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Monday, April 17, 2006

My Top Ten Scents This Spring

I love compiling lists; if I haven’t done one in a while, I become restless. So, with an excuse that spring deserves its own Top 10 List, here are my Top Ten Scents This Spring:

L by Lolita Lempicka. Yes, really. I have been wearing this lovely scent almost everyday for the last couple of weeks. Created by one of my favorite perfumers, Maurice Roucel, L has notes of gomphrena flower, bergamot, bitter orange, cinnamon, vanilla and musk. It is a subtly gourmand scent with a wonderful spicy-citrusy accord, not earth-shatteringly original, but I find it delightful and extremely wearable. One of my two most favorite new releases.

Terre d’Hermes by Hermes. The other favorite new release. Described as a “vegetable and mineral” scent, Terre d’Hermes has a wonderfully clear, uncluttered composition. This blend of vetiver, pepper, grapefruit, patchouli and cedar is fresh, clean, spicy and raw; it smells of roots, snones and earth.

Safran Troublant by L’Artisan. Part of L’Artisan’s trio Les Epices de la Passion, now also available separately, Safran Troublant to me is one of the most pleasurable and delightful fragrances. The creamy, spicy blend of saffron, vanilla and sandal is enriched further by the addition of a rose note. Comforting and exquisite. If this scent were a fabric, it would be golden velvet decorated with intricate red ornaments.

Safram by Laura Tonatto. I have heard complaints that this scent is too sweet and heavy on vanilla. I guess I am very lucky in that, on my skin, the saffron is most definitely the dominant note, the true star of the blend that eclipses the vanilla note. Safram is not as complex as Safran Troublant, however it is more spicy, drier than L’Artisan’s creation and I adore that quality as much as Troublant’s smooth creaminess.

Attrape-Coeur by Guerlain. From the first sniff, this exquisite blend of iris, violet, sandalwood and vanilla caught my heart in its gold, velvety snare. Elegant, soft, heartbreakingly beautiful, Attrape-Coeur will be a part of my Top Ten lists in all seasons.

Wenge by Donna Karan. Part of Donna Karan’s Essence collection, Wenge is a simple, clear-cut composition based on the wood native to Africa. I find Wenge to be centering, comforting and relaxing; it is a spicy, resinous fragrance that is remarkably subtle and wonderfully serene.

Labdanum by Donna Karan. Superb when layered with Wenge and marvelous on its own, Labdanum has a subtle incense undertone that I find extremely appealing and an even subtler hint of flowers that lifts and enlivens the composition. Like Wenge, this is an unfussy, minimalistic fragrance that I find soothing and comforting.

Musc Ravageur by Frederic Malle. Another Marcel Roucel’s creation on my Top Ten list and perhaps my favorite of all Roucel’s scents. Musc Ravageur, how I love thee…let me count the ways…I love the citrus fireworks of your top notes, the dirty sensuality of your musc, the warmth of your spices…I love the fact that I can wear you anyplace, anytime, on any occasion. Putting you on is like stepping into a loving embrace. Signed, Forever Yours, M.

Fifi by Fifi Chachnil. I am going to shamlessly quote myself here, since my opinion on Fifi has not changed one bit since I wrote this in my
Best of 2005 post: “A stunning fragrance, sexy and full of character, unconventional, playful and très féminin ; Fifi tops the list of my favorite "pinup scents".”

Diorella by Christian Dior. A very recent addition to my fragrance wardrobe that went striaght onto my Top 10 list. I discovered Diorella thanks to the
blind fragrance testing experiment I’ve been doing with March and Patty from Perfume Posse. Diorella, alias Jaguar, was one of the samples that March sent me. Sophisticated and chic, Diorella blends lemon, bergamot, basil, melon, jasmine, rose, carantion, cyclamen, oakmoss, vetiver, musk and patchouli. It is a fresh yet warm and “deep” scent, its multifaceted, complex, very feminine composition reminds me of another Roudtnitska’s creation, Le Parfum de Therese, which I adore just as much as Diorella and which by all rights should join it on this list.

Honorary mentions are also given to
Cologne Blanche by Christian Dior, 100 % Love by S-Perfume, Message from Orchids and Feminite du Bois by Shiseido, Idole de Lubin, Ambre Russe by Parfum d’Empire, Eau de Russe by Crown Perfumery, Angelique Encens by Creed, and Bois des Iles by Chanel.

I love to read lists as much as I love to write them, so please share your Top Ten Scents This Spring!

The painting is Candy by Tracy Dennison

Tomorrow – Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company.


Blogger Victoria said...

Very nice list! I can agree with you on quite a few for a change. I'm just about to do my review of Safran Troublant, and I am seriously loving my Wenge which I just recieved last week. I love Fifi and the LT. I think I'm going to like the L, too. :O)

1:23 AM EDT  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

Great list, even if we only have 2 loves in common -- Terre d'Hermes & Diorella.

8:59 AM EDT  
Blogger marchlion said...

Marina -- see, this is why the list thing is so cool. Your list trends much more toward spicy, earthy things. Mine will go up later this week. I'm glad Diorella found a loving home. I think I've underestimated the Wenge and Labdanum, I need to re-smell them. Attrape is a stunner any time, isn't it? Your Musc comment interested me; I love the way it smells but can only wear it when I really feel up to it.

10:23 AM EDT  
Blogger tmp00 said...

I love Safran Troublant as well, but it's sadly not very long-lasting on me. I am trying not to love Musc Ravageur, since it's fairly pricy, and I really should ne buying new tires rather than new scent.

