Six Scents Series Two: Perfume Review

By Marla Six Scents is an annual project where designers/artists, and perfumers are paired to create new scents. The emphasis on Six Scents Two is environmental concern and harmony, and the relationship of artists to the natural world. Artist/designers collaborated with perfumers from Givaudan to design scents and visuals that encourage environmental sensitivity. They make for a fascinating series. These scents are not so much perfumes as olfactory environments. None of these could ever be found in a mall or airport shop. I’ve been having a lot of fun with them. Fragrance 1: “Collage” is by Phillip Lim in collaboration with perfumer Nathalie Gracia-Cetto. The notes are bergamot, black pepper, juniper berry, magnolia accord, patchouli, Virginia cedar and incense. Collage is like the love child of an old-fashioned men’s cologne and CdG’s Ouarzazate. It’s herbal and crispy-cold like the thin layer of ice that forms over deep snow, but with strong wood resins bubbling up from beneath. It’s got the same hot-cold vibe that A-Men has, though the two are nothing alike in scent. It wears more lightly than CdG’s Incense Series, though it certainly could fit in well with that group. Fragrance 2: “Ende / Anfang” is by Damir Doma in collaboration with perfumer Yann Vasnier. The notes are purple ginger, vetiver, cedarwood, guaiacwood, cardamom, coriander seed, birch tar, sandalwood, beeswax absolute, patchouli, and myrrh. The opening, which I assume is the purple ginger, smells like bitter lime peel and gin-and-tonic. Then it morphs into an in-your-face chypre (sans oakmoss, but birch tar stands in). It’s very bold, but for this composition, that boldness works very well. It’s exceedingly natural smelling, with a beautiful real-patchouli drydown that’s incredibly comforting. There is nothing “clean laundry”, or “shower fresh” about this fragrance. It’s strong, natural, and compelling. It tends toward masculine, but is very suitable for women who like bitter, green fragrances (like me). I like how Anfang starts out so cold, yet ends up warm and cozy. Fragrance 3: “Solar Donkey Power” is by Henrik Vibskov in collaboration with perfumer Louise Turner. This scent is meant to evoke a sauna in winter. The notes are bergamot, sage, geranium, patchouli, moss, incense, and pine. It is intense with strong sillage. SDP is heavy on the IsoE Super, with lots of citrus and resins. It’s very refreshing, and in many ways, similar to Hermes Terre d’Hermes. Lovers of TdH will like this one, too, though Donkey Power is heavier on the forestry than the citrus. And no, I have no idea how this one got its name. I’ll review the last three in the series before the winter holidays. I’ve been going slowly with them as they are quite absorbing and contemplative in character. Full disclosure: I bought a set of samples of Six Scents Two from Luckyscent, where full bottles can also be purchased. You can learn more about the Six Scents project from six-scents.com.