Scents of Place: The Artisan Advantage

By Donna The debate over natural versus synthetic perfumes is ongoing, and both viewpoints have their proponents. It is generally agreed that mixed media compositions are usually the most successful artistically, while purely synthetic scents can lack character and seem faceless or cheap. Naturals often have issues with longevity and the unavoidable limiting factor of fewer source materials to work with. However, there is one thing that fragrances with a high percentage of natural materials can do that synthetics cannot, in my experience; evoke an actual sense of place, and “three dimensional” impressions of the real world. It is true that any aroma, not just of a perfume, can trigger a memory or an emotion. Fragrances can do it by design, and a skilled perfumer can orchestrate smells to bring forth a complex array of sensations. This is where artisan perfumery displays one of its greatest strengths – without accountants, focus groups and brand managers looking over their collective shoulders, they are free to follow their own ideas to conclusion and draw the rest of us into their world. I am highlighting just a few of these ideas from recent introductions by some of our most talented fragrance artists. Shelley Waddington of En Voyage Perfumes created Rainmaker to celebrate her new hometown of Portland, Oregon (which is also where I live) and its unique cultural vibe. Appropriately, it has an ozonic note, but it also has a grounded feel to it. To me it smells like a wet day in the city when it has just been raining and the evaporating moisture fills the air, amplifying the smells of wet pavement, old trees, muddy earth, bark mulch, grass and crushed flowers under a dramatic sky. Anything with a petrichor note will capture my attention, and this one gets it just right. In other words, it smells very much like an idealized version of my own neighborhood, and if I step out into my garden on such a day I will have a very Rainmaker experience. It has a cologne-like transparency, yet it maintains its fresh appeal for a long time into the drydown, a testament to what a well-judged blend of naturals and synthetics can accomplish. Truly unisex, the appeal of this easy to live with scent is very broad. The opposite of the cool wet Northwest is the desert, a place Amber Jobin of Aether Arts Perfumes knows well; Red Dodecahedron is the latest in her Burner series based on her annual pilgrimage to the Burning Man festival in Nevada. The immediate sensation from this fragrance for me is sun-baked dust sifting into everything; I have no idea how this was done but it’s very impressive. It does not stop there, but continues to develop into a sensual fragrance that includes black pepper, chamomile and a base of woods and resins including frankincense and sandalwood. It also has an animalic quality, bringing to mind the earthy denizens of Burning Man. After being in the desert sands, a cool beverage is most welcome, and her new Strawberry Sling perfume oil just hits the spot. This is a scent that emerged from the perfumer’s own experience of sipping a cocktail while smelling flowers blooming nearby, and it’s so delicious that it should have a warning label on it that says “do not drink.” A blend of lemon-scented natural essences results in the exhilarating zest of freshly squeezed Meyer lemons, mixed with a spot-on vodka accord accented with rosemary and a strawberry note paired with rose. I really loved this one, and I am hoarding my sample to wear when summer comes around again and it’s too hot for most other kinds of perfume. This is a textbook example of the kind of fun, offbeat work to emerge from the studios of indie perfumers who have free rein over their own work. Sometimes a perfumer chooses to pay homage to Mother Nature in a more specific way; in The Voices of Trees, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes creates a scent that feels like an evergreen forest, with richly balsamic resin perfuming the air as the trees tower overhead, swaying gently in the wind. As narrow as its focus is, it is more than just a “smell” and works perfectly as a fully realized fragrance. I can’t open the vial without thinking of the woods behind my house when I was a child, a place where I spent endless hours among the pine, spruce and hemlock trees. Another recent DSH creation, the limited edition La Belle Saison evokes the sensation of fresh lilacs in the spring. Unlike virtually all other lilac perfumes, which are reconstructions that contain synthetics, this is an all-natural composition that gives the impression of lilacs without the usual photo-realistic aroma found in most of them, and contains no actual lilac. Instead, the effect is of being in a garden that has lilacs blooming but which also encompasses the other aromas of spring – green leaves, wet grass, drifts of scent from other flowers. It is as fresh and delicate as a rain-drenched panicle of white lilac blossoms, its beauty even further enhanced by its extrait de parfum concentration. It’s not just places that can be conjured up by a fragrance. In the masterful Memento Mori from Aftelier Perfumes, natural perfumer Mandy Aftel has advanced her alchemical art yet again with a stunning creation that is sure to bring to mind not only familiar places, but a human presence. Just inhaling the scent from the vial resulted in a swirl of emotions and half-remembered flickers of the past. I felt as though I had arrived home on a cold winter night and entered a place filled with warmth; standing in the doorway of a comfortable old farmhouse filled with the sweetness of wood smoke and the funky dampness of drying-out wool coats, the lingering aftermath of baking, and most of all the musky, physical embrace of a beloved person. It is remarkable how much this fragrance evokes a living being; if you have ever held a sweater or robe that belonged to someone you loved and missed and breathed deeply of it to bring them closer, you have some idea of what Memento Mori is like. It almost feels too private to wear in public places, being meant for either solitude or closeness; on skin it gradually becomes almost unnervingly intimate, like skin-to-skin contact with a lover, and capable of bringing strong emotions to the surface unbidden. It is powerful and beautiful, but not in the least pretty. It may seem strange to ascribe such power to a perfume, but I think anyone who smells this will fall under the same spell. Image credits: Rainy day wallpaper from crafthubs.com; Vintage strawberry patterned (actual) wallpaper detail from Etsy seller wallpaperyourworld; “Lilac Party” wallpaper from desktopnexus.com; lighted doorway at night wallpaper from desktopimages.com. Disclosure: I received free samples from all the perfumers whose perfumes I reviewed in this post.

