Perfume Review: Santa Maria Novella Patchouli

Patchouli madness continues along with re-discovery of previously under-appreciated lines of fragrances. I have never had much luck with Santa Maria Novella's creations, and it is ironic that I should find a new interest in the line because of its rendition of the formerly disliked note. Patchouli starts very earthy, with the kind of raw-moist-soil feel that both attracts and scares me in patchouli scents. The sharp, dark, brooding beginning is also strikingly masculine. Within a couple of minutes, however, the fragrance begins to soften, acquiring a creamy, dare I say, floral feel, as if sweet blossoms like tuberose and/or ylang-ylang were included in the blend. There is also soft spiciness (nutmeg? truly I am just making wild guesses here, um, as usual) that goes really well with "flowers". I find this reverse sort of development (from strong to soft, from dark to light) incredibly compelling. Experiencing the development of SMN Patchouli is like watching a figure dressed in a severely masculine costume strip off clothes revealing a very feminine, very voluptuous form underneath. Patchouli is available at Lafco, $96.00 for 100ml.