Contact High: The new Cannabis fragrances from Aether Arts and DSH Perfumes -And a Prize Draw!
By Donna
Colorado was one of the first states in
the U.S. to legalize marijuana, and as it happens, that is also where
two talented indie perfumers happen to live and work. I am sure that
the backers of the movement to decriminalize this ancient plant did
not anticipate that one of the “side effects” would be the
inclusion of it in perfumery, but that's what happened. I am here to
tell you that these are not novelties or jokes, they are real,
quality fragrances that are very enjoyable to wear.
The intensely green fougère
called Agrestic from the Cannabis Culture Collection by DSH
Perfumes (all of which I
tested in the concentrated oil formulation) made me sit up and
take notice because it manages to do something I never expected - it
reminded me of one of my very favorite classic chypres, the original
Jean-Louis
Scherrer, because of its depth and dark green character. Had
I smelled it and not known that it contain cannabis, I would not have
dreamed it was in there. There is also a gorgeous hay note of course,
and the combination of that with the cannabis works effortlessly. I
never could stand the smell of marijuana smoke, but the heady, leafy
aroma of the fresh plant is another thing altogether. It makes an
excellent stand-in for patchouli and other aromatic herbal notes
commonly used in fragrance, and in Agrestic it contributes to the
overall green mood I love so much.
The Green House is a feast for
the senses, especially for gardeners; just one sniff and you have
suddenly entered a warm, humid hothouse, with the clean earthiness of
the soil and the breath of living plants hanging in the damp air. It
is remarkably true to the real thing and I could not help smiling as
I breathed it in. The top notes don't last very long, and it soon
segues into a pleasing and mild green phase with a light, lemony
quality and a touch of hay. This one is perfectly safe for the office
and no one will ever know your little secret.
If you prefer something that gives more
of a nod to the characteristic smell of marijuana, you will enjoy I
Love You Mary Jane. It has the sweet stickiness of the fresh bud
blended with fruity and floral notes. Such diverse ingredients as
jasmine, osmanthus, Damask rose, blackberry, mango, rhubarb,
grapefruit and yuzu contribute to its unique profile, and its
complexity kept me coming back to press my nose to my arm as the
kaleidoscope of scents unfolded. Using rhubarb was a stroke of
genius, its sour juiciness a perfect mate for the pungency of the
cannabis. I Love You Mary Jane is unapologetic about its origins, and
that is part of its considerable charm.
The final fragrance in the DSH Perfumes
collection is Rocky Mountain High, and it features something
that is new to me in perfumery – skunk accord. Yes, she went there;
but don't worry, none of our little striped friends were harmed in
its making. In this creation, the cannabis is paired with the skunk
and with woodsy evergreens – balsam fir, juniper, cypress – and
various green herbal notes such as clary sage, basil and galbanum. A
profound base of hemp, frankincense and amber rounds out the
composition, which smells for all the world like a high end masculine
scent from a luxury niche house. The skunk accord has the effect of
creating a sexy, musky vibe that underlies the rather somber mix of
dark green shades, and it ends up being an imposing and mature
fragrance that's easy to wear yet entirely suitable for formal
occasions. It is this one out of the four that best makes the case
for the use cannabis as one would employ patchouli in a fragrance.
Amber Jobin of Aether
Arts Perfumes has also launched a new fragrance that features
cannabis, and it is a world apart from the DSH scents. Incense
Indica is her take on a classic, even ancient, style of perfume,
and it's a Folger's
Crystals®
moment – she has substituted cannabis for frankincense,
which would normally be the centerpiece of an incense fragrance, and
yes, we did notice. This is a knockout of a perfume, and
incense lovers are in for a treat. (I never thought I would say this,
but I did not even miss the frankincense, which is one of my favorite
things in perfume.) Incense Indica is the latest entry in the Burner
series; each year, Ms. Jobin makes a perfume inspired by the Burning
Man festival in the Nevada desert and its unique subculture
of free expression. It is lush and rich, all honeyed smoke and sex
and dark earthiness from cannabis resin and myrrh, embellished with
Sambac jasmine, this must be one of the the least “churchy”
incense perfumes I have ever smelled. Its longevity is approximately
forever. This style of perfume is not for everyone, but for those who
appreciate a good incense this will surely deliver the goods.
This is not the first cannabis perfume
Ms. Jobin has made – her 2011 Burner scent, the green chypre A
Roll In The Grass, was very nicely done and highly wearable –
my review of it it here.
Thanks to the generosity of both
perfumers, we are giving away two prizes! Aether Arts is offering a
5.5 ml roller ball of Incense Indica, and DSH Perfumes will give a 1
dram miniature of concentrated perfume oil of the winner's choice of
any one of the four Cannabis Culture Collection perfumes. This is
a worldwide draw, open to everyone; please be sure to specify
whether you want to enter the draw for Aether Arts or DSH Perfumes.
The draw will close one week after the publication of this review.
Good luck!
Image
credit: Abstract cannabis motif from wallpaperscraft.com
Disclosure:
All the samples for this review were sent to me for testing by DSH
Perfumes and Aether Arts.
Labels: Aether Arts Perfume, Donna, DSH Perfumes, indie perfumes |