Perfume Review: Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir
Orris Noir is the latest and much anticipated (by me anyway) Ormonde Jayne fragrance. The name is said to have been inspired by Black Iris (Iris Nigricans), the symbol of Jordan. The scent has notes of davana, pink pepper, coriander, bergamot, iris, jasmine, pimento berries, bay, incense, myrrh, patchouli, cedar and gaiac wood.
Ina, thanks to whom I have been able to sample Orris Noir, has already done an excellent review of the scent. Like her, I must report the rather startling lack of any noir-ness in Orris Noir. There is nothing particularly dark about this fragrance and it is not an iris-heavy scent, at least on my skin. Its beginning makes me think, rather incongruously, about baked apples. These apples are either unripe or else they are sprinkled with some very green-smelling herbs; there is no sweetness here at all. What there is however is a slight booziness, as if some liquor (again, not a sweet kind) was used to make this dish. When I went to consult my H&R Guide to Fragrance Ingredients about the davana note, however, this is what the esteemed book told me: davana oil has “sweet, herbaceous (!) odor, somewhat tea-like, reminiscent of dried fruit (!!) and displaying a slight whisky note (!!!)". I guess my image of boozy-green baked apples wasn’t that bizarre after all.
After a while, the apples, the herbs and the whisky go away; coriander becomes quite apparent as well as jasmine; the scent, which was rather soft at the beginning, grows a little stronger, becomes a little more forceful. Yet when I start to think that perhaps now finally it will show its noir side, the fragrance settles into a very pleasant but again rather soft, understated drydown of gentle woods, powdery iris and quite a lot of velvety myrrh.
Orris Noir is a quiet, tasteful, smoothly-blended scent; I like it a lot, but I don’t love it. It leaves me rather cold, and to be honest a little bit disappointed that it isn’t a little more striking, that it doesn’t have a little more oomph and character.
As far as I can tell, Orris Noir is not yet available for sale at Ormonde Jayne online store, however it is bound to be launched there soon.
Please visit Now Smell This to read Robin's review of Orris Noir.
Tomorrow, a review of another Orris, this time by Andy Tauer.
The first image is from silkroadandbeyond.co.uk, the second is from purebeauty.co.uk.
Some other perfumes featuring the davana note:
Battistoni Marte Arte
DKNY Red Delicious Men
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Davana
Givenchy Blue Label
Givenchy Pour Homme
Hermes Parfum des Merveilles
Histoires de Parfums 1740
Joop Rococo Men
Kenzo Jungle Le Tigre
La Sirenuse Paestum Rose
Lulu Guinness Cast a Spell
Michael Kors KORS
Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus
Parfums de Nicolai Fig Tea
Rich Hippie Maharishi
Salvator Dali Dalissime