Come in from the cold: Winter and holiday offerings for 2015 from Aftelier Perfumes

By Donna Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes has made a habit of delighting us just when we need it most, in the dreary days of winter. This season we are presented with a new perfume, a different version of another, and a long-awaited addition to her line of organic artisan teas. All new for 2015 is Vanilla Smoke, which through some sleight of hand actually smells more like real smoke than many fragrances with synthetic ingredients; the effect comes from a special extract of Lapsang Souchong tea that has been smoked over pine wood. I have to admit that smoky perfumes and I do not always get along, and when I first put this on, I smelled just like Henri Bendel's Firewood candle – one of the best there is, but not something I would want to wear on my skin. Fortunately this effect subsided as it warmed up and the vanilla note began to expand. It is a decidedly non-foody Madagascar vanilla absolute, deep and dark and woody, the perfect mate for the smoke. The composition is wrapped in a veil of real ambergris, which acts as the binder to make the whole thing seamless and velvet-smooth and gives it extraordinary longevity. This new introduction is available in both eau de parfum and extrait; the latter is almost supernaturally rich and dense and a bit less smoky to my nose than the eau de parfum; it's a showcase for the vanilla and ambergris. Wear it for the most special of occasions; it stays close to the skin, but those who do get close will be mesmerized. I tested the fabulous Bergamoss when it was launched in solid form, and now it is available as a liquid perfume for a limited time. I may even like it better in this formulation, if that is possible; it is opened up, sharp and distinctive, punched up with a shot of bitter-green the way I like my chypres, yet still imbued with the beauty of the florals and the marvelous essence of the aromatic flouve grass. The bergamot is very forward in this version, while the solid is softer and mossier, with some sweetness added from the creamy base itself. The eau de parfum is striking, exhilarating, and vibrant, the perfume equivalent of a beautiful woman in a daring green dress who turns heads the moment she enters a room. We are so very lucky to have American perfumers making real chypres at a time when European firms are hobbled by EU/IFRA restrictions - I say bring it on, and since this is a limited edition, get it while you can, it is superb.                                                                                 And the tea – oh my, the tea! It has been two years since the launch of the original three perfumed teas from Aftelier, which are wonderful, and the new Orange & Cardamom black tea, using flavorings from Aftelier's wonderful Chef's Essences, was worth the wait. Cardamom is my favorite of all the sweet spices, but dosing is key; too little and it can be overpowered by other aromas, too much and its highly pitched woody character can do its own overwhelming. This is judged just right, blending the sharp brightness of cardamom with a sweet and inviting blood orange, which also happens to be one of my favorites so far from the Chef's Essences line. The tea itself is top shelf rolled black tea pearls of exceptional quality, of course. This is a treat for cold mornings curled up on the couch and relaxing, savoring every sip, and a worthy addition to the lineup. Image credits: “Golden Smoke” wallpaper from 99wallpapers.net, art by T Glow. One of my favorite photos of actress Elizabeth Taylor, in a publicity shot from 1951's “A Place In The Sun.” Disclosure: The samples of all the products in this review were sent to me by Aftelier Perfumes.

Foodie Sunday: New scented teas from Providence Perfume Company

By Donna When I heard that Providence Perfume Company was introducing a new line of organic perfumed teas, I knew I was in for a treat, since I already love Charna Ethier's creative natural fragrances, and when I received them for testing I was not disappointed. All six varieties of these “A● Poth● A● Care” loose teas are outstanding, and very different in character; there is something for everyone in this lovely selection. Perhaps the gentlest of the group is Green Pearl, a classic green tea that is presented in the traditional rolled “gunpowder” style. It is so easy to drink and as smooth as one could wish for. When a tea is as unadorned as this it has better be of top shelf quality, and this is some of the best green tea I have ever come across, with a hay-like aroma and none of the astringency one might expect of this style of tea. Drink this when you are in a meditative mood, or when you need a calming influence. I sampled Yuzu Breakfast when the weather was still very warm, and it's just perfect for a summer morning. The formula is a little twist on the tried and true orange spice formula – the tea is the bold black pekoe found in the major supermarket brands and such teas as Constant Comment®, but the citrus component here is orange peel and the amazingly aromatic Japanese yuzu fruit peel, which lies somewhere between grapefruit and bergamot and is very zesty and exhilarating. No other flavoring is needed, and you will really look forward to waking up with this in your cup. Orange Blossom Oolong is so delicious I was wishing that it also came in perfume form while I was drinking it – maybe I can persuade Ms. Ethier to make some? I have always been a fan of the subtle yet complex flavor of oolong tea, and the other ingredients in the blend enhance it without masking its essential delicacy. It has a sublime orange flower and jasmine aroma and a soft, creamy personality. I am sure this one will be a favorite with true tea connoisseurs. I have been an Earl Grey tea purist for almost as long as I have been a tea drinker, which is a very long time. I was a little bit skeptical of messing with the basic formula, but Earl Grey & Lavender won me over very easily. The lavender in the mix is very refined and sweetly floral, not at all soapy, and it's a perfect partner for the lively freshness of the bergamot. This is also a green tea version of Earl Grey instead of the usual black tea, which may be a concern to other purists, but it really works here. For those who like a richly flavored tea with a fruity character, look no further than Brambleberry Rose. I really love this one, which combines fine black tea with locally grown organic rose petals, raspberries, strawberries, cocoa nibs and Madagascar vanilla. The result is a deliciously jammy rose tea, rich and incredibly fragrant. (It seems like most companies that make a rose tea just can't resist adding hibiscus, which makes the tea too puckery, but that's thankfully absent from this formula.) This is the perfect thing for high tea accompanied by delectable desserts and strawberries with cream, and another one that should be a perfume too! Last but certainly not least is Violetta, which is just ridiculously good. Green tea leaves that have been dried with night blooming jasmine to impart a floral quality are blended with Tahitian vanilla bean, violet extract and blue cornflowers. It reminds me very much of those violet-scented pastille candies, but without the chalkiness those can sometimes have. The sweet violet scent is true and so very pretty, like a breath of early spring on the breeze, and the flavor is truly unique. This is a strong contender for my favorite along with Brambleberry Rose, but thankfully I don't have to choose. You just can't go wrong with any of these. Image credit: Violetta tea label art by permission of Providence Perfume Company Disclosure: I received my samples directly from Providence Perfume Company.

