Monday, July 31, 2006
Friday, July 28, 2006
Perfume Ads That Make You Go... How You Doin'!
After a hot, humid, stressful week, after having wasted too much time analyzing PretentiousScentsWithAnnoyingLongNames, after the Chypre Rouge fiasco and after over a thousand visits to Ormonde Jayne site to see if Orris Noir is finally being sold (please don't tell me I am the only sad individual to keep checking there compulsively!) ... after all that one needs some mindless entertainment, some eye candy. Thus I present to you my Hit-Parade of Hottest Guys in Perfume Ads. Please also visit Aromascope, who, to keep things in balance, will allow you to feast your eyes on Hottest Ladies in Perfume Ads. Cowboys Are Hot... ...as are some soccer players... ...and astronauts... Family men, men with little babies are really hot. Not many would agree, but sweaty, horse-riding Ottoman soldiers with yatagans are hot. Enrique Iglesias is hot indeed... Aquiline profiles are hot... ...as are barechested guys staring at the horizon... Can't see this guy's whole face, but I like what I can see... How you doin'! ...and you! ...and you! ...and you too! Cartoon guys in Dior ads are ridiculously hot: And of course, no Hot Perfume Guys Hit Parade can possibly be complete without this stunner: Have a great weekend, everybody! The ads shown here are from Parfum de Pub , Images de Parfum and Tauer Perfumes. |
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Miel de Bois
Review by Tom Miel de Bois is one that (metaphorically) separates the Men from the Boys. It's a honey scent, but one that is like no other. It opens with a harsh, concentrated sweetness that (for me, and I'm in the minority on this one) skates this side of {ahem} pungent. Honey, of course is perfumed by whatever flowers that the bees got the pollen from, hence the different kinds available in your local gourmet stores. Clover honey is almost a completely different honey that say Acacia or Girasole honey. The honey that opens Miel de Bois must have been taken from some very interesting bees indeed, ones that might have been getting pollen from wild boar. Wild boar with issues. All served in a box that was hewn by axe. Axe with issues. It's musky, resinous, woody, ozonic, boozy and in my opinion, wholly wonderful. Not to say that it didn't take some time for me to get to this point, at first I recoiled in horror. After 20 minutes or so, the spikey opening is gone, leaving a wonderful woody scent with accents of hawthorn and iris. The honey is still there, but not the killer-bees-on-crack of the opening, this is a muted sweetness that underscores the smoky wood and incense. It's immensely wearable in both summer and winter, and like a lot of SL's scents, it's entirely unisex (men, use a steady hand). Miel de Bois is in the export range, available at Aedes in New York, Barney's in the store (not online oddly), and sometimes on eBay from people who buy blind and swear it smells like cat pee. It strikes me re-reading this that I am being very flip; I do love this scent, much like one loves a kitten that one never knows when kitten will purr, or claw, but loves kitten nevertheless.. |
Wednesday, July 26, 2006
Perfume Review: MoslBuddJewChristHinDao, A Unifaith Fragrance by Elternhaus
Everything about MoslBuddJewChristHinDao, “A Unifaith Fragrance” by Elternhaus rubs me the wrong way, the cumbersome, awkward name, the affected, precious concept, the price. According to Elternhaus (“a family of unruly children”, which doesn’t make fashion but transports “an attitude to textiles and other carriers of thought via text”), “As an object, the perfume’s effect is multilayered…cosmically, aesthetically and sensually. It’s directed against limited partisan political and religious thinking, which always produces violence. For this reason, the Elternhaus perfume object may be understood politically, but if it had to be categorized, it would be, at the most, cosmopolitan.” The description very carefully omits to point out how exactly Elternhaus means to fight “limited partisan political and religious thinking” with their perfume. Does it make the world a better place just by the very fact of its existence? Should it be made morally obligatory for those at the wheel of power to wear it? Should the airplanes spray MoslBudd on the many war areas of our troubled little planet? If we all shell out $300 and start wearing this, would there finally be peace on Earth? And how about those unable to pay $300 for the honor of wearing this perfume? Is it not rather ironic that such a socially-politically-religiously-conscious scent, a scent so laden with deep, benevolent meaning, has such a hefty price? Is a significant part of the profits going to be devoted to some sort of REAL peacekeeping effort, to some actual anti-violent action, to the building of universal tolerance of all towards all? Because if not, this is no more (and no less) than just another fragrance. And that brings me to perhaps the most important question…what about this particular scent is so special, so miraculously wonderful that it makes it such an effective (non/anti)weapon against the evils of limited thinking? The answer, I am afraid, is…nothing. MoslBuddJewChristHinDao is a pleasant enough, slightly spicy woody-incensey fragrance that adds nothing new to the genre. It starts with rich, peppery incense and an enjoyably salty-savory note reminiscent of dill pickle marinade. The woody accord, rather similar to that in Donna Karan Wenge, grows stronger and is soon joined by an ambery, subtly incense-like, delicately floral note that I believe is labdanum. In fact, if you took