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Wednesday, November 23, 2005

Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits


“Le bois, vivants et organique, fixe le caractère de mes parfums” (wood, alive and organic, fixes the character of my perfumes), said Serge Lutens. Shiseido’s Féminité du Bois, the grand woody oriental scent of 1990s, was Lutens’s ode to cedarwood and the inspiration for his Les Eaux Boisées, Bois Oriental, Bois et Musc, Bois de Violette, and Bois et Fruits. These four variations of Féminité du Bois each juxtapose cedar with a different accord: vanilla, musk, violet, and fruits. Les Eaux Boisées are my favorite part of Les Salons du Palais Royal collection, and of them, Bois et Fruits is the most beloved.

Bois et Fruits combines cedar with notes of peach, apricot, figs, and plums, and thus emphasizes the fruity side of its “Great Mother”, Féminité du Bois. Having said that, Bois et Fruits is actually much drier and less sweet than Féminité. It starts with a dry cedar note, within seconds the ripe fruitiness of figs and plums becomes apparent, the fruits balance the dryness of the woods and cedar keeps the potentially excessive sweetness of fruits in check. The overall effect to my nose is that of dried fruits mixed with a slightly incensy, sometimes even almost leathery accord. Bois et Fruits is a subtler scent, it is much less forceful than Féminité du Bois, and even though it has fruits in its title, it actually translates much less fruity on my skin that its predecessor. I always imagine that Bois et Fruits is the scent of Paradise, or at least of the woodier, wilder part of the Garden of Eden.

Bois et Fruits is available exclusively at Les Salons du Palais Royal in Paris, where it retails for EUR 100 for 75ml.

*The painting is The Golden Serpent by Michael Parkes.

16 Comments:

Blogger katiedid said...

OMG, I *love* the image you chose. This artist is new to me, or at least with my bad memory, he is. Wow. I need to look into his work.

Have not tried Bois et Fruits, but then I am trying very hard, though not entirely successfully, not to discover the Paris-only stuff lest I fall in love with it ;)

9:04 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

I am glad you like it! I only recently discovered parkes myself. Here is one link to paintings
http://www.piersidegallery.com/artists/parkes/

Good luck with not discovering paris-only stuff :-) I wish I never smelled some of those...

9:26 AM EST  
Blogger katiedid said...

Oh! I do know him! I worked with some of his older lithos and glicees that I recall finding vaguely interesting but nothing noteworthy at the time. Looks like his newer stuff is much more compelling, and it appears I did overlook some older pieces. Thanks for the link, M, I appreciate it.

9:45 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

You are very welcome. That sounds like a very interesting job you had!

9:47 AM EST  
Blogger ParisLondres said...

I love the image you chose too!
This is one of favourite SL perfume and though I reach for it rarely, I really enjoy it when I wear this.

The other i adore is Bois de Violette.
:)

10:25 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

I haven't tried Bois de Violette yet. I imagine I am going to love it as much as other Boisees. So far there really was only one Lutens scent that I dind't like (La Myrrhe), his fragrance seem to work for me.

10:50 AM EST  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

Nope, not this one either, even though it is less sweet & dark.

10:51 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

You are hard to please R, you are! :-) Is there a Boisee scent that you like? Bois de Violette maybe?

11:05 AM EST  
Blogger boisdejasmin said...

My favourite is still Bois de Violette. Bois et Fruits has a tendency of turning into a huge powdery fig on some days. I still think that FdB is a much better rendition on this fruit-cedar theme. However, I have and enjoy both.

12:02 PM EST  
Blogger Cait Shortell said...

This is my FAVORITE of the SL boix. Thank you for your review.
I had an unmarked vial of it that I sampled in the dark depths of the Alaskan winter. I found it uplifted my mood enormously. I had to become a sleuth (read conspicuous consumer) to find out which one it was. When I made my escape to Paris, I immediately purchased the bell shaped bottle. It is divine. Sufferers of seasonal affective disorder should be prescribed Bois et Fruits.

12:18 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

I love both too. Bois et Fruits is drier, less intense, so it is a little more versatile to me. But I couldn't live without my Feminite.

12:24 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Cait, this is my favourite of the Boix too! (not that I would turn down a bell jar of say Bois et Musc). I imagine scents like Bois et Fruits and Feminite de Bois, all woody orientals really, would be just the thing during the long cold Alaskan winters.

12:26 PM EST  
Blogger Cait Shortell said...

Colombina,
You are correct. I too, love all the boix for our winter, but bois et fruits has the highest cheer quotient. Today I chose Arabie because we are adrift in snow. Thanks again, I really like your blog.

12:54 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

"The highest cheer quotient"- I like that!! :-)

1:20 PM EST  
Blogger mireille said...

C ... Happy Thanksgiving! And thank you for these great posts ... I love the scents you choose and the way you write about them. xoxo

10:24 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Happy Thanksgiving to you too M! And thank you very much!

10:34 PM EST  

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