Pagans and Petrichor: New Burning Man fragrances from Aether Arts Perfume

By Donna Perfumer Amber Jobin of Aether Arts Perfume makes a pilgrimage each year that most of us can only wonder about; she attends the annual Burning Man festival in the vast Black Rock Desert of Nevada. This celebration of art, music, creativity, personal expression of every kind and any number of things that are almost certainly banned in Boston is an ongoing inspiration for her, and the “Burner” series of perfume oils is a tribute to its influence on her aesthetic. I am very pleased to review the two newest scents in the series, which showcase Ms. Jobin's impressive and growing talent. Sensuality is one of the main associations many people have with Burning Man – the “let it all hang out” dress code and encouraging of uninhibited behavior results in a a potent stew amounting to what may be the largest gathering of free spirits on the planet. Black Rock City is the embodiment of this atmosphere, an earthy, sexy perfume that cannot be mistaken for anything ordinary or tame. Named for the temporary community of thousands that springs up every year and then vanishes at the festival's conclusion, it was created in 2010 and only released to the public in 2015; Black Rock City is Number 1 in the Burner series. It is 95 percent natural and combines timeless desert essences like sage, mesquite and cedar in a deep, resinous composition that somehow evokes the scent of warm bodies to my nose, even though it is also quite dry and woody. It has a subtle vanillic sweetness from mesquite blossoms – an essence I have never smelled in a perfume before now – and is grounded in a base of cedar and mesquite wood. This deceptively simple formula is very long-lasting and complex, and must be experienced on skin for the full effect, as it just keeps getting better as the hours pass. On the opposite end of the fragrance spectrum, Reflection (Burner No. 6) captures the sensation of the desert after a rare rainstorm, ominous with thunder and lightning yet brimming with life as thirsty desert plants spring up virtually overnight and flowers open their blooms to the sky after a long drought. The sensation of rain-washed earth evoked by this fragrance is astonishingly true to life, and it succeeds where so many have failed in capturing the exhilarating post-rain aroma known as petrichor. I have never been a big fan of ozone scents (exception: Ms. Jobin's own Argent, see link in first paragraph), mainly because they almost never seem to get it right, but this one does, blending the sharp, penetrating character of ozone with the tender scent of flowers and the soft wetness of still rain pools. Sage, mesquite and cedar make appearances here too, along with cactus flower, yucca flower and sage blossom accords. Even though it shares ingredients with Black Rock City, the two fragrances are worlds apart in style; Reflection is a testament to the artistic possibilities of mixed media perfumery, being 45 percent natural and 55 percent synthetic. (Both fragrances are made in oil form equal to 45 percent extrait, so their longevity is impressive.) The two can also be layered together for a truly unique experience; in fact, that works wonderfully well on my skin. The extremes of wet ozone and dry wood cancel each other out just enough to allow the lighter herbal and floral notes to shine, like the breath of green plants rising from the warming earth as the rain evaporates under the desert sun. I give an enthusiastic thumbs up to them both, either by themselves or in combination. Image credit: Lightning storm in the Black Rock Desert, Nevada wallpaper photo via tophdwallpapers.club. Disclosure: I received my samples for testing from Aether Arts Perfume.

Secrets in the night: Forbidden Love natural perfume from La Fleur by Livvy

by Donna I only recently discovered the work of natural perfumer Olivia Larson of La Fleur by Livvy, but I was very impressed with her as an emerging talent. Now she is launching a new fragrance that elevates her work to a new level, and I am honored to be among the first to review it. Forbidden Love is the story of a young Japanese man's hopeless yearning for a beautiful Geisha, a woman who is not allowed to have a personal life but who must always follow the strict rules of her profession and submit to duty over emotion. I will let the perfumer's own vision speak here: “I see her silhouette as she gracefully floats in Zori. Her obi tied in a simple knot. The nape of her neck is exposed as she turns around the corner at the street lamp. She has no idea that I wait for her passing each night on the way back from the tea house. Her kimono smells of a rich scent; a combination of orange blossoms, vanilla and lilies laced with tobacco. The Cypress trees and full moon heighten my senses. At that very moment a gentle waft of burning incense catches my breath from temples nearby. I am in love with her but she can never love me back for it is forbidden to love.” This timeless theme has been translated into a fragrance that bypasses the usual Orientalist cliches and truly touches the heart. It is tender and wistful, a scent of longing, subtle yet richly layered. Every major ingredient in this perfume has a connection to Japan, including something I thought I would never encounter – real lily essence. Virtually all modern “lily” fragrances, even the best ones, are constructions assembled from various aroma chemicals, since the lily blossom only yields her precious oil grudgingly, and the process of extracting it is too laborious and expensive to be done on a large commercial scale. Ms. Larson has found a source for the real thing, a natural oil made from the majestic Lilium auratum of Japan, which is famous for both its dazzling beauty and its powerful scent. I knew I was experiencing something very special the first time I smelled this fragrance; the inclusion of vanilla brings to mind another Japanese lily, Lilium speciosum, with its exquisite “French perfume” aroma. Most people are familiar with the popular florist lilies 'Star Gazer' and Casa Blanca' which are bred from these iconic Japanese blossoms – now imagine opening a bottle of perfume and having that amazing smell emerge. The remaining notes mesh with the lily and vanilla as gracefully as a Geisha's movements. Lotus and orange blossom enhance the floral beauty of the lily, cypress adds an element of green mystery, and tobacco leaf, benzoin, green tea and vodka hint at the atmosphere of the private rooms where wealthy men pay exorbitant prices to be presented with the talents of her ancient art behind the sliding screens; the tea ceremony, classical dancing, the spare, haunting music of the Shamisen, and clever conversation that makes a man feel flattered and important. Yet it is he who in thrall to her charms, much as I am enamored of Forbidden Love; at last I have found the lily perfume of my dreams. This perfume will be available for purchase at La Fleur by Livvy's web site beginning on November 1, 2015. You can also read what some other perfume bloggers think about Forbidden Love at Fragrantica, Çafleurebon and Art and Entertain Me. Image credit: Forbidden Love images provided by La Fleur by Livvy; lily photo and collage by the author. Disclosure: I received my sample for testing from La Fleur by Livvy.

