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Wednesday, May 31, 2006

Perfume Review: Parfumerie Generale Ligne Chapitre II. Part 2.

My enjoyable excurse through the second Parfumerie Generale collection continues. These are the final four scents in the Ligne Chapitre II.

Hyperessence Matale. Another tea scent in the line, Hyperessence Matale is a more concentrated version of L’Eau Rare Matale from the first collection. I do not have L’Eau Rare Matale to compare the two, but somehow Hyperessence does not strike me as a significantly “stronger”, richer, deeper fragrance. It is certainly a lovely tea scent, spiced up by pepper, brightened by a little citrus; it also has a faint and pleasant jasmine note and a delightful, dry, woody undertone…It is earthy and spicy and dark... Still, I feel as if it is lacking something…I don’t really know what. Perhaps it needs more sparkle, even more depth? I am not sure. Full bottle worthy? Perhaps not. For a tea scent with oomph and character, I would rather opt for Harmatan Noir.

Ilang Ivohibe. Romantic, feminine, vaguely exotic, this fresh fruity floral reminded me a little of Jo Malone’s Nectarine Blossom & Honey. The citrus fruit accord in both fragrances has a delightfully tart, green, under-ripe quality, and the flowers in the top notes of Ilang Ivohibe are as light and transparent as in Malone’s ethereal creation. The similarity ends halfway through the scent, when ylang ylang note gains momentum, becomes headier and sweeter, and when vanilla becomes apparent, bringing a certain ‘thickness” and more sweetness to the composition. The scent never becomes overwhelmingly White Floral and vanilla is never too sweet and overpowering, it is a well blended, very pretty composition…but it just not “me”. Full Bottle Worthy? Probably not, since I would never be able to use up even a 50ml bottle.

Iris Taizo. This was the scent that excited me most, when I first heard about the new collection. Iris, wood, cardamom…how can it possibly not be great? It did not disappoint me. Along with Aomassai, Iris Taizo is my favorite fragrance in Ligne Chapitre II and perhaps in the whole line. The first accord in Iris Taizo is a truly magical, intoxicating mix of incense, balm and honey. The cardamom brings that wonderful, sweet, velvety piquancy, for which I adore this note so much, and eventually the star note, iris, appears in all its rooty-earthy-floral-honeyed glory. Enriched by incense, wood and spices, this is perhaps one of the most luxurious, stunning iris scents I have encountered. Full bottle worthy? Oh yes!

Jardin de Kerylos. Fresh, dry, summery fig scent accented by sycamore, I assume it might have been named after Villa Grecque Kerylos built in early 20th century on Cote d’Azur by archaeologist Theodore Reinach to resemble an authentic residence from ancient Greece. Jardin de Kerylos most certainly succeeds in making one think about the sea and the sun and the endless blue sky of a summer spent in a beautiful white villa surrounded by the lusciously green trees…It is an enjoyably linear, uncomplicated and uncluttered fig fragrance that evokes all aspects of figs, from the bark of the tree, to the leaves, to the sweet fruits themselves. Full bottle worthy? It is a gorgeous scent and will most probably delight the lovers of figs in perfume, but I am not a big fan of the note and, although I liked the scent, I probably would never need a big bottle.

The verdict on the second collection? I liked all, loved two (Brulure de Rose and Harmatan Noir) and absolutely adored two more (Iris Taizo and Aomassai). The fragrances are undeniably well-done; they are satisfyingly rich and most are quite complex and ever so slightly strange, without being hard to wear. Quite honestly, I am once again rather smitten with this very interesting perfume line.

The fragrances are available in Parfumerie Generale's online store. Unlike the first eight scents, these are not sold in individual 7ml “micro-flacons”, but it is possible to buy them as a set of 7ml bottles, for €60.00. The full size bottles retail for €75.00-€135.00 depending on the scent and the size. The line is also availabe at The Perfume Shoppe in Canada, they do ship to the US.

The images are from



Anonymous Anonymous said...

oooh, these new ligne generale scents just seem fabolous to me (and your intriguing reviews are definitely the ones to blame ;)). I would just like to have them all in front of me and smell, smell, smell to my heart's desire... I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like all of them, maybe even none (although that is hardly possible, I suppose, even though our tastes differ quite significantly in certain aspects), but just the idea... dear M, thank you for another wonderful trip for my imagination :).

3:47 AM EDT  
Blogger marchlion said...

Crawling out from under my rock to admit I've never tried any of this line, which is beginning to look like a significant oversight ... using your Marina/March Venn Diagram, which of these do you think I'd like? Thanks.

8:33 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Among the 15 scents (from the "old" collection) there has got to be at least one you will like, I am positive about it. :-)

9:27 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Please don't blame me if you don't like it...but...I pretty sure you will at least like if not love it. What's not to like, right? Rose is there, loukoum-ish undertone is there...I think it's a winner!

9:28 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I am not sure...sometimes we find the same scents swoon-worthy, sometimes ...well, sometimes not. :-)
Although it is from the previous collection, I'd still recommen Yuzu Ab Irato, which I think you'd like. Also, Harmatan Noir...
They are all worthy at least a try, that's for sure!

9:31 AM EDT  
Blogger Sexy Sadie said...

Why is there so many lovely fragranses when I am broke?

11:07 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Good question, Sadie! I often wonder myself, why is life so cruel?? *sigh*

11:09 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I will be waiting for the reviews when your sampler pack arrives!

12:05 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I liked Aomassia the most too. Wore it several times and was extremely enjoyable, even in this weather we have here now. I need a bottle of that, definitely. :-)

12:06 PM EDT  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

Must get to work trying the rest of these, M, they all sound very tempting.

12:48 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

can't wait to hear what you think. I am especially curious to know whether you like the fig scent. You are much more of a fan an expert where that note is concerned than I am

12:50 PM EDT  
Blogger Caitlin Shortell said...

I echo Sadie's question, having just learned that I must buy myself a new driveway this week I certainly shouldn't be buying any more perfume. The shock and horror of if makes me want to soothe the pain with fragrance purchases. Hehe. Truly mad, I am.

8:43 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

In my book, that is completely normal. :-)
I am sorry about your driveway though!

8:56 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I look forward to sniffing these babies.

4:11 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

They are totally sniff-worthy :-)

8:30 AM EDT  
Blogger tmp00 said...

And on the other wrist....

At frist blush, Iris Taizo does not do as much for me. On me the Iris is a bit overwhelmed by the cardamom (note that I love, btw). Then the Iris strikes back, along with just the right amount of honeyed wood and incense. Completely different and less showy than Aomassai, but just as compelling. Brilliant!

7:39 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Yay! I am so glad you like it!

7:53 PM EDT  
Blogger tmp00 said...

oh my- it's a couple of hours later, and Iris Taizo has made a late-in-the-race run for the finish line with a wonderfully dirty bit of musky amber with a whiff of iris. i can't decide which is better- the slighty musky, buttery creaminess on my left wrist, or the good-girl gone wonderfully bad Iris on my right...another full bottle needed! Perfume Circe strikes again!

10:00 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

He he he

My job here is done! :-)

10:02 PM EDT  

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