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Thursday, December 28, 2006

Perfume Review: Caron N'Aimez Que Moi and Alpona

Review by Tom

Two more in the four-part Caron fest:

N'Aimez Que Moi

I can almost see how someone casually sniffing this one might actually drop the dreaded "Old Lady" bomb-that is if the roses and violets didn't smell so heartwrenchingly true to the flowers. For me, the violets take a backseat to the cabbage-rose accord, rounding it nicely out. There's also a tiny whiff of citrus: this is a sunny summer in an English garden. Does Caron have a patent on this rose? Or et Noir had it as well in it's demure drydown, this one starts with it. As it moves on, the violets and lilacs start coming in, as the scent becomes more of a classic chypre, with a woody and surprisingly carnal finish. I can see why it's a classic, and I can also see why some modern noses would dismiss it. I guess I'm not a modern nose.

Alpona

What a difference 20 years makes! Unlike the graceful N'Aimez Que Moi, Alpona starts off with a surge of candied and liquored citrus worthy of any niche house open today. I also smell quite a bit of musk among the hesperides as well as bergamot. Thyme and Myrrh join into the middle, reminding me very much of Yatagan (now how bad could that be?) before finally settling down to that rich Caron base. Yatagan is still in there: muted and refined but still with a touch of the savage. I'd buy this in a heartbeat

Next time: the last of my Caron samples, ones from my lifetime, Montaigne and Eau de Réglisse.

Image source, okadi.com.

13 Comments:

Blogger colombina said...

Tom,
Graceful is such a perfect word to describe N'Aimez! And I've been mulling over what Alpona reminds me of for like a year...and here you go comparing it to Yatagan- and that's it, exactly. Wonderful reviews, thank you!

10:17 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

Why thank you! N'Aimez Que Moi is wonderful: a brave English Rose (yes, I know it's French) waiting at the headlands for her soldier to return, the carnal finish hinting at what's going to go on behind those chintz curtains when he does. Oh my!

Alpona is a different animal: opens a bit like Rich Hippie Psychedelic with a touch of Human Existence and ending with a slightly more muted version of Yatagan's opening? Where do I sign up?

10:37 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

"A brave English Rose ... waiting at the headlands for her soldier to return, the carnal finish hinting at what's going to go on behind those chintz curtains when he does." Ooh boy. Danielle Steel is nervously smoking in the corner.

10:58 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

LMAO- that's the best laugh I've had this decade! Not to mention the best visual!

11:05 PM EST  
Blogger lilyofbp said...

I adore N'Aimez. I have a vintage bottle in a beautiful box with a pink tassel. I don't know whether the perfume is significantly different (someone told me it seems richer), but the vintage presentation seems perfect. For some reason, I have never really gotten into Alpona--must try again (with Yatagan in mind:)

7:40 AM EST  
Blogger elle said...

Hangs head. I can't wear N'Aimez. I need to retry it. Alpona's another story altogether. It's not one I wear often, but whenever I do I just swoon. This one has serious cojones. I definitely see the link to Yatagan.

8:16 AM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

Lily-

I'd love to see what the bottle lookid like.

Alpona is a kick in the pants. I cannot imagine the impact it must have had in it's day.

11:01 AM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

Elle-

I personally wouldn't wear N'Aimez, but I would like to be around someone who does. As you write, Alpona is another matter altogether...

11:03 AM EST  
Blogger chaya ruchama said...

Tom-
You could wear anything you want- I'd still love you.

Great stuff, the Carons.
Something for everyone, if you sniff them all...
[And I have- still do- and never tire of them]

Be well, and enjoy the new year !

Kisses to you, and Ms. Naughty Lollipop [SHE knows who she is !].

3:48 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

Thanks Chaya!

You too!

4:30 PM EST  
Anonymous AngelaS said...

I adore Alpona and am wearing it right now, in fact. To me it smells like an orange from an old Italian painting--a little musty and antiqued, but vibrantly juicy all the same. Love it. Thanks so much for the review!

6:43 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

angelas-

thank you!

7:12 PM EST  
Blogger verdiandme said...

"N'aimez que moi" is "my" perfume for ever.

It is the scents of my grandparents house and beautiful park alleys and bushes ; it is the one which immedialtly melts on me ; always gorgious and unique, nothing to compare with contemporary ones...

But impossible to find any flask, anywhere ?

Can anybody help me ?...

4:31 AM EDT  

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