A beacon of light in the gloom: Bergamoss solid perfume by Aftelier

By Donna Recently I was thinking about why I like chypre fragrances so much. Obviously I love the way they smell, but apart from that, the true chypres all share a common thread; they clearly owe much of their character to natural materials, and in general those materials are of good quality. From the high opening note of bergamot through the floral heart and down into the base of resins and moss, they are grounded in nature. Whether it is the animalic elegance of Miss Dior, the wistfully rosy beauty of Houbigant's , Demi-Jour or the bitter-green oakmoss overdose of Jean-Louis Scherrer, the chypre structure in all its guises owes its integrity to things that can't be made in a laboratory. (Don't even get me started with the so-called “modern chypres” that were born of necessity out of restrictions on naturals.) As much as I appreciate contemporary perfumes made into abstract works of creative art with the use of aroma chemicals, those which are made with nothing but those lack heart and soul, like a computer-generated image of a “perfect woman” whose expression is a vacuous stare and whose face is boring in its eerie symmetry. For the real deal, I reach most often for my collection of vintage chypres, made before the days of nanny states, bureaucratic overreach and multinational detergent companies acquiring perfume houses. Now we have another entry in the genre that could easily be a throwback vintage scent, but it's an all new fragrance called Bergamoss from Aftelier Perfumes, and it is only available in solid form. Mandy Aftel wanted to make a true chypre fragrance and decided that it would work best as a solid. After testing it, I cannot disagree; it's so good I want to slather it all over myself and live in it 24/7. Bergamoss is 100% natural, like all Aftelier perfumes, and it has the true chypre building blocks but with some unexpected companions. The exhilarating top notes of bergamot and wild sweet orange are bright and uplifting, like sunlight knifing through a dense forest canopy to reach the ground below. As the perfume warms on skin, it opens up to reveal a dreamy, expansive heart featuring ripe peach and nutmeg, a combination I have not encountered before but of which I heartily approve. This pastoral effect is heightened by the use of a most rare material called flouve, which is an absolute of a sweet grass that has a heartbreakingly beautiful aromatic character and gives the the wearer the feeling of being in a broad, romantic meadow filled with waving midsummer grasses drying into hay and interwoven with scented wildflowers. Of course, the base has plenty of real oakmoss, the cornerstone of all true chypres, along with antique civet and coumarin, the latter of which enhances the impression of the flouve. I have to say that flouve is my new perfume crush – every time I wear this fragrance I smell something different in it, as there seems to be no end to its aromatic revelations. The solid formula adds yet another dimension, with its sensuous, luxuriant feel when applied to the skin. Bergamoss has it all – it's refreshing, bright, sweet, floral, spicy, green (literally and figuratively so), mossy, earthy, rich, animalic and profound. Classic perfume lovers rejoice; the art of the chypre is not lost, it's just living in the small studios of artisan perfumers who are keeping the flame burning. Image credit: “Enchanted Forest” from hdwallpapersos.com Disclosure: My testing sample was given to me by Aftelier Perfumes.

A gentle touch with flowers: La Fleur By Livvy Natural Perfumes

By Donna Every time I think I have tried all the best American indie perfumes, another interesting house seems to pop out of the woodwork and get my attention. Such an embarrassment of riches; no matter what style or genre of fragrance you like, somewhere there is something for you that was made in the U.S.A. And it just may be from Colorado too – this young brand hails from the same state as DSH Perfumes and Aether Arts. I am grateful to perfumer Olivia Larson for sending me samples of her line, La Fleur By Livvy. As you may imagine from the name, the focus is on florals as the centerpieces of the scents, which are my first love in perfumery. La Fleur By Livvy is an all-natural line too, so I knew I would not be getting the dreaded “over-exposed chemical floral” experience. As soon as I smelled White Lotus I knew I was on to something good. It is a soothing, soft and calming scent that smells true to its name, with none of the distracting aquatic accords that usually find their way into mainstream perfumes of this style. Surprisingly it also has vetiver, which usually does not go well with my skin chemistry, but here it is just right and smells refreshing and green, a perfect companion to the gentle lotus blossom. An unexpected base that includes tonka bean and cognac makes this one linger longer than what might be expected of a natural floral. Expecting more in the same vein, I tried A Parisian Affair and got a big surprise – there is nothing shy or demure about this one! It smells not unlike a modern version of Lanvin’s My Sin, one of my all-time favorites. Rich notes of lilac and champaca meld with vanilla and pine – an odd combination but somehow it works and smells for all the world like a classic feminine floral perfume from the golden age of perfumery. This is a truly sensuous fragrance and lasts well on the skin. If you are a fan of retro and vintage-inspired perfumes, I recommend this very highly. Another big floral in the line is Fleur de Seduire, which fills the narcotic white floral slot quite handily. The jasmine in this one is very heady, and I think I smell tuberose too although it is not a listed note. It's not a huge, knockout white floral like Fracas or A La Nuit, so it can be worn more easily, but make no mistake, it will be noticed. A base of frankincense and myrrh brings to mind one of my favorite discontinued perfumes, Jo Malone's Vintage Gardenia, so anyone who has been missing that one needs to try Fleur de Seduire. It is indeed a scent of seduction but in a more subtle way than conventional white floral perfumes; it beckons and mesmerizes instead of using the stun gun approach. Fleur de Mystere makes me think of a classy red-haired woman with green eyes; it just seems like the kind of fragrance such a woman would wear. It opens with a one-two punch of bergamot and geranium, and the heart of peach, ylang ylang and rose is offset by a generous yet well-balanced dose of fresh, soapy patchouli in the base. It is sporty yet sophisticated and one of those perfumes that can ease seamlessly from day to evening. The green-eyed lady can wear her riding habit or form-fitting Forties suit in the morning and a bias-cut satin gown at night, but her fragrance remains the same.  One of my favorites in the line is Fleur d'Aspiration, a delicate composition that has an aroma very similar to some of my most beloved flowers, Easter lilies and hostas, a cool, sweet and slightly haunting scent with freshness of bergamot and the exquisite smell of tropical frangipani. It is the fragrance equivalent of finding a spot in the shade on a hot day. Its only flaw is its fleeting nature, which is also the problem with Fleur de L’Amour, a pretty and slightly soapy fruity-floral that seemed to vanish almost as soon as it hit my skin, so I could not really follow its development. I would be interested to know what it is like for other people, but my skin just does not hold on to it. It's not all about the flowers – the warmly herbal and balsamic Puck's Potion is a pastoral unisex fragrance inspired by the mischievous character in Shakespeare's “A Midsummer Night's Dream” that features a generous dose of oakmoss, which guarantees that I will like it, and it has a most enjoyable aroma like sweet summer hay. Tonka bean makes it cozy and cassis adds a touch of tangy fruit. It also has an unusual ingredient, lily absolute – in commercial perfumery, the use of natural lily essence is virtually nonexistent due to its cost and the difficulty of extracting it, and many people think that all lily notes in perfume are constructions, but it does exist, and put to good use here where it creates a halo effect around the other notes, bathing the whole composition in a cloud of gentle flowers and spice. Lilies are my favorite flowers, so finding a perfume with both lily and oakmoss in it was like hitting the jackpot. Keep an eye on this house; I have a feeling that it will make a positive impact on the indie perfume scene. These fragrances others are available on the company's Web site. (And just look at the pretty little perfume vial you can have!) Image credits: Jasmine wallpaper from hdwpic.com. Romantic Parisian scene from freepik.com. Red haired woman from fresh-hairstyles.com, original source unknown. Blue heart-shaped mini perfume vial from lafleurbylivvy.com. Disclosure: The perfume samples were sent to me gratis for testing by La Fleur By Livvy.

