Perfume Review: LesNez The Unicorn Spell

According to René Schifferle, the idea behind The Unicorn Spell was that of “frostiness, violet, moonlight and transparency”. Somewhat contrary to that, I find this fragrance appealingly “substantial” and see it in vivid colors. It is predominantly purple, ornamented with luscious green in the beginning, bejeweled with lush dark-pink in the middle notes and enriched by the luxuriant brown in the drydown. The sweetly poetic name conceals the scent that is actually rather “dark”. The enchanted forest where unicorns dwell is full of black magic and hidden dangers. I would position The Unicorn Spell in the happy middle between the dry elegance of Violette Precieuse and the woody sweetness of Bois de Violette. It is has a hint of the cold austerity of the former and that of an almost gourmand feel of the latter. It is more of a violet “soliflore” than either. Usually, violet soliflores bore me to tears; they are too dainty for me. This one, however, is a wonderful exception. It is sumptuous, at times almost creamy, not in the least powdery and has a very satisfying “solid” feel about it. As René pointed out yesterday, this is not a “perfume for sweet little girls”. The violet is undoubtedly a queen here; it rules and dominates the composition. The other notes are there to compliment and enhance but never to obscure Her Majesty. They come to pass in the background, highlighting the beauty of the star note. The succulent and cold green top notes outfit the purple queen in a velvet gown the color of the charmed forest. The vaguely berry-like accord in the middle brightens her dress with glittering gems. The subtle woodiness of the drydown envelops her in a soft cloak dyed the brown of tree bark ... I smell some vanilla in the drydown, and it is this note that adds cashmere-like cuddliness to the base, making it somewhat reminiscent of the fluffy woodiness of Bois d'Argent. I am spellbound (pun shamelessly intended) by this beautiful, soulful composition. The Unicorn Spell is sold at LesNez.com, for approximately $68.00-$125.00 for regular bottles or $300.00 for the limited edition bottle encased in a sculpture by Gillian White (pictured). The photo of the bottle is from LesNez.com, the painting is The Gate by Christophe Vacher. Tomorrow, Part Deux of Tom's fearless exploration of an entirely different Nez- Nez a Nez line.