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Monday, November 28, 2005

Perfume Review: Les Parfums de Rosine Rose de Feu


A deeper glow: a rose of fire:
A rose of passionate desire
Lone burning in a lonely heart.
Victor James Daley, Years After

Rose de Feu is a new addition to one of my favorite fragrance lines, Les Parfums de Rosine. According to Robert from Aedes, Rose de Feu has only been released in Europe and is not expected to be launched in the US till the next year. My Google search for information about the new Rosine only revealed one store carrying Rose de Feu, namely First in Fragrance; this tells me that perhaps the fragrance right now has a very limited release or have not actually been released at all and First in Fragrance has just happened to miraculously obtain pre-launch bottles. If anyone has any more information about Rose de Feu and when and where it will be available, please comment!

As far as I can judge from the description on First in Fragrance, Rose de Feu’s list of ingredients includes “green notes”, cardamom, bergamot, ylang ylang and magnolia. It also may or may not contain cinnamon, honey and gingerbread. To my nose, the most apparent notes in Rose de Feu are apple, thyme, rose, cardamom, magnolia and sandalwood. No cinnamon and gingerbread in sight, at least on my skin. The scents starts with what I can only describe as a scent of very ripe, sweet red apples, that accord is strangely accompanied by thyme, and I must tell you it is not a bad combination at all. It gets even better when the rose joins the composition. It is a sweet, honeyed rose and is gorgeous combined with the fruity and herbal notes. As the scent progresses, a note that to my nose smells like a mix between frangipane and jasmine and what I assume is actually magnolia, brings a certain spring-like, joyous quality to the composition. The smell of thyme disappears but cardamom steps in to keep things interesting; the note is spicy and creamy at the same time and adds a little “kick” to the blend. Cardamom vanishes before the drydown; the latter features soft sandalwood, rose and the “magnolia” note described above.

The fragrance does not strike me as particularly “fiery”. It is softly sensual and is neither too sweet nor overly spicy. I can see why First in Fragrance would advise to wear it for candlelight dinners, there is a certain romanticism in this scent, but I would say that Rose de Feu is subtle enough to be worn at any time of the day and for any occasion. This complaint will sound awfully vague, but as far as I am concerned, beautiful though it is, Rose de Feu lacks an oomph and a depth. I will not be rushing to order it from Germany and will wait patiently till it is released in the US.

Rose de Feu is available at First in Fragrance, where 50 ml retails for EUR 68.00 and 100ml for EUR 90.00. Samples are available for EUR 3.00 each.

*The ad for Rose de Feu is from http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/ (First in Fragrance).

*The painting is De la Pomme aux Levres by Georges Barbier.

12 Comments:

Blogger ParisLondres said...

Sounds rather interesting M! I think I have to check Printemps to see whether they will have it soon. They carry most as far as I know. There is a little hat shop in Palais Royal where they stock some too. Will try and test and report. The nice thing about First in Fragrance is that one can buy samples.

Thanks for the review. :)

10:28 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Dear N, if you find out anything more about Rose de Feu, would you please let me know? :-)
Many thanks!

11:08 AM EST  
Blogger Cait Shortell said...

I am sorely tempted by the mention of a new Rosine. Especially this one. Thanks for the news.

12:45 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Cait, are you a fellow fan of Rosine then? :-) I was very excited when I heard there was a new scent. Luckily First in Fragrance sells samples.

12:49 PM EST  
Blogger boisdejasmin said...

Thank you for reviewing it! Sounds lovely, but not essential. It is difficult to do a rose that truly stands out, because the theme has been so popular for so long. I still think that Lancome 2000 et Une Rose is among my favourites, simply because it is such a lush rose that it is almost abstract.

1:02 PM EST  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

Hmmm. Can't make up my mind if this is something that would tempt me or not. Thyme & apple not appealing, ylang often means too sweet for me, but then, love Rosine, love cardamom. Guess that means I'll have to try it!

1:05 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

V, you summed it up very nicely- "lovely but not essential". I must stress though that it IS very lovely. And I will get it at some point.

I have GOT to try Lancome 2000...what kind of New Born Rose Lover am I if I haven't...:-D

1:06 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

R.,apple may just be my weird perception of something that isn't an apple at all and would smell like apple to you. Same goes for thyme. It is just slightly herbal. Cardamom is quite pronounced. And I think you will be pleased to know that it is neither too sweet nor powdery :-)

1:07 PM EST  
Blogger katiedid said...

Oh wow, you really do love this line, don't you? I will eventually have to get on the ball here and try some of the Rosines. And mmmmmmm.... cardamom and rose.... mmmmmmmmm.

4:44 PM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

K, is it *that* obvious? tee hee

Do give the line a try, there has got to be something for you...says the loyal fan of Rosine:-)

4:51 PM EST  
Blogger Victoria said...

Sounds good up to the thyme. Not so big on kitchen herbs in perfume. But I'll give it a try when it makes it here. My favorites from this line are Rose d'Ete and La Rose.

6:26 AM EST  
Blogger colombina said...

Victoria,
I wouldn't worry about thyme, of course I don't mind it at all, but still, it wasn't over the top. Who knows whether there IS thyme in Rose de Feu, it could have been just my perception of some other note. Or my skin chemistry.
I wouldn't want this post to prevent you from trying this wonderful scent, one of the best releases this year, definitely.

9:48 AM EST  

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