A rainbow of delights: Providence Perfume Company's new oils collection

By Donna Anyone who is familiar with Charna Ethier's creative compositions for Providence Perfume Company will be pleased with her new collection of six all-natural oil perfumes, which are free of alcohol and very long-lasting. These came about as the result of customer requests and have been very well received. I am already a fan of her fabulous Beauty Elixir oil and other body products so I was eager to try these. I was especially interested in Rose 802, which was inspired by the scent of wild roses and blackberries growing in the countryside of Vermont – 802 is Vermont's area code. I was born there, and I wandered its verdant woods and meadows myself, so this one had a lot to live up to. I was not disappointed; this is a beautiful rose fragrance with blackcurrant, cedar and fir, and it's magical on my skin. Myrtle leaves impart a fresh greenness and a touch of vanilla adds the warmth of summer to the blend. (This is definitely not a rose soliflore, and I have to say that if you don't like blackcurrant bud, you probably won't like this.) Violet Beauregarde (after the Charlie and the Chocolate Factory character) fits nicely into the slot between a traditional floral perfume and a “candied violets” scent – flowers with just a touch of sweetness, and no melancholy. The violet is surrounded with jasmine, mimosa and ylang ylang, with sandalwood and vanilla providing an ideal base to showcase the florals. It is a very pretty perfume and would be perfect for a young girl's first fragrance, especially if she likes the Roald Dahl books. That said, it's also perfect for adults who appreciate a truly fine violet scent. The first thing to keep in mind about Orange Blossom Honey is that honey is the centerpiece; orange blossom is only a supporting character. It is deliriously sweet and thick, like a drowsy August day with bees humming all around the flower garden. When I was growing up in New England, we bought our honey locally – it was clover honey, sold in big buckets, very dark in color with an intensely earthy flavor. I thought all honey was like that. Then one day my grandfather brought home something exotic from the grocery store – orange blossom honey from Florida. It was a light amber color and intensely sweet, with a beautiful perfumey aroma. Smelling this oil brings me right back to that time, and I enjoyed this immensely. In a similar manner to Orange Blossom Honey, Sweet Jasmine Brown is anything but a straight-up jasmine perfume. I have never smelled a treatment quite like this; it brings out the delicious “banana jam” aspect of real jasmine and surrounds it with a sugary, musky warmth from vanilla, tonka bean, cocoa nibs and ambrette seed, and the inclusion of ylang ylang makes the floral character even headier. Anyone who is not used to natural fragrances should not expect to encounter the blindingly white sheen of the jasmine in department store perfumes, which is almost certainly augmented in large part by synthetics, if not entirely so. It is exactly those kinds of fragrances that makes some people think they don't like jasmine, and to them I would say, try this instead, and don't be surprised if it garners some very positive attention; this is one sexy scent! Summer Yuzu is more than just a breezy warm weather perfume. Since it's an oil, it lasts much longer on the skin than the equivalent style scent in an alcohol-based formula would be, so it can be enjoyed all day without reapplying. Yuzu is one of the most pleasing of all citrus aromas, combining the fresh bursting quality of grapefruit with the sweetness of mandarin and the sparkle of lemon and bergamot. (The perfumer cleverly added frankincense to extend its longevity.) Tomato leaf further enhances the sunny disposition of this one, and I can't imagine anyone not liking it. It is suitable for either men or women. Ivy Tower may be my favorite of the collection, although it would be hard to choose just one. It is indeed as green as its name, but it's a soft, deep, diffusive green with nary a sharp edge in sight. It won me over when I smelled the gorgeous narcissus, one of my favorite notes in all of perfumery; green florals were my first love and I have a weakness for this style of misty, wistful fragrance. As if that's not enough, it also features jasmine, ethereal mimosa and my beloved lily. It lasts all day on me, which is unusual for any green fragrance no matter what the formula is. Calling all green lovers, this is a must try! These oils come in a pretty roll-on bottle and are available at the company's boutique at 301 Wickenden Street, Providence, RI 02903 or on the Providence Perfume Company Web site, and if I may suggest it, the sample set of all six scents would make a wonderful holiday gift; they are generously sized and since you don't need to apply very much at a time with perfume oils, several wearings can easily be had from one vial. Image credit: Photo of the packaging for the roll-on perfume oils via providenceperfume.com Disclaimer: The sample set was given to me by Providence Perfumes for testing.

