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Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Profumum Volo AZ 686: Perfume Review

Named for the Alitalia flight from Rome to Caracas, Volo AZ 686 blends "the scent from coconut palms and flowers of thousand colors, the swings of a hammock and a cocktail in my hand" (from In other words, les vacances in a bottle.

Scents about summer vacations are many. Gardenia perfumes are not. Especially not those that offer such a multifaceted interpretation of the aroma. The composition starts with coconut and vanilla, about which we are warned by the list of notes, and I suppose they are necessary in both the gardenia and "exotic journey" perfume. They do serve nicely as a cuddly cushion to soften the impact of what comes next. And next comes something strikingly mentholated, a note chilly and sharp, in a manner that I find very appealing. Think Tubereuse Criminelle. To enhance the edgy effect, the flowers here have a distinctly rubbery quality, a characteristic that is simultaneously urban and organic-mineral. Volo AZ 686 takes its time to get to this final rubbery gardenia accord on the skin, it unfolds slowly, making sure all layers of the blend are noticed.

Because of the menthol and the rubber, this is probably a perfume that either really works with one's chemistry or clashes with it dramatically. Because of the subversive, dark and resolutely non-girly side of the scent (the side that dominates the mix, unlike the brief coconut-vanilla cliché in the top notes), men could and should wear this gardenia.

Available at luckyscent, $240.00 for 100ml.

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Anonymous Anonymous said...

The poster is perfect! Another great description.

I loved the sample, and am now smart enough to order a second sample before committing. Good thing. The second one was far more rubbery and sharp. My chemistry is fickle. I'll have to try it again, though. It wasn't too coconutty.

11:02 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

And I wouldn't mind even more rubber :-) But yes, thank goodness it is not too coconutty.

11:03 PM EDT  
Blogger elle said...

Must go digging through my samples and retry this. I've been reluctant to spend too much time w/ my Profumum samples for fear of falling in love w/ more of them - I'm head over heels for both versions of Santalum and Fumidus and I'm finding myself more and more drawn to Thundra. I wish they would come in 50 ml bottles. I can always justify something under $200, but over that and I have to put a lot of effort into convincing myself it's worth it. This one, however, sounds mesmerizingly wonderful.

11:18 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I don't remember Fumidus. And it's probably for the better :-) What do you think of their Olibanum?

11:19 PM EDT  
Blogger Flora said...

Hmmm, I don't know about all that rubber, maybe I will stick with Tubereuse Criminelle's gasoline. It's an aroma I have always liked anyway.

12:10 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

If you do like the menthol thing, you should still try this, maybe rubber won't make appearance for you.

9:47 AM EDT  
Anonymous Lavanya said...

I am slightly put off by the thought of the 'coconut vanilla' top but you sold it to me with the 'Think of Tubereuse Criminelle'..Will have to try it..

2:06 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

The top is short-lived, at least on my skin.

2:07 PM EDT  
Anonymous Tara C said...

This was a real shocker - smelled like a urinal cake with all that menthol. I couldn't get past that and scrubbed this off. I much prefer Thundra, Fumidus, Ambra Aurea and Olibanum.

5:13 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Oh I am sorry. And I really need to try Fumidus again!

10:08 PM EDT  
Anonymous Tara C said...

Be warned that Fumidus has a heavy dose of birch tar in the top notes.. I have found that it is better dabbed than sprayed, and don't overdo it. It's wonderful but must be handled judiciously.

6:58 PM EDT  

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