Wenge, layered it with Labdanum and added some pickle juice, the result would be your very own ScentThatWillSaveTheWorld. MoslBudd is nice but not nearly nice enough to justify the ambitious premise and the grand price. Perhaps, I am just a slave of my limited thinking. Perhaps I put words into the mouths of Elterhaus “family” and, with their mission statement, they really mean nothing more than the good old Beauty Will Save The World proclamation. A perfume IS after all a piece of beauty, an art object, and as such does make this miserable Universe a little more bearable. But if so, other perfumes have been doing it for ages. A beautiful Guerlain scent, or, to take a more modern example, a gorgeous Lutens one, would have the same “multilayered effect” and be as cosmopolitan. The difference is that a Guerlain creation, even as or more expensive than MoslBudd, professes to be nothing more than a beautiful scent that might put the wearer into a pleasurable sort of reverie and perhaps into a better mood. The Sous le Vents and the Farnesianas and the Fumerie Turques of this world know their limitations. They are not “directed” against anything, they don’t promise to stop violence, to break barriers and to build universal tolerance. But they are beautiful, intriguing and they smell nice. Nothing less and nothing more. MoslBuddJewChristHinDao is available at Luckyscent, $300 for 50ml. The image is from Luckyscent.com. |
Tuesday, July 25, 2006
Perfume Review: Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge
Chypre Rouge is the latest fragrance to join the export part of Serge Lutens collection. The official description outdoes all the previous ones in its sheer poetical obscurity:
Chypre Rouge starts with a strange juxtaposition of a green, vegetal smell of celery and a dark, dry and smoky smell of coffee. It smells as bizarre as it sounds, and is quite wonderful. When immortelle joins the mix, Chypre Rouge becomes better still, since the note accentuates and enriches the spicy-vegetable aspect of the fragrance. Because of the immortelle note, Chypre Rouge reminds me a little of Annick Goutal Sables, however, the former lacks the syrupy thickness of Sables; at that stage of its development, Chypre Rouge is a much drier, much less sweet scent. At one point, I smell a sharply fresh-floral note that might be lavender and that, in conjunction with immortelle, makes me think of Dior’s Eau Noire. The woody accord of Chypre Rouge is smoky and warm, somewhat reminiscent of Chene…And, to conclude this orgy of comparisons, somewhere towards the end of the middle stage, Chypre Rouge acquires a sweet, darkly gourmand, licorice undertone, which makes it scarily evocative of my arch-enemy, Lolita Lempicka… Objectively speaking, the combination of sharp “vegetal” notes, smoky woods and sweet anise/licorice is striking and interesting. Despite the fact that I provided here a list of scents that somewhat remind me of Chypre Rouge, this is an entirely original, very interesting composition, certainly on a par with Lutens’ other weird and wonderful creations. Unfortunately, although I admire the idea and its execution, because of the Lempickaesque licorice drydown, I am unable to enjoy Chypre Rouge. I humbly predict, however, that the fragrance will have many fans, both women and men. I should also add that, like Cèdre and Daim Blond, Chypre Rouge is an Haute Concentration Eau de Parfum, and has great lasting power. Right now, Chypre Rouge is available at Senteurs dAilleurs in Brussels and at Salons du Palais Royal in Paris, however, it should be arriving to the States in the near future. |
Monday, July 24, 2006
Perfume Review: Guerlain Bois d'Armenie
Bois d’Armenie is delicate and transparent, it is a vision of an ethereal, light smoke emanating from the burning incense, or, as the case might be, from Papier d’Arménie, the scented paper used as incense since the 16th century, which served as an inspiration for this fragrance. Patchouli is immediately apparent from the very beginning, as is iris, but these two notes do not show their earthy side here. They are airy, wraithlike. The rose is there too, but it is a gentle, eerie rose, not a ripe, sensual flower in full bloom. The sweet piquancy of coriander is rather subdued, the musk is but a hint, and the woods are soft. The scent speaks in delicate whispers; it evokes an image of a beautiful ghost, of an almost-translucent apparition. It is the scent of a spirit; it is bodiless. Bois d’Armenie is undoubtedly beautiful; it is masterfully and thoughtfully done. Along with Rose Barbare, it is certainly the most interesting of the now four fragrances in the L'Art et la Matière collection. I must admit that I expected a more intense, earthier, woodier, darker scent, however, the more I wear Bois d’Armenie the more I appreciate this attractive, understated, soulful blend. As far as I understand, Bois d’Armenie is currently sold only at Guerlain’s Champs Elysées store in Paris and costs €140 (please, correct me, if I am wrong). The first image is from La Maison Guerlain. The second, Black Smoke, is from Sxc.hu |
Saturday, July 22, 2006
New Scent from Ormonde Jayne, Orris Noir
According to The Times, a new Ormonde Jayne fragrance, Orris Noir, will be launched at the end of the month. "It’s called Orris Noir, or Black Iris, and it’s a spicy Oriental. It’s got pink pepper, cardamom, iris (obviously), coriander seed, bergamot, pimento berries, myrrh and patchouli in it, among other things. It’s one of those perfumes that is both comforting and sensual; it’s exotic but not overpowering, and it smells like a classic even though it’s new." |