Perfume Review: Scent Systems Oeillet
Continuing on the topic of carnation fragrances I love...Scent Systems Oeillet is the newest addition to the very short list. Scent Systems was first founded by Hiram Green in 2003 and started as a perfume store in London, which carried the off-the-beaten track lines like Aftelier and CB I Hate Perfume; in 2005 Scent Systems developed a bespoke perfume service and recently it launched its first ready-to-wear fragrance collection created by perfumer George Dodd. Scent System's philosophy is to produce entirely natural perfumes, without restrictions on creativity and cost. Other scents in the collection include Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose and Wild Violet. I was lucky to get to sample all six scents, and it was Oeillet that, surprisingly, stood out to me the most.
According to Scent Systems:
"Generations have grown-up without realizing that carnation flowers, or oeillet, are supposed to have a heart-meltingly beautiful spicy floral scent."I certainly belong to such a generation. I am sure there are superior flowers out there that might melt my heart, but the carnations I am familiar with have a faint, pale, powdery smell inexorably related in my mind to Soviet military parades and funerals. A lot of carnation perfumes, if they don't have a twist of some sort, an oomph, a pizzazz, an exceptional lushness, bring those associations. A recent example of a carnation scent that is completely wrong for me would be Etro's dainty and timid Dianthus. I also have trouble with very powdery carnation scents, like Caron's classic Bellodgia. The list of carnations done to my taste up till now consisted of Patou's creamy Adieu Sagesse, Prada's creamy-and-spicy Iris parfum, and Sara Horowitz-Thran's warm Love.
What makes Scent System's rendition right for me? The sumptuousness, the lack of aggressive clove note, the almost complete lack of powder, the multi-faceted quality of the composition. I love the fact that one of facets is green, and not just any boring green but the elegant, deep green of galbanum. The sweeter herbal verdancy of clary sage compliments it wonderfully and highlights a wilder, rustic side of carnation. The creamy facet that becomes apparent in the heart of the fragrance is also incredibly appealing to me. I love when the naturally piquant carnation is contrasted with smooth, fluffy softness, and the velvety, enveloping heliotrope-vanilla accord is delightful here, paired with the spicy star note. Subtle patchouli finishes the development of the scent on an earthy note. The fragrance is sharp and velvety-soft, urbane and bucolic, untamed; complex and certainly fit for the connoisseurs of carnation scents but extremely wearable and approachable for the carnation-wary like me.
Oeillet is avaialble at scent-systems.com, £229.00 for 17ml of perfume.
The image is courtesy of Scent Systems.