This week was the first one in months where we had a hot day- almost 90 degrees on Thursday. I found myself going for one of my favorite spring scents- Acqua de Parma. I love the sugared lemon and verbena, and spring is still cool enough that the amber, jasmine and rose aren't too much

11:14 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I love your list and everyand each scent on it apart from...well, you can guess :-)

2:41 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

can't wait to read your review of ST. I am so in love with that scent. :-)

2:42 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I read your comment that you like Diorella and remembered that you like Le Parfum de Therese too. And it makes total sense to me that one would like both scents. Do you smell the similarity too?

2:45 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I can wear MR anytime, any season, it is always great :-)
I think you would love Wenge. Perhaps Labdanum too. Give them another try!!

2:46 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

You are not a perfume addict yet if, when faced with a dilemma "new tires or Musc Rvageur", you are leaning towards new tires.
Tsk tsk tsk
(only joking!...I think...)

2:48 PM EDT  
Blogger Caitlin Shortell said...

Dear Marina,
I love lists too, because it's fun to see what other people love. We may seem like lemmings to the outside world, but we perfume lovers have quite varying tastes. I will put mine together on the blog once I get through the Paris posts, which are slowly edging along. I tried Lolita L and Terre d'Hermes in Paris. Diorella too, but the one that grabbed me with Dior was Dioressence. Scrumptious. I must have a bottle.
Oh, Musc Rav is really growing on me. I smelled it on my clothes from wearing them a few days prior (really, I am a very clean girl)and thought, mmmm, what IS that? Must have it. The drydown is perhaps the best part, although ... the cardamom is hard to beat.

3:57 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I've been so busy, I haven't been able to visit and enjoy your latest posts :-( *prays for some free time*

Cardamom totally rocks, and is especially wonderful in MR!

By the way, I got some M'oma and it is as delicious as you described it.

I am looking forward to reading your list!!

4:05 PM EDT  
Blogger Carolyn said...

Hi M! Love your list. I love making lists too, so here's my attempt:

1. Hermes Rose Ikebana
2. Creative Scentualization Grapefruit (just recently discovered this, and it's the most perfect grapefruit scent ever)
3. L'Artisan Mimosa Pour Moi
4. Susanne Lang Cashmere
5. Jo Malone Orange Blossom
6. Elizabeth W Sweet Tea
7. Sage Machado Carnelian
8. Philosophy Amazing Grace (I've essentially ignored my bottle all winter, but now that it's warmer I've been craving it)
9. SJP Lovely
10. I'm going to go with you and name Musc Ravageur here. It has been so perfect to wear on warm evenings--more so than I would have expected.

Thanks for the fun diversion!

5:33 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Yours is such a beautiful list. I wrote down Creative Scentualization Grapefruit. After being traumatized by Pamplelune :-), I was afraid of grapefruit notes, but I am starting to enjoy them again and am always looking for great grapefruit scents. Many thanks for the heads up!

5:45 PM EDT  
Blogger lilybp said...

OK, I am back briefly from what I have begun to think of as the never-ending conference. And I will try (though I hate decisions).
The New Ones:
1. le Labo Patchouli. I also liked Ciste (though I prefer MuscR here) and Iris, and I am sad I didn't get to try Rose and Bergamont.
2. Songes EdP
3. Gris Clair
4. Carnal Flower
5. JAR Golconda
and--the old favorites:
6. Angelique Encens
7. Chanel Cuir de Russie
8. Jicky
9. Poivre
10. Encens et Lavande

6:12 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

What a wonderful list! Apart from 3 (Golconda- haven't tried, Songes EDP - prefer EDT, and Carnal Flower- can't wear), I love the scents on your list. Mmmm, Poivre...

6:18 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Can't wait to read yours! My list has changed since winter, since there are new addition, but some favorites stayed, like Attrape or Rvageur.

7:06 PM EDT  
Blogger katiedid said...

Oh man, I need to make a list, too. I loved reading yours. I think I tend to use the cool greyness of Oregon spring sometimes as an excuse to try to prolong how often I can wear my heavier scents, though, heh. Summer is when I go nuts and completely change my selections. You really love the L huh? I love that bottle (ach, so pretty.) Fifi is one that, you know, I like, but I'm sort of "eh" on since it reminds me so much of Habanita and I like Habanita just a tinge more for whatever reason. (And you already know how much I have loved the Terre, so that one would likely end up making its way onto my list as well!)

9:14 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Habanita?? Really?...I must re-sniff Habanita!

I would love to read your list!

10:10 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I can't believe I would make that mistake. My most favorite Nose, and I write his name wrong. Shame on me :-)

I love leather and I am on a vetiver kick right now. I have not tried Goutal's or Nicolai's vetivers, so thank you very much for mentioning them!

10:29 AM EDT  
Blogger Kyahgirl said...

loved your list. I'm sorry to say that I have sampled very few new things but do have my steady eddy perfume friends:
1) Flowerbomb
2) Givenchy Oblique Rewind
3) CC No. 1
4) Fiori di Capri
5) Magnetism
6) Tuberose Indiana
7) Seve Exquise
8) Bijou
9) Masuki Matsushima mat;
10) 212 sexy

the last three I just bought yesterday on a total impulse and I"m sure I'll wear them a lot for the next while :-)

5:06 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

So pleased to see Oblique RWD on your list!

The impulse purchases are most fun, aren't they?

5:16 PM EDT  

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