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Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 4

In Part 4 of Perfume Stars it is my pleasure and an honor to share with you summer favorites and ideal holiday destinations of some of the most talented women perfumers and perfume line creators. We start in the USA…

Mandy Aftel, Aftelier

What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent?

In a phone interview, Mandy Aftel told us that she gives preference to lighter fragrances in summer and generally believes that a scent should be appropriate for a season and a time of day rather than for specific social occasions. It is a lot like eating, says Aftel, stressing the importance of seasonality; some things are more appealing in summer, some in winter.

Speaking of specific essences, to the sourcing of which she devotes a lot of time, care and effort, Aftel mentioned that she considers the ones that went into the making of her new perfume, Cognac, to be well-suited for summer. These essences are ginger, blood orange, and olive. Aftel also likes sarsaparilla, which has a light, fruity, root-beery fragrance, as well as boronia, the smell of which she describes as a cross between freesia and raspberry.

Lightness for Aftel seems to be the most important characteristic, however she stresses that when she speaks of lightness, she means it in terms of odor profile. Lightness for her does not equal simplicity, the scent should be light but complex.

What is your favourite holiday destination?

Mandy Aftel’s favorite holiday destination is Oaxaca, Mexico, which she finds to have a stimulating, artisanal environment, and to be beautiful, lush and aromatic.


Sarah Horowitz-Thran, Creative Scentualization

What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent?

“My favorite summer fragrance is of course, 2 fragrances - how can I narrow it down to one? I wear Peace and Light from our 'What comes from Within' Collection in the summer - Peace daily, and Peace layered with Light when I am going somewhere special or out in the evening. 'Peace comes from Within' is the perfect everyday summer scent for me - it is a simple, three note blend - Bergamot, Pacific Musk ( a compound I created that is at once earthy and oceanic) and Sandalwood. It can be worn by men as well as women, it is fresh and clean and completely unobtrusive, and it wears very naturally on the skin. 'Light comes from Within' is much softer - floral and feminine. It has a night Jasmine/Honeysuckle accord in the middle note that gives a sweetness without being to sweet - and it is light enough for summer. When I layer them, I get this clean, soft feminine scent that my husband LOVES - and it makes me feel beautiful and natural all at once.”

What is your favorite holiday destination?

“My favorite holiday destination is pretty basic - anywhere with a beautiful, open beach, warm turquoise waters, and my family. Preferably with a cocktail in hand, toes in warm sun, laughter of my daughter in the background. Oh, and if it's Bora Bora, with the scent of Plumaria and Tiare in the air, Vanilla beans grown not to far away, and I can go scuba diving - all the better.”


Jalaine Sommers, Jalaine Fragrances

What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent?

“I love sandlewood, all citrus scents, lavender, rose, amber
I like soft sweet smells in the summer, nothing heavy...”

What is your favourite holiday destination?

“Figi is my favorite holiday destination.”


Yosh Han, Yosh

What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent?

“In the summer, I prefer to fragrances that are sheer and simple. Mostly single notes like neroli. I also like simple floral green fragrances for summer too. Freesia, iris, linden blossom. These are terrific in the summer. The other day, I made a simple spritz of geranium and spearmint. So deliciously cooling. I think the smell of berries is scrumptious and other fruity fragrances. I love my U4EAHH! because it's so juicy! Pear, pomegranate, cuke, aloe & waterlily. Unfortunately, it isn't the best for my skin type. Go figure. But I love it on other people. It's a very easy to wear fragrance for the hot season.

I also love Guerlain's Pamlelune. L'Artisan's Mimosa is refreshing for this season too. And I have Santa Maria Novella's Ginestra. It's delicate and barely there. I also have a beautiful violet fragrance that I got from a tiny specialty Italian boutique here in San Francisco called Bell'occhio. They're the only ones in the world who sell it.

I recently picked up Tigresse again that I made for a wedding dress maker. It is a sheer floral with a hint of mint. It's refreshing. It's nice to remember fragrances. I went into Jo Malone a few weeks ago. They gave me a sample of Nectarine Blossom & Honey. It took me back to the summer I graduated high school. Malone's lime blossom is great too. I bought TOUCH Uchino Herbal Green blend in Tokyo. Wow. It's citrusy and green. I feel elated when I smell that. It gives me the same sensation as fresh mown hay. And I like this oil I got from Terra Nova called Sakura & Green Tea. It smells very peaceful to me.“

What is your favourite holiday destination?

“My favorite holiday destinations are places where I can have peace and quiet and go scuba or snorkel. I went to Cairns and Port Douglas in Australia and had a marvelous time between the Great Barrier Reef and the Rain Forest. The Great Barrier Reef is kind of a once in a life time adventure. I've never seen such big corral, extra giant clams, the tropical fish are just enormous. The Big Island of Hawaii is gorgeous too. More primal, go for the less touristy spots to feel Spirit energy. Kas in the coastal Mediterranean of Turkey. Wow. Quaint. Great food and people. Shopping. Swimming. Ruins. But if I want super city, I always love going to Japan. I love it. Tokyo, Kyoto, so many things to see and do. The food is incredible. Shopping is crazy. I went diving once there while it was pouring rain with lightning storms to see the electric eels. The Japanese are fanatical about certain things. And for scuba, they were dressed in neon team scuba gear. When the lightning strikes, the whole black sea lights up and you see the eels and people in neon. It's wild. I've never experienced anything like that before. Then I hopped over to Guam for wreck diving. It has US navy presence there so the sunken ships are huge. I saw a 300 lb jew fish. I almost had a hard attack. I thought it was a monster. The visibility was crystal clear. I love to spend time on holiday being in nature. It is the most important thing for me to be connected.”


