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Thursday, January 03, 2008

Tom's Best of 2007

Or, The Pansies.

It's perhaps a good thing this day after Christmas that I can do a recap of the scents of 2007, since I seem to have my yearly cold and I don't think I could fairly review a new scent. It's to be hoped that by the time you read this I will be less hacky and sniffly and ready to greet 2008 by being pleased by or annoyed with the latest new releases..

Having written than, here are (in no particular order) my 10 best of 2007:

Bond No 9 Silver Factory: What's not to like? Chilly yet dirty incensey goodness. You won't need a Pucci shirt to wear it, but it might put you in the mood for it. Easily the best Bond yet.

CB I Hate Perfume I Am a Dandelion: This line is wonderful, sometimes skirting the line