Perfume review: Le Labo Jasmine 17

Le Labo is the new fragrance line, the originality of which consists in the fact that the fragrances are mixed when you purchase the scents (maturated essential oil is mixed with alcohol and water). The most exciting aspect of Le Labo to me is the perfumers who created the maturated oils: Alberto Morillas, Annick Menardo, Daphne Bugey, Frank Voelkl, Françoise Caron, Michel Almairac, Mark Buxton, and Maurice Roucel. Jasmine 17 is one of the two Roucel’s creations for the line (you can read my review of the other scent, Ciste 18, here). Jasmine 17 was meant to be “a modern alternative to the old-fashioned traditional floral signatures.” According to Le Labo, “the short formula” gives Jasmine 17 “such a distinctive character that once you wear it you’ll never forget it”. I am not entirely sure about the “distinctive character”. Jasmine 17 is yet another variation on the “floral and vanilla” theme, and even though the rendition is subtle, delicate and truly lovely, once again I am reminded of a host of similar fragrances, among them Black Orchid by Susanne Lang and even, in a way, Songes by Annick Goutal. Jasmine 17 is more understated than either and has a certain genteel, quietly feminine feel to it. The scent seems to be asking to be worn with a flowing white dress, lace gloves and a white umbrella. As for the notes, jasmine and orange blossom are most prominent to my nose, accompanied but never overshadowed by the ubiquitous vanilla. The fragrance does not undergo much development on my skin, yet there is a lot of charm in this seemingly simple blend. Jasmine 17 is perhaps not big bottle worthy for me, but I might obtain one of Le Labo’s 15ml bottles, wear the scent in summer and feel like a refined, gracious lady from the 1900s. Jasmine 17 is available at Le Labo boutique, $45.00-$180.00. * The image is from Lelabofragrances.com. The painting is Walk on the Beach by Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida, from Easyart.com.