From the start, Spiritueuse Double Vanille had one crucial factor working against it: I do not like scents with vanilla playing a title role. The only way to cause me to like a vanilla perfume is to make it about much more than just vanilla. In other words, I don't do Vanilla Monologues. I want a play with lots of strong supporting characters. Guerlain's "exclusive" and Limited Edition new release, Spiritueuse Double Vanille, which features additional notes of benzoin, frankincense, spices, cedar, pink pepper, bergamot, Bulgarian rose and ylang-ylang, is a vanilla I can do.
The beginning of the fragrance has a subtle boozy feel, a quality that I invariably enjoy. It smells like a sweetly spicy alcoholic drink...not quite as strongly aromatic as, say, absinthe, but somewhere in that licoricey olfactory area. I am decidedly not a fan of licorice/anise, but here the undertone is so subtle, it is actually pleasant. As the scent progresses, I begin to smell a note that I can't help but think is immortelle...perhaps a combination of the resinous and vanilic benzoin and spice is what produces the sweet and green and strangely "meaty" immortelle-like effect. In any case, this is the stage of the scent's development I particularly like. As Spiritueuse Double Vanille dries down, it becomes softer than soft, a gentle, fluffy skin scent with just a touch of dry piquancy. All in all, a pretty and pleasant little fragrance, not praticularly Guerlainesque, but none of the last Guerlains have been that anyway. Not sure if I would buy it for myself, but if it somehow appeared in my life, I would wear Spiritueuse Double Vanille with much pleasure this fall and winter.
Spiritueuse Double Vanille should be available in Guerlain's boutique in Bergdorf Goodman by the end of September. The Eau de Parfum, housed in a 75ml "laboratory bottle dressed with a vintage label", will cost $200. For more information and to pre-order, contact Jason Bears, tel.: (212) 872-2734.
Image source, aufeminin.com.
By the way, I've been so busy lately that I forgot about Perfume-Smellin' Things' 2nd Birthday! Thank you so much, everybody, for your continuing readership, friendship and support! Incidentally, today is also Mr. Colombina's birthday. Happy Birthday, Mr. C, my dear reluctant perfumisto.