DelRae Roth, Parfums Delrae

What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent?

“In the summer I wear Eau Illuminée. It is aromatic and fresh, uplifting and feels right whether it is very warm or cool (and foggy). It has some marine notes, and is refreshing as being in the country near the ocean. I don't like scents that are too baroque in the summer. I also wear Début which has the lily of the valley, linden blossom and vetyver.”

What is your favorite holiday destination?

“It really depends on the time of year, but regardless of season I love to go to Paris, I know, who doesn't. It is always beautiful, compelling, and something new to see and discover.”

To be continued on Friday.

Images courtesy of Mandy Aftel, Sarah Horowitz-Thran, Jalaine Sommers, Yosh Han and DelRae Roth.

27 Comments:

Anonymous Maria B. said...

The scent of boronia is so heavenly that it cannot be described with mere human words. We bought four plants of it this spring. When a breeze blows, it can send you into reverie. Only in spring. We must wait.

It's funny that you talked to Bay Area residents about summer scents. We live less than two hours south, and we've had to have our heat on the last few days. Someone once quipped that the coldest time he'd ever spent was San Francisco in July.

I know Eau Illuminee is not your favorite DelRae, Colombina, but, oh, it is mine. :-)

Thanks for a stellar series!

12:42 AM EDT  
Anonymous Leopoldo said...

Thanks Colombina for this. I identify much more with those people who are spoilt for choice in choosing, than with those who pick their own...

4:07 AM EDT  
Blogger lilyofbp (Judith) said...

Lovely series! I really enjoy reading all these comments, and I want to go on all their vacations!
(Mr. L. just presented me with a coffee cup that reads, "I'd rather be in Paris.":)

6:59 AM EDT  
Blogger elle said...

Such a fascinating series. Yosh's vacation destinations sound absolutely ideal to me. She's my female Claude. :-) And I definitely want to get that violet scent from Bell'occhio.

7:23 AM EDT  
Anonymous divalano said...

Ha! The coldest winter in July quote is attributed to Mark Twain & yeah, knowing it is why I packed polarfleece for my July vacation in SF. I have photos of us bundled in hats & scarves at the beach, lol. And I was able to wear my cool weather scents ;)

I'm still searching for the perfect summer scent & reading these interviews voraciously. Wish that summer fragrance wasn't always full of marine, grass, green, bergamot, lavender, rose ... bah. Maybe I'd like lemon?? Lemon & cuke maybe? Still looking.

8:20 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Maria,
Heat on? It must really cold. I hope summer returns to you though!

8:57 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Lee,
I think we are so spoiled for choice that we become almost jaded, it is time to make our own :-)

8:57 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Judith,
Oh, I am so glad it arrived!

8:58 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

L,
I want that violet scent and I want to see a 300lb fish too. But maybe from a safe distance :-)

8:58 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Divalano,
OK, I am making a note to to visit SF in summer :-)
Lemon and cucumber? I am sorry, but...euch. :-)

8:59 AM EDT  
Blogger Patty said...

Love this series! Just wanted to let you know that since I've been not commenting for a week, just reading. :)

9:01 AM EDT  
Blogger lilyofbp (Judith) said...

Wait--did you send me that?? I thought it was Mr. Lily! thanks so much!!

9:04 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Patty,
Thank you, and I hope you are feeling better!

9:11 AM EDT  
Anonymous Divalano said...

Marina,

you're right! I meant lemon OR cuke, lol. maybe it was a Freudian slip & I'm wishing for salad. just add dill! seriously tho, maybe lemon verbena something? hmm

9:11 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Judith,
:-D Guilty as charged.

9:11 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Divalano,
You probably have tried it, but just in case...have you tried Eau d'Hadrien? The clearest, non-sweet, most refreshing and overall wonderful citrus scent ever for me. I've yet to find a scent with cucumber that I would like :-)

9:13 AM EDT  
Blogger lilyofbp (Judith) said...

9:19 AM EDT  
Blogger greeneyes said...

Oh dear! I just sampled Peace Comes From Within last week...that musk thing is very funky on me, but I guess it works fine on its creator! Anyway, I prefer it when the perfumers talk about other people's creations that they like. Somehow mentioning one's own fragrance seems like a plug. I'm more interested in what they find inspiring in other people's work.

10:03 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

P,
I take it as an indicator that they really create things for themselves so to say: according to their taste, something that they would (and do)wear. And that's a good thing as far as I am concerned.

10:07 AM EDT  
Blogger Jenavira13 said...

I live about and hour and a half east of SF and we are in the nineties and eighties (definately no need of heat here, oh the wonderful microclimates of California). I admit I was intrigued by Yosh's Bell'Ochio scent and highly amused by here cheapie pick Sakura and Green Tea. Really did love the fact she admitted she had created a fragrance that she herself could not wear.

10:28 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Jenavira,
I am intrigued by the Bell'Ochio too, have to find a way to try it.

10:32 AM EDT  
Blogger TMH256 said...

Oh, how interesting and fun to read! Thanks Marina!!

11:17 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Thank you, Tamara!

11:37 AM EDT  
Blogger Ina said...

This post is another confirmation why I love Yosh so much. :) She's brilliant, and so are her creations (but you already knew that).

12:50 PM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Ina,
I know you are a big fan. She is definitely very lovely.

1:09 PM EDT  
Blogger tmp00 said...

These are always so interesting: I love how people are jetting off to Fiji or Paris. I need to get out more...

3:44 PM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Tom,
That's what I was thinking too :-) I need to get out more :-)

3:47 PM EDT  

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