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Thursday, June 26, 2008

Perfume Review: Micallef Vanille Aoud

I am rarely in a mood for vanilla. I am always in a mood for a fragrance that is masterfully built on an interesting contrast. In Micallef's Vanille Aoud, the contrast is announced right in the name. The sweet, milky innocence of vanilla is juxtaposed with the dry, dark sensuality of aoud. Vanilla turns aoud into a mouthwatering delicacy, while aoud turns vanilla into "the little deadly demon among the wholesome" vanillas.

It is a very simple scent, all there is to it are two accords intertwining: one toffee-like, creamy and childish, the other slightly spicy, woody and the very opposite of innocent. A touch of citrus adds fresh tangyness to the blend that otherwise could have been too sweet. I would compare Vanille Aoud to a less saccharine and much lighter Matin Calin mixed with oud. It is a "not a girl not yet a woman" kind of perfume, the kind to which one feels almost ashamed to be attracted and yet can't help but be enthralled.

This Dolores Haze of a scent seems to be one of the newest Micallef creations and will be available at Luckyscent in the near future.

Image source is unknown, and I would be grateful if somebody could tell me who is the author of this photo of Natalya Vodyanova.

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Blogger elle said...

Hmmm...."the little deadly demon among the wholesome" - how could I possibly resist adding this to my awkwardly growing collection of gourmands? :-)
That's a perfect Lolita image of NV.

10:15 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ах ты Гумберта... )

10:26 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Mine is also awkward and is also growing at a slow but still scary scale :-)

10:27 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Я в восхищении :-), что ты опознал коннотации.

10:28 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ну уж, прямо обижаешь меня! )

10:30 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Ну недооценила, недооценила :-)

10:32 PM EDT  
Blogger Alyssa said...

You are all about the aouds -- and in the middle of summer! Love the Lolita metaphor...

How does it compare to White Aoud?

10:34 PM EDT  
Blogger Flora said...

Dare I hope that my local boutique will be carrying these new Micallefs? I am pretty sure I will really like this one! I adore both vanilla and oud, so I am eager to experience the combination.

1:36 AM EDT  
Blogger lilybp said...

Well, you have persuaded me that I will have to try Micallef Note Vanillee, but this is clearly not for me.:)

6:46 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

With word verification "SILWS", your Vanille Aoud is clearly calling out to me ! Must try it. I love MM's Note Vanille and it's on my forever growing birthday wish list + I am a big oud fan, so this sounds like an irresistible combo. I don't think I no longer qualify as a vanilla hater since there are at least 3 ones I lust after (SDV, Le Labo's and Note Vanille): what is happening to me !!!???

7:11 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I think this sounds delicious. I know this is sacriligious (or something) but all I get in 'White Aoud' is the dry medicinal note, I can't seem to detect the flowers at all. Maybe I'm anosmic to something in the blend. I find it comforting on occsion, but often a little too stark for my tastes. This, on the other hand, might be right up my alley - with a touch of vanillic sweetness to contrast with the aoud.

8:49 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

It is not rose-heavy like white aoud, is "lighter" in feel and less oudy.

9:09 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

i think you will love it and I hope they do carry it!

9:10 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I don't think it is for you either, but NV is a must try because of its smokiness.

9:11 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

That was a sign! :-)
Whatever is it that is happening to you is happening to me too. Scary stuff :-)

9:11 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I think that, if White Oud was too oud heavy for you (which is what, I believe, the dry medicinal thing is), then this might really suit you much better.

9:12 AM EDT  
Blogger tmp00 said...

I think I may have found my godchild's b-day gift!

10:59 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

How old is she turning? I think it might be perfect for any age though, 12 to 112 :-)

11:28 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Want. Micallef is a bit of a step out of my price range & I was lucky enough to find a split of Note Vanille. It's gorgeous on me in winter. The contrast of this one sounds right up my alley; I love bittersweet things & have a feeling this would appeal even more.

11:43 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I wore Note Vanille the other day, in the heat, it was wonderful too.

11:50 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hm, Marinochka, you said it's less oudy than my beloved "white oud" - than it's not for me... (I can't get enough of oud... - off to Oxford Street !)

12:09 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Then this really won't be oudy enough for you. Have fun at Oxford St.! :-)

12:38 PM EDT  
Blogger Ducks said...

Oh, this sounds so gorgeous. I must try it. I'm back on a vanilla kick again. :)

1:18 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I am confident that you will love it. :-)

1:20 PM EDT  
Blogger Beth Schreibman Gehring said...

Milky vanilla and roses.......reminds me of a yummy Persian dessert that a foreign student from Iran used to ply me with. Between that and pistaschio nougat with roses I am a goner. Most delicious and that picture is spectacularly sexy. What a good review.....Thanks , I've been starving all day!

4:36 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I've been starving too, don't know why.

4:41 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Sounds wonderful!

As for the photo of Natalia, it is the editorial: "Republican Party"
W Magazine, July 2002 issue
Photographer Bruce Weber.

By the way, there is a very interesting film (in Russian) about Vodianova:


5:24 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

thank you, so great! :-)

5:27 PM EDT  

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