Perfume Review: Christian Dior Eau Noire

Eau Noire is a part of the collection of colognes (which also includes Bois d’Argent and Cologne Blanche) produced for Christian Dior by Hedi Slimane. Eau Noire is said to have been developed “to harmonize with the black tie world of Dior Homme” and made to suit the taste of Hedi Slimane himself. According to the designer, it allowed him to trade what he had been wearing “since the age of 11”. (from Fashionlines.com) It was created by Francis Kurkdjian, the author of Guerlain Rose Barbare, Narciso Rodriguez For Her and Jean Paul Gaultier Gaultier2. I think that Eau Noire is perhaps the most interesting of the three colognes, and one of my favorite Kurkdjian’s creations. According to Luca Turin, Eau Noire has the note of Helichrysum (Immortelle), “an odd, fenugreek-like smell halfway between curry and burnt sugar.” The note was famously used in Goutal’s Sables, however, while Sables enveloped the note within the folds of the dark, syrupy sweetness of vanilla, cinnamon and sandalwood, Eau Noire opts for the wonderful (and to me much more wearable), thick, vegetal verdancy. I am a little confused by the statement that Eau Noire was meant to go with “the black tie world of Dior”. Not that it would be out of place in such a world, but to me the scent is not so much about chic and elegance, as it is about comfort and serenity. The thyme and sage top notes are refreshing, the lavender is tranquil, the cedarwood is dry and soothing and all this Zen-like, green-woody harmony is softened by vanilla…Black tie parties? With Eau Noire on, the vanity and bustle of such time-pursuits could not be further from my relaxed and enlightened mind. It makes me want to sit in a remote quiet corner of the world, gazing at an endless sea and sagely quoting Tao Te Ching: …Empty yourself of everything… …There is no greater sin than desire, no greater curse than discontent, no greater misfortune than wanting something for oneself… …The world is ruled by letting things go. It cannot be ruled by interfering… Coming back to reality…I would especially recommend Eau Noire to the fans of Encens et Lavande by Serge Lutens; the scents share the enjoyable herbal smokiness and the relaxing, centering quality. Eau Noire is available at Neiman Marcus, $115.00 for 4.2oz. The image is from heavenandearthyoga.ca