Gershwin by Maria Candida Gentile
Maria Candida Gentile is an Italian perfumer with an interesting, so far pleasantly small line-up of fragrances. A stand out for me is Gershwin, a light, melancholy blend of incense and citrus. It might be that the atmosphere of the scent fits my mood, it might be that I am projecting my mood on the scent, but it works wonderfully for me right now.
Somewhat similar in concept to Mandy Aftel's Candide, Gershwin is drier and more transparent. The cool, wistful incense note is airy and diaphanous thanks to the presence of a non-sweet, non-sparkly, oddly somber citrus accord. Candide could have been a smile through tears, Gershwin is not smiling at all. There is an air of beautiful dejectedness about it that I find fascinating. People more familiar with the work of the composer might be able to find an analogy among his compositions. (I just know, for example, that Rhapsody in Blue is too upbeat to be compared to this fragrance.) To me, this perfume is not Gershwin but Gluck, or more precisely J'ai Perdu Mon Eurydice, from Orphee Et Eurydice.
Available at liannetioparfums.nl, €125,00 for 100ml. I am hoping to see the line in States one day soon.
Image, Orpheus by Francois Louis Francais, is from art.com.