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Wednesday, December 23, 2009

3 Orrises

If the Magi's gifts were strictly fragrance ingredients, and the event of gift-bearing was taking place today, there would have to be some additions, reformulations and re-interpretations. It would go something like this: amber standing in for gold as a symbol of friendship (replacing kingship as not sufficiently egalitarian) frankincense as a symbol of non-denominational spirituality (in the name of political correctness), myrrh as a symbol of eternity (can't have death, too morbid), orris as a symbol of understated luxury and oud as a symbol of jumping on the bandwagon.

I will go all numerological on you, and "analyze" 3 recent orris scents on the basis of 5 super-objective and scientific criteria (in all seriousness, these are the questions which I am asking myself, when I am smelling an orris-themed perfume):
1. How strongly/recognizably orrisy does it smell?
2. Is it more iris-orrisy or violet-orrisy?
3. Is it woody or floral?
4. Is it powdery?
5. How expensive does it smell?
Cartier L'Heure Promise, from the brand's exclusive collection, Les Heures du Parfum.
1. How strongly/recognizably orrisy does it smell? - At first- fairly recognizably; the orris-ness dissipates in a couple of seconds to give way to the pastel-green, powdery-translucent floralcy in feeling not unlike that of Apres L'Ondee or L'Eau d'Hiver
2. Is it more iris-orrisy or violet-orrisy? - To me, it smells more like first violets might, probably before they even unfolded their petals.
3. Is it woody or floral? - Floral more than woody, but with distinct woodiness.
4. Is it powdery? - Somewhat, in a gauzy, delicate way.
5. How expensive does it smell? - Not particularly. It has the kind of simplicity about it, which, even though it, objectively speaking, might be complex and expensive to produce, does not make one (me) feel justified to spend a lot to buy it.
Conclusion: L'Heure Promise was to me the best of the Les Heures. Which is not saying that much, because, although all the scents have an elegant, quality feel, they fall rather flat for me and seem somehow like renditions of themes I've smelled many times before.

Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d'Iris, from yet another exclusive series, Collection Extraordinaire.
1. How strongly/recognizably orrisy does it smell? - Not very, in a sense that, for the sake of the concept, it chooses to focus on the woody aspect of the multi-faceted orris note, thus sacrificing other qualities.
2. Is it more iris-orrisy or violet-orrisy? - Neither. It is woody.
3. Is it woody or floral? -There are no flowers. The composition is all about wood, wood, labdanum, a touch of peppery incense and more wood.
4. Is it powdery? - It has a touch of powder, made of very, very finely grated wood.
5. How expensive does it smell? - Fairly. Because it appears to be choke-full of precious wood. Have I used the word "wood" enough times? Because this thing is woody!
Conclusion: I was not in any way excited by the fragrances in Collection Extraordinaire, and Bois d'Iris was no exception. Like its siblings, it is well done, but it is...boring, to me. As for the orris... if you are looking for a velvety yet dry, high quality woody perfume, go no further. If you are looking for orris, you might consider...

Irisss by Xerjoff, a new to me and molto lussuoso Italian line.
1. How strongly/recognizably orrisy does it smell? - Very. It is orris from start to, eventually, couple days later, because this thing lasts... finish
2. Is it more iris-orrisy or violet-orrisy? - Definitely iris-orrisy. Not in an earthy-natural, dry-silky way, in which Iris Pallida or Hiris are irisy. This perfume is creamy, velvety, substantial, perfumey, although not as perfumey as the aldehydic Iris Poudre.
3. Is it woody or floral? - It's both. It showcases well these two sides of orris/iris, choosing not to focus on the non-refined earthy side of it.
4. Is it powdery? - Yes. But not overwhelmingly so. The creaminess of ylang (I assume) and woods balances the powderiness.
5. How expensive does it smell? - Molto! The question to ask here, quoting Pretty Woman, would be, exactly how obscene an amount of money are we talking about? Just profane, or really offensive? And the answer would be, really offensive. Borderline New Russian and/or Real Housewife of Whatever offensive. There is a certain chic about this decadently luxurious composition, something in the refined floral note, perhaps, which does not let the scent overstep the border between Elegantly Expensive and Nouveau Riche, but only just about. Irisss is hanging by a well-groomed, glossy hair over the abyss of furs, 10-carat pink diamonds, Maybachs and Louis Vuitton logos.
Conclusion: Beautiful. Sumptuous. Long-lasting. Screams luxury. Costs €590.00 for 15ml or €1.625,00 in a fancy Murano flacon!.. Ouch. The price aside, however, this is the orris scent that I liked the most in the sea of orris scents from the last couple of years.

Image source, Xerjoff.

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Anonymous Marian said...

MY darling magi gave me a sample of the exquisite Irisss, as well as some other extraordinarily precious orris scents. She is the kindest, most generous orris fairy an iris-lover could possibly hope for. To MY magi, and to the magi's loved ones, a very Merry and love-filled Christmas!

10:59 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

Well, if she was a good magi, she'd bring you those them rare jasmines and right size containers :-)

11:11 PM EST  
Blogger lovethescents said...

Oh how fun! Love the way you presented this too. To top it off, you have me laughing at "New Russian" offensive. Thanks for making my morning :-)

8:30 AM EST  
Anonymous dissed said...

*hides eyes*

Okay, I'm sticking to Iris Silver Mist and Hiris. And that's final.

8:53 AM EST  
Blogger StyleSpy said...

What a great review, M! I haven't really explored Orris World yet. You're giving me the hankering.

9:48 AM EST  
Blogger Mals86 said...

Seriously gorgeous bottles in the picture. I'm not (at this stage) a fan of iris-focused scents, preferring it as a background note, as in most of the Chanels, where it gives everything that touch of cool satin.

But you're tempting me.

9:56 AM EST  
Blogger elle said...

Am glad to see I was not the only one who wasn't wildly enthused about the Cartier's Les Heures or VC&A's Collection Extraordinaire. But Xerjoff's - "molto lussuoso" indeed! Pure deliciousness, but I clearly erred in choosing a low tax bracket career path. :-( However, if I do finally decide to toss ethics to the wind and embark upon a life of crime, they will be quite near the top of my list of things upon which to spend my ill gotten gains.

5:23 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

I am glad it made you laugh :-)

5:25 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

Well, those two are lovely, ISM is just sublime.

5:26 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

Ah, love the ruby stilettos on your pic.

5:26 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

"A touch of cool satin". Love the way you put it!

5:27 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

If you do, I am joining your Famiglia :-)

5:28 PM EST  
Blogger ScentScelf said...

Oh, shame shame shame. I mean, thanks for being straight up...but those Irisss decimals are in the wrong place for my budget, dangnabit! ;)

I love iris, so thoroughly that I can even approach an aldehyde through its door--Iris Poudre, I'm looking at you. But, unless WW up there makes it to and happens to sprinkle a little Italian stardust to the west, methinks I'll continue to huff on the iris that current haunt my shelves.

BTW, I do hope that *something* special ends up in your stocking... Best of holidays to you, M.

11:06 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

I wouldn't rely on WW to spread stardust quite so generously. But you never know, 'tis the season of miracles :-)
Wishing you very happy holidays!

11:15 AM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...


5:11 PM EST  
Blogger Flora said...

That Irisss sounds wonderful, but Iris/Orris is not my personal HG of perfume, so I am not mourning the price tag. Of course, if I tried this, I might change my mind about Iris in general...

6:10 PM EST  

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