Inspired by indigo, "the color of travel", "by the seductive dance of color and scent as dusk sets on water", and by the atmospheric mi chieh mi loup hour of twilight, L'Eau Par Kenzo Eau Indigo Pour Homme is a "night-time" sequel to L'Eau Par Kenzo Pour Homme. Created by Sophie Labbé, the fragrance is a blend of ginger, coriander, elemi, vetiver, cedar, labdanum and tonka bean.
As the list of notes indicates, the scent is built on the contrast of spicy-cool-fresh and resinous-warm-earthy. The airier top notes balance the more substantial base, achieving that very Kenzo effect of pared-down transparency under which is concealed fairly weighty complexity. An Indigo perfume by another line would have been significantly darker and more intense. Kenzo's interpretation is the transluscent darkness of water right before the sun sinks into it on the horizon... while the rays still make it possible to get a glimpse of the solemn depth under the tranquil surface. I love the interplay of the sweeter ginger and sharper, more fiery coriander in the beginning, and the way spices enliven the dry resinousness of cedar and elemi. Vetiver prevents amber and tonka bean from making the scent too robust and sweet, while they, in turn, make sure that the green rootiness of vetiver, although apparent, does not dominate the composition. Softly sensual, harmonious, easy to wear, this is indeed a perfect perfume for a quiet summer night. L'Eau Par Kenzo Eau Indigo Pour Homme is soft enough to be easily worn by a woman, and I found it much more interesting on my skin than the Femme verison, which I thought to be somewhat powdery-sugary.
Available at kenzousa.com, $55.00 for 1.7oz.