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Thursday, February 09, 2006

Perfume Review: Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Or des Indes

Or des Indes is a scent that seems to be undeservedly underappreciated, it is rarely mentioned and discussed and yet it is one of the most exquisite, well-blended and enjoyable Orient-inspired fragrances. It is a scent that I never want to be without. If for some unfathomable reason I had to give up all my perfumes and choose only one for the rest of my life (oh the horror of such a scenario!), I believe I would choose Or des Indes. Yes, I would have opted for it instead of my beloved Bois des Iles and Féminité du Bois. Or des Indes is one of those rare scents that are always wearable, it does not have quirks, it is always smooth, always comforting, forever a pleasure to wear. Even though it was allegedly inspired by the palaces of Maharajas and all things sumptuous and opulent, it is actually a rather understated, soft, although still undoubtedly rich and ornamented, scent. Thus, while it is of course infinitely pleasurable and warming in autumn and winter, it is also not at all overwhelming in warm weather.

The notes listed for Or des Indes are opoponax, vanilla, amber, geranium and I do smell all of them on my skin, apart from, thankfully, geranium. The accord that is also very prominent to my nose and is not among the official notes is cinnamon. I find the note irresistible when it is incorporated into the composition as it is here, unobtrusively blended with other notes, not overwhelming but adding the sweet spiciness to the scent. Or des Indes is smooth and enveloping, like a light-brown wrap made of a material more exotic, precious and soft than cashmere, ornamented with intricate golden and maroon designs. It also, rather bizarrely, reminds me of a -as far as I know- non-existent dish made of semolina and cinnamon, a warm, sweet, spicy and comforting concoction to sustain and raise one’s spirits.

Or des Indes is available at Lusciouscargo, $105.00 for 3,4oz.

37 Comments:

Blogger Atreau said...

Oooh that sounds good. I can't remember if I've tested this or not. The entire MPG line isn't talked about much, perhaps if the scents came in more attractive bottles?

10:39 PM EST  
Blogger Patty said...

Wow, this sounds gorgeous. I'm definitely going to try it. Never can lay off the cinnamon.

11:21 PM EST  
Blogger ParisLondres said...

Great review dear M!
I used to like MPG creations a while ago and then a few of the bottles turned within a few months of purchasing them. Now I am wary of buying those large bottles. BTW - they do make/sell lovely gloves. :)

4:04 AM EST  
Blogger lilyofbp said...

I just discovered this recently and was wearing it last night! Now, with your inspirtation, I may put it on again today! A great scent--and a great review!

7:39 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

S,
For such a prolific fragrance line, MPG is so rarely talked about. Yet, they do have some lovely scents. Another one I like is Magnolia Pourpre. Their Rose Muskissime is very pretty. Rose Opulente can give Sa Majeste La Rose a run for its money :-)

I agree about bottles. Those big fake "jewels" look, well, fake :-)

8:45 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Patty,
I cannot resist cinnamon in perfume. Especially when it is done tastefully like here.

8:46 AM EST  
Blogger Christina H. said...

I love oriental fragrances but somehow this one has escaped me.To tell you the truth,I haven't tried any of the MPG fragrances except Bahiana and Secrete Datura(which I like).I must give this a try and explore the many other scents they have to offer.I wonder why this line does seem to get overlooked alot?

8:48 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Thank you dear N!
That is what I am always afraid of with huge bottles like that- that they will turn. Also, if they sold smaller bottles, surely it would bring more customers.
I saw the gloves on their site-*sigh* :-)

8:49 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

J,
I find Or des Indes very easy to wear, any time and in any amount. I love that. It is a scent I come to when I don't know what I want to wear :-)

8:50 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Christina,
I think this is definitely something you might like. I would also highly recommend their rose scents and Magnolia Pourpre.

I could never understand either, why MPG is overlooked like that.

I also like their Secrete Datura (more than Lutens's Datura actually).

8:53 AM EST  
Anonymous gingele said...

Dear Colombina, than you again for putting this fantastic fragrance in the spotlight where she belongs! Fortunately Or Des Indes will forgive me my dalliances each and every time I return to her warm embrace.

9:49 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Gingele, hi and welcome! Or des Indes is patient and forgiving with me too. She knows, I always come back :-)

9:55 AM EST  
Blogger boisdejasmin said...

I must say that I cannot wear any of MPGs because of their heavy musky base, and I have little recollection of Or des Indes. As for your semolina and cinnamon dish, such thing does exist as an Indian snack. In some parts it is made with cardamom as flavouring, but in others cinnamon is used. New Jean Patou Sira des Indes is inspired by it.

11:26 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Mmm... how wonderful.

And I will definitely try Sira de Indes now.

11:31 AM EST  
Blogger Victoria said...

I must resniff this! Great review!

11:48 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Thank you Victoria!

11:56 AM EST  
Blogger Cait Shortell said...

