Love is from and is here by a kind permission of S-Perfume.

*The painting is Mysterious Rose Garden by Aubrey Beardsley.


Blogger NowSmellThis said...

M, I am so glad to see 100% Love find another fan. It does seem to be a love-it-or-hate-it, and like you, it was love at first sniff for me, and like you, was surprised to find that it was by Sophia Grojsman. It is very different from her other perfumes. It is so wonderful to find something that is not like anything you've smelled before!

3:46 PM EST  
Blogger katiedid said...

Gah, I feel like SUCH a weirdo. Well, almost. Tania and I are on the same page about this one, at least. To me it's got a ton of body for a fruity-floral. I'd totally call it "substantial," and in fact, in some ways it does strongly remind me of Tresor, in that while not heavy or deeply weighted, it is really full.

3:48 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

R, I love that feeling when I find another scent to love, it is an excitement like to other LOL Especially when it is something I did not exect to love in 1000 years. :-)

4:32 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

K, isn't it funny. I always blame skin chemistry in such cases. The same was true about Rochas Tocade, I think I was the only one who thought it was soft, quiet, toned-down. To other people it was over the top and heady. Go figure.

There is some substantionality to 100% Love, but only in the first part of the drydown, when it smelled a little powdery on me. Other than that it is all ethereal stuff :-)

4:34 PM EST  
Blogger Victoria said...

Can't wait to try the new EDP. Funny although we love something, we always want to find something like it or better.

6:34 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

That is so true. We keep hunting for Holy Grails even though each of us probably has at least one already. For example why do I keep looking for stuff that smells like Feminite du Bois, when I already have and love it? *shrug* I guess that is what keeps the perfume industry alive LOL

9:50 AM EST  

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