The subject was roses: Natural perfumes by JoAnne Bassett

By Donna I have to admit that that one of my earliest exposures to the work of natural perfumer JoAnne Bassett was less than ideal – back in 2011 I was one of the bloggers reviewing submissions for Monica Miller's Summer of Patchouli Love project, and JoAnne's contribution (submitted anonymously as “Number 10” and later revealed with the name Têtu) was my least favorite of the group. As a former “patch phobe” I had a hard time with her full-on interpretation of the theme. However, having tried some of her creations since that time, it's safe to say that my opinion of her work has reversed itself to the point where I would be more than happy to have her make me a custom perfume, which is one of the services she offers. Let's begin with Intimacy, a classic chypre in a decidedly vintage style, which is right in my sweet spot perfume-wise. It's slinky, deep-voiced and really beautiful. Had I not known it was a modern fragrance I would have sworn it was the kind of classic mid-century feminine that was once the rule rather than the exception, and it's even more impressive because it's all natural. Some of its ingredients are actually vintage, and when these are aged properly, they take on a smooth and polished character that's impossible to duplicate with new “raw” materials; vintage Jasmine, Mysore sandalwood, iris (orris) root and patchouli all lend their velvety qualities. It is enriched with Bulgarian rose and Rose de Mai, and of course real oakmoss, which is one of my very favorite things in perfume. The true chypre family has a worthy modern member; pardon me while I go change into my fringed flapper dress and rim my eyes with kohl. This is the real deal. The ridiculously pretty I Love You is a perfect marriage of rose and gardenia that showcases the best of both flowers; I could not decide if it was a deliciously buttery rose or a sweet, rosy gardenia. It is made with tender Rose de Mai and delicate Tiare (Tahitian gardenia) so it is lilting and soft while still emanating the true essence of the dominant notes. It is a fairly bright scent, but not too highly pitched, which can be an issue with synthetic floral notes, of which there are none here. A subtle base of sandalwood enhances the florals. This would be an ideal wedding fragrance, as romantic a scent as one could wish for. Malmaison is one of a collection of JoAnne's perfumes that pay tribute to historic characters and places – of course this one is about the garden of Empress Josephine, she of the famous rose collection and even more famous husband. Roses are here but so are many other flowers, including lavender. This is more of a classic French bouquet fragrance than a rose scent, and it's easy to imagine strolling through a sunny garden smelling each flower as you pass by. It is perhaps less complex than the others I have sampled but it's very charming and easy to wear. When a perfume is named Opulence it had better deliver on the promise, and this one does. Rich neroli and orange blossom are supported by rose otto, vintage Mysore sandalwood and real ambergris. It is rare to find a modern fragrance that contains ambergris, and what it does for a composition is hard to describe – it just makes it “more” of everything somehow, radiant even, richer and fuller. The rose in this is deep, wine-like and bold, and I picture it as being blood-red. In sharp contrast, Camille is an oh-so-tender floral with osmanthus, iris root (orris) and mimosa, but oddly enough it is not cool and pale as one might expect; astringent and a little sharp at first, the osmanthus develops into a warm apricot that smells a bit like a fruit tart just coming out of the oven and the mimosa is lovely without the slightly chilly feeling it sometimes engenders. Even the iris root is more inviting than aloof in this composition. It lasts well considering that it's both a natural and a floral. This one can go anywhere as it is sheer and subtle and very easy to wear. The name alone would make me want to try Sybarite, and it more than lives up to its billing. The word itself has always been a favorite of mine; for me it does not mean decadence or debauchery, but just pure pleasure in all things beautiful, and everything about Sybarite the fragrance is gorgeous. I have a weakness for this classic style of floral blend where no one thing overwhelms the composition, it all just works in harmony. Roses, orange blossom, neroli, osmanthus, frankincense, oud and musk are some of the expensive materials in this perfume, and its longevity is very good. This may be my favorite so far, although it's hard to pick just one. All of its notes are things I love and they all mesh gloriously together. One of the most luxurious scents in the range is Luscious Roses, which is exactly that – rich, rounded, lush blooms. As with many natural rose perfumes, it takes a little while to get settled in on the skin, and was even a little sour on me at first, but once it does begin to develop, it just gets better and better. It is reminiscent of true antique garden roses with their dense, almost powdery character and voluptuous archetypal fragrance that cannot be mistaken for anything else. I would not call it “jammy” per se but there is a bit of purple fruitiness lurking about in addition to the intense damask rose character, made even more sensuous with tuberose and frankincense. JoAnne seems to have a special talent for working with various rose essences in her perfume making, and if I were lucky enough to have someone create a bespoke fragrance for me I would ask her for a rose-centered one, in one of her stunning hand blown glass amphora bottles of course– or I could just wear Luscious Roses, since it's hard to imagine how it could be improved. All the fragrances mentioned in this review and many more, plus bath and body products and custom perfumes, are available via JoAnne Bassett's Web site. Image credits: Pink roses wallpaper from imgarcade.com. Amphora style perfume bottles from joannebassett.com, collage mine. Disclosure: The fragrance samples for this review were sent to me by JoAnne Bassett for testing.

Celebrating green: Jade and Verde from A Wing and a Prayer Perfumes - And a Prize Draw!