Yum! This sounds heavenly, Marina. Thanks for the review. I loved the way you imagined the fabric and dessert it evokes. It's like the scent summoned them into existence for you. I also know of a semolina dessert, but it's middle eastern and often soaked in honey and rosewater. You could make it with orange flower water and cinnamon, too, though.I will get you a recipe! I love the MPG fragrances and was sad to see them unappreciated. I also love the bottles. Always one for a shiny bauble, I am. Got to find some of this Or des Indes now.

12:20 PM EST  
Blogger Cait Shortell said...

Recipes, on the double:

http://www.akiskitchen.ca/recipes_pastries/halva_lent/halva_lent_1.html for the one with cinnamon

and the one I was thinking of is called Basboosa and it's delicious:
http://www.arabicslice.com/basboosa.html

12:29 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Cait,
Thank you!! I am drooling now, looking at the recipes. Yum.

Since you might be looking for Or des Indes, here is a site that sells 15ml bottles (in case you don't want the whole 3,4oz vat :-)) Warning though- the seller is rather slow to deliver, but he does deliver eventually:

http://aesthetic11.com/html/maitre_parfumeur.htm

12:59 PM EST  
Blogger Victoria said...

I've bought from that seller on eBay, I almost forgot about them. I might just have to go for the small size. So convenient.
:O)

1:38 PM EST  
Anonymous ana said...

I tried the MPG line a few years ago, and i do remember the rose opulente perfume the most...
thanks for the review ..i will give it a try

1:40 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Victoria,
Did you have troubles with him? It took a while for my order to arrive. I ordered some samples from him recently, if they arrive in good time, I will risk ordering a bottle or two. :-)

1:45 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Ana,
I think Rose Opulente is a beautiful scent, along the lines of Ce Soir ou Jamais and Sa Majeste la Rose.

1:46 PM EST  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

A lovely review for a scent I have never tried. It doesn't sound like me, though, does it?

3:05 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Hmmm...
I don't think you'd fall madly in love with it, R. But I don't think you'd dislike it either. :-)

4:02 PM EST  
Blogger marchlion said...

Dangit! ... now I'm covered in Wild Woods and Fifi Chachnil (don't try this at home, people) and I have to wait for a die-down to test this! Maybe I could put some on my knee...

4:14 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

LOL

Why not try this at home? I have both at hand right here...do I dare?...well, maybe next time. I am all covered in Wenge in Labdanum now.

How's Wild Woods? And even more importantly- how's Fifi??

4:54 PM EST  
Blogger marchlion said...

I love that word. Wenge. I like to say it out loud. Labdanum, however, sounds like a medical word for some anatomical part.

I am so pleased with the Wild Woods I am shocked. I've already saved my thoughts for the next Candy post. Can't say about Le Feef -- P's working on a top secret post (ssshhhhh!) But speaking of cinnamon -- didn't it smell very cinnamon-y to you?

5:19 PM EST  
Blogger Victoria said...

I don't remember them being slow.
But it's been awhile. You know they also sell 2ml samples on eBay.
:O)

6:24 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

March,
Wild Woods is shockingly good, isn't it?

Cant't wait for your and P's reviews!

As for Labdanum, it smells better than it sounds. But I will say no more. I am working on a top scret post too :-P

7:34 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Victoria,
The other store (not on Ebay) sells samples too and...*whispers*...S&H is free !

7:37 PM EST  
Blogger lilyofbp said...

I bought from the ebay seller you mentioned and had some problems. I originally emailed him re: shipping and handling and received no reply. Then, I waited 2 months for my order--nothing! I sent emails, pleaded with him--nothing (according to his feedback he had filled similar orders during this time period). Finally, I gave up and filed a complaint--my first and only (it was not for much money, but I was annoyed at the lack of reply). All of a sudden, he refunded my money, and sent me something anyway. I rescinded my complaint, and added to my feedback. Looking at the feedback, I would say there are many people who had similar experiences. I guess he is honest but having problems. And I really don't think I would have heard from him had I not filed a complaint.

8:44 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Judith,
I had the same situation with that seller. He refunded and sent some extra goodies. Next time I ordered from him (yeah, I did :-)), the samples took a little longer to arrive than I would have liked (I am an impatient buyer :-)), but they arrived. Still, I am hesitant to buy anything costlier than samples from him.

10:38 PM EST  
Anonymous Sexy Sadie said...

Privjet.

Otjen intersno.

2:50 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Sadie,
Privet i bolshoe spasibo!

2:52 PM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi, it's Maximina :) Checking out your blog for the first time! Or des Indes is totally my HOLY GRAIL of nighttime fragrances and it leaves the loveliest scent on my scarf if I wear it the night before. It is a beautiful, sexy, womanly perfume and I simply cannot get enough of it. My most treasured bottle. I couldn't agree more that it's highly underrated, but I don't mind one bit as it's my little secret :)

11:21 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Hi, A! *waves*
You are right, if no one knows about it- more for us!! :-)

10:08 AM EST  

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