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Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Perfume in the Glossies: May 2008

Slim pickings this month. Boo to the usually (relatively) perfume-heavy Allure for hardly any perfume content except for another basic column from "Fragrance Guy", Frederic Malle, in which he advises that "using a heavy oriental such as Shalimar or Obsession in summer is like wearing a fur coat" and that "sexy summer fragrances are generally made up of white flowers such as gardenia and orange blossom". (One wonders if it pains a man of so much knowledge to have to adhere to a very primitive accessible format undoubtedly requested by editors...and also if it pains him to be called "Fragrance Guy").

...But kudos to Vogue for finally starting to cotton on to the existence of the world of fine perfume, and by fine perfume I do not mean 80% of that which appears on the numerous ads on its pages. Erika Kawalek, in an article entitled Into This Air, visits Osmotheque, goes away deeply moved by Iris Gris, Scandal and Rose Jacqueminot and attempts to obtain her new favorites. The articles goes to mention names that one somehow would never expect to see in Vogue: "perfume detective" Anitra Earle, Jaime Lliteras (that's right, he of the now legendary eBay store!), The Perfumed Court, Luca Turin, Tania Sanchez and a number of very niche scents like Onda and Bois Blond. I feel a sense of strange satisfaction observing Our World (the world of perfume maniacs that is) slowly but steadily seeping into the pages of glossies and from there into the world of normal people general public. To quote Leonard Cohen, first we take Manhattan, then we take Berlin.



Anonymous Anonymous said...

It's just a matter of time. Of course, calling Fredick Malle, "The Perfume Guy," is sort of like calling Julia Child, "The Kitchen Broad," which, now that I think about it, would have made her smile.

12:02 AM EDT  
Blogger carmencanada said...

Ok, does that mean that Jaime will sell his entire inventory, leaving us with nothing to drool at? Just knowing he'd been mentioned in that article triggered a panic order for a couple of things I'd be eyeing...
Love the Leonard Cohen quote at the end: "First we take Manhattan/ Then we take Berlin", sounds about right.

2:14 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Marina, what's the picture ?

5:06 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I guess he is amused too :-)

6:31 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

It is a little scary. There is no address for the store, but there is always google.

6:32 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

It's a still from Cohen's video that I quoted.

6:32 AM EDT  
Blogger lilybp said...

I admit to feeling a certain amount of snobbish resentment at other people finding out about "our" perfumes and sources. And, unfortunately, they got the email address of The Perfumed Court wrong (left out the "d").

6:59 AM EDT  
Blogger marchlion said...

ITA with quinncreative -- Fragrance Guy makes me wince every time I read it.

PS lilybp -- I guess TPC bought that address too? At least when you type in the misspelled site on my computer it still takes you to the right place. I wonder if they've been slammed, have to ask Patty.

8:47 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I love that quote! Jaime is now famous, which the selfish part of me deems to be a pity. :)


9:44 AM EDT  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

LOL -- somehow I've read that column several times without even noticing "Fragrance Guy". Now I'm going to laugh whenever I think of Frederic Malle...

11:58 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I seen an article about Parfumerie Generale last month, by Chandler Burr: "Airbus meet Chanel" he wrote.


1:14 PM EDT  
Blogger chayaruchama said...

Great quote from the elusive Canadien prefere [GOD, I love dat man !]
Allure was lightweight this month.
'Perfume guy', my tuchus.
Whoops !
Not nice.
But sincerely meant...I wouldn't call ANYONE that.
It sounds so tacky.
Monsieur Malle is NOT tacky.

3:45 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I was equally surprised as you when I read that article. Wasn't quite sure whether to be delighted or not - my feelings run along the lines of lilybp. Hmmph - what to make of it?

3:49 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I read this with such mixed feelings. I'm very selfish, I don't know that I want to share "my" perfumes with everyone else. But as my 12 year old DD pointed out, it would mean I wouldn't have to explain who was Serge Lutens or Parfumerie Generale. I was more shocked that she knew who they were than worried about having to explain who they were to the rest of the world .... like mother, like daughter I suppose!!!

6:00 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I understand that, totally :-)

9:23 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I wonder how that name was even thought of in the first place.

9:24 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I wonder how much his business will be boosted beacuse of Vogue...

9:26 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

First thing I noticed in the first column. It was like...what on earth..?!

9:27 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Airbus meets Chanel...I'll have to ponder on that one...:-)

9:28 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I love dat man too :-)
And I agree that M. Malle is not tacky in the least.

9:29 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I knwo, I am kind of in two minds too...but for some reason am excited more than anything else :-)

9:32 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

You know, it's a very big plus. Because these days, to escape explanations I often just pretend I don't know what I am wearing and vaguely say, it is some French stuff :-)

9:33 PM EDT  
Blogger Haus von Stone said...

You've already taken Berlin....!

2:19 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Seen it in GQ, March, Colombina.

3:08 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Haha!! :-)

6:41 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Dear Anonymous,
I am sorry, what is in GQ?

6:42 AM EDT  
Blogger Unknown said...

darn it! I was so resolved not to buy any mags this month and now I haive to get Vogue.

8:18 AM EDT  
Blogger tansy said...

Jaime Lliteras' grandfather had the best parfumerie in Tijuana: beautiful polished mahogany showcases, many factices, neon signs of perfume logos on the building's roof. I used to shop there 40 years ago. Now that his grandfather is gone, Jaime has been selling the remaining inventory. He grew up in the perfume business. And you find it strange that he was mentioned in Vogue? And that I was? I've been in 3 or 4 Vogue perfume articles over the years. Anitra Earle

9:30 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Dear Anitra,
How lovely to see you here. No, I don't find it strange. i find it wonderful.

10:04 PM EDT  
Blogger Rachel said...


This was in the April edition of Vogue? I don't remember seeing it...

10:35 AM EDT  

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