By Donna Summer may be winding down, but as a fan of green notes in perfume, I enjoy wearing such fragrances all year round and not just when it's hot. I don't usually wear lighter cologne style greens when it's cool, but there are others with all-season versatility. Two new natural scents by A Wing and a Prayer Perfumes are exactly that, and on top of that they are both excellent. Jade is literally a breath of fresh air with a most delightfully breezy beginning; it's like someone opened a window on a spring morning after a rain and let all the smells of a meadow come rushing in. It has a good dose of lavender in it yet it is not a predominantly lavender fragrance. It is difficult to make this distinctive material play well with others without taking all their toys and lunch money away and hogging the spotlight, but perfumer Jane Cate manages this feat deftly. Rose geranium, which can be too sharp sometimes, is tempered by a soft notes of jasmine, lilac and linden and its own natural affinity to the lavender. Bright citrus notes keep everything vividly alive throughout the life of the perfume. Jade's inspiration was the cool translucent green of celadon jade, a universally pleasing color, and the perfume is just as easy to love. When I first tested these fragrances, I thought I like Jade better than Verde, but now that I have lived in both of them for a while I find them equally inviting. Verde is drier, more sedate, and although it is more restrained than the exuberant Jade, it has an appealing, puckery juiciness from Meyer lemon and yuzu that persists through the entirety of its development. This is certainly a unisex scent (both of them are, really) and ideal for men who want something clean and citrus-based without resorting to the boredom of mainstream sporty masculines. It is also minty, a leafy, intensely green effect, like the tiny-leaved Corsican mint that grows in damp shady gardens. Fear not the dreaded toothpaste note, for you will not find it here - this is the mint of crushed leaves and iced tea on a hot summer night and is very easy to live with. The galbanum in this perfume is also understated; it is one of my favorite materials, and while it contributes its unique crispness to the composition, it maintains a delicate balance with the rest. If you love a good green scent, you need to try Verde. Its longevity is not as good as Jade's, but that is the nature of this style of perfume, and it is wonderful while it lasts. After all, you can always splash on some more! I have to mention another upcoming product from this house too – the new White Tea soy candle is on of the nicest scented candles I know of, with a refreshing yet calming lightly green aroma. It will scent a room even if it's not burning, and since it's all-natural it will not be overpowering. This candle will be a holiday limited edition beginning in November, so watch out for it; all products from this house can be purchased at the A Wing and a Prayer Etsy shop. And now for the best part: A Wing and a Prayer Perfumes is generously offering a ¼ ounce bottle of your choice of either Jade or Verde all natural perfume. (This offer is only open to residents of the continental U.S due to mailing restrictions, so please do not enter if you live elsewhere.) Leave a comment below stating that you would like to be in the draw, and please tell us what other green perfumes you enjoy if you so desire. This draw will be open for one week from the date of this post. Good luck! Image credit: Leaf design from terawallpaper.com Disclosure: The perfume samples and candle were sent to me for testing by A Wing and a Prayer Perfumes.

New artistic creations from DSH Perfumes: Metropolis, Scent of Hope and more

By Donna The prolific Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes is having an especially creative year, and that is saying a lot. Once again, she is showing us that no matter what the genre of fragrance or the challenge presented is, she will find a way to make Art from it, and I am in awe of the results.                                                                         One of my favorite new launches this year attained that status as soon as it hit my nose. Metropolis is nominally a masculine scent, but I fell in love with it immediately and I would recommend it to anyone who appreciates a truly modern perfume experience. Its character is elegant but not cold, an Art Deco piece translated into smell. Like a handsome vintage automobile, it's all about the lines; it has an easy grace and airiness that makes it sleek and streamlined, but with a sturdy underpinning of strength that gives it the power it needs. Along with such traditional notes as cedar, leather, oakmoss, musk, petitgrain, rose otto, and woods, it also includes “brushed steel, glass, concrete and motor oil” according to the official description. Because this is DSH we are talking about, these unconventional elements are abstracted and seamlessly integrated into the whole, so you know you are smelling something unusual but you can't really pin down what it is. If this perfume were a car, it would be one of those gloriously swoopy Pierce-Arrow, Bugatti or Delahaye classics, timeless and luxurious without seeming excessive in any way, just pure design for its own sake.                                                                            Another new sensation is the much-anticipated Scent of Hope, which was inspired by one of the rarest and most coveted perfumes of all time, Iris Gris by  the house of Jacques Fath from 1946. I have never smelled the original – few people ever have, it seems – but I have wanted to try it for many years, having read much about its legendary beauty. Now those of us who missed out on it no longer have to search to the ends of the earth for it, because Scent of Hope is sublimely lovely and well worthy of the acclaim it is receiving. Had I the power to alter time and space, I would create an infinite quantum loop wherein I could smell the opening notes of this perfume over and over again, it is so so ineffably exquisite. The lightest puff of peach, an alpenglow cloud of delicacy, arises from the skin mingled with the most refined iris note I have ever smelled. This initial impression soon subsides but never disappears completely; the unfolding of the perfume proceeds with the slightly sweet and subdued peach in perfect harmony with the iris, keeping it from becoming either rooty or metallic, as iris is wont to do at times. It also lasts surprisingly well, which I did not expect – I put it on one evening and I could still smell it on my skin in the morning. If you need any more reasons to try it, here are two: 1. It is only available in perfume extract form, the strongest concentration, and 2. 30% of sales will be donated to Sense of Security, a Denver-based organization that helps breast cancer patients in need with their treatment and living expenses.                                                                             Amid all the excitement of such creative fragrances, it's easy to forget this perfumer's mastery of of another style – the soliflore. “Simple” florals are seldom as easy to pull off as they seem, and indeed the perfumer is expected to make them smell as close as possible to the real thing, in contrast to more abstract scents that allow for artistic license to be taken. I am very happy that she has relaunched one of her older classics that I had never encountered before, White Lilac. I always have high hopes for lilac compositions, but some of them fail to capture the fragile beauty of these blossoms. White Lilac is everything I could ever want in such a perfume, closer to nature than any other lilac soliflore I know, sweet and pure and true to life, and it remains fresh and vibrant throughout its development. I gave a bottle to my younger sister for her birthday since it is her favorite flower and she adores it. She is the strictest judge of lilac scents I know and this one passed her test with flying colors.                                                                                                    One of my own favorite flowers is the peony, and DSH Perfumes' new Peony is one of the best of the genre, highlighting the rosy aspect of these lush, showy blooms rather than the sometimes overly sharp freshness that characterizes most peony scents. It will not be mistaken for a rose perfume though; it is clearly a tribute to the unique aroma of the flower, which gives off a sweet scent with a nose-tickling undertone that is sometimes just a little indecent, which to me is part of its charm. If you are seeking a peony perfume that actually smells like the real deal, seek no further. Image credits: The exceedingly rare 1933 Pierce-Arrow Silver Arrow, of which only five were ever made, from rarecars.co, orginal source unknown. Closeup photo of an iris flower from hdwallpaperpc.com. Vintage lilacs & roses wallpaper from the graphicsfairy.com. Disclosure: I purchased the samples of Metropolis, White Lilac and Peony for this review. My sample of Scent of Hope was given to me my DSH Perfumes.

Soft touch: The pastel world of Arts & Scents perfumes

By Donna If you have never heard of the Arts & Scents fragrance line from Germany, you are not alone, as it is not well known in the U.S.A. even though it has been in existence since 2010. After reading about this natural brand on another site I was very curious, because they sounded quite different from the dizzying array of new niche fragrances being launched almost daily. I am very glad that I was able to single these delightful scents out from the herd. The first one I tried was Dream of India and I was quite taken aback, in a very good way. I was expecting incense and spices and whatever else one thinks of regarding Indian perfumery motifs, but it was not anything like that. There is incense in it, but it the softest imaginable interpretation of it, a gentle and enchanting suggestion of Eastern delights. I imagined a literal dream, with gauzy veils draped above a bed in a darkened room where I lay half-asleep in the afternoon with the aroma of the perfume hinting at the vibrant life outside – languid champaca flowers, curry, masala spices, rosewater. There is an aura of cool stillness about it that is very restful, and I was drawn to it over and over again. A Day in Grasse evokes another kind of place; this one is about a sunny morning in the legendary rose fields; the day is young and the summer heat has not yet taken all the chill from the air as the heady aroma of roses drifts upon the air. If smelling this does not being a smile to your lips, nothing will. It is a fresh yet powdery rose, plump and cheerful, and definitely a vivid pink blossom, an unabashedly feminine perfume accented with the exhilaration of vetiver and red clover. There was a time when I did not care for powdery scents, and they are still a challenge for me, but A Day in Grasse is so beguiling and straightforward I can't help but love it. A must-try for rose and romance lovers. Equally charming is Cupido's Kiss, a bouncy fruit-laden creation that is just simply delicious. Sometimes a perfume does not have to be overly complicated to be good and this is a great example, bursting with juiciness and delivering a shot of pure pleasure. Underneath the fruit lies a beautiful bouquet of flowers waiting to surprise you, and another twist comes later – a warm, musky base that's decidedly sexy. It builds upon itself until it becomes a symphony of intense sensual pleasure, and I would happily buy a full bottle and splash it with abandon. Cupido's Kiss is one of those perfumes that reminds you of why you fell in love with fragrance in the first place – simply because is smells good and brings joy. This was a big win for me. There is just a touch of fruitiness in Light of Ormuz, which seems to be the closest thing to a dedicated masculine scent in the line – all of the scents are nominally unisex – and that abstract tang of fruit, green notes of mint and vetiver and a whisper of cedar complete this understated fragrance. It does not proclaim itself as being manly the way mainstream fragrances for men usually do; it is quiet, reserved and very attractive. As subtle as it is, it lasts surprisingly well. If this fragrance were a person, it would be the young Iranian man I once met who looked just like an idealized portrait of Alexander the Great – softly curling reddish chestnut hair, a perfect high bridged Greek nose, carved cheekbones and startling, icy grey eyes, a refined beauty yet not a “pretty boy” at all.  Wild Cat Musk does not quite display truth in advertising; the name made me think I was going to be smelling another Musc Ravageur, but this cat is a sweet, fluffy kitten that wants to snuggle but is also ready for some serious mischief. It really very wearable and I enjoyed it immensely. The opening has a chili pepper tingle and the musky quality is softened by hibiscus; I really love this combination of notes. I have never been a “musk person” although I enjoy smelling musky perfumes on others. I am always afraid that I am anosmic to the particular musk in the scent, as many people are, and that everyone around me is getting an overdose. That problem should not arise with Wild Cat Musk and I would wear it with confidence; it is possible to smell sexy and cuddly at the same time and this is the perfect example. Like most of the others from this house, it is soft-focus, gentle and highly wearable. Another that might be more of a masculine than not in concept is Cuero de Mexico, but a touch of sweetness along with the leather makes it perfectly unisex. The leather itself is of the sort found in Trussardi and Daim Blond, a civilized leather with a touch of daring, and it is supported by neroli and a light, delicate tuberose. The more I wore this the more I liked it, and I would suggest it to anyone who prefers their leather scents to be restrained and elegant. It has an open airiness, a sense of distance that feels like being on the road with the horizon rolling on before you with all its limitless possibilities, and it's another one from this brand of which a full bottle would be most welcome. I had a little trouble with Pan Tierra – something in it smells like brick dust and kept me from fully appreciating this well done gourmand fragrance. Even though it has caramel, coffee chocolate, tonka bean and vanilla, it is not really all that sweet, which is a good thing, since I enjoy gourmands more when they can breathe a little bit. I think the problem I have is that the chocolate is a dusty cocoa instead of a more “liquid” and darker chocolate note. For those who do enjoy this style and like a dry cocoa effect, I recommend trying it out. I saved Night & Dawn: A Vampire's Love for last – it is the most unlike the others in the line in its intensity and could easily have been one of the Devilscent perfumes, which is high praise coming from me. It is a stunner, a beautiful and unusual fragrance that would turn heads anywhere. It begins as a warm, sweet enveloping fruit scent, like sipping a glass of cordial in front of a cozy fireplace. Notes of lychee, tobacco flower and passion fruit blend with heady tuberose to create a luscious and decadent impression. As it develops on the skin, vanilla and sandalwood make themselves known, and it is all underlined with a particularly fine and profound patchouli that feels well aged and mellow and never overpowers the rest. This is one of my favorites of the group, and it's not just good “for a natural perfume” it's marvelous on its own merits. Besides, who can resist a perfume with the tag line “You are my heart's eternal night?” If this is what vampires are wearing these days, I am going over to the dark side right now. The fragrances of Arts & Scents: The Art of Creation are all created by Manuela Pfannes-Völkel and are available via the perfumer's Web site. Sample sets are available for purchase; you will also find several perfumes that are not included in this review. (I am very curious about Beach Flower and Coco Tango now and I really need to try something named Orange Planet Space Essence!) Disclosure: A set of perfume samples was sent to me for testing by Arts & Scents at my request. Image credits:Pastel globes wallpaper from belchfire.net. Kitten wallpaper from dsawallpapers.com. Art for Night & Dawn: A Vampire's Love from artsandscents.com