Perfume Review: Mona di Orio Oiro
Oiro is the newest addition to Mona di Orio’s collection of fragrances. Inspired by gold (Oiro is Portuguese for “gold”), it has notes of green mandarin, sweet pea, spices, jasmine, olibanum, heliotrope, vetiver, ylang-ylang, immortelle, cedar, musk and amber. The gold of Oiro is not that of flames in a fireplace, of heavily ornamented brocade fabric or of antique jewels. It is not the opulent, nocturnal gold of lavish gatherings and passionate encounters. This is the gold of the sun, of citrus fruits bright like yellow and orange gems among the green leaves, of languid days of summer spent basking in the dazzling light.
Oiro starts with an accord that blends jasmine, unripe citrus fruits and spices (pimento and clove, perhaps) and by mixing them achieves the striking effect of indolic spiciness that I adored in another di Orio creation, Nuit Noire. Citrus notes are quite strong in the second half of the first stage of the scent’s development; they have a feel of exotic candies that combine sweet fruits with red hot piquancy of chili. The spicy citruses subside and the jasmine note becomes illuminated in all its vivid glory. The jasmine here does not smell indolic to the point of being fecal, but a hint of floral dirtiness is there, and I love it. I also love the way the spicy/dry leitmotif runs through the composition, adding a green and subtly incensey quality to the blend and balancing the headiness of jasmine and ylang ylang. The drydown does not lose the brightness of the floral notes, even the citruses are still there, subtly in the background. It does, however, have a certain earthy undertone and a very appealing musk note that in a way echoes the indolic characteristic of the flowers.
Oiro is scheduled to launch in 2007. I hope it is released sometime in January-February, which are the darkest months for my sun-loving soul. This scent, in which everything is illuminated, would be a fantastic reminder of summer in the midst of depressing winter chill.
The images are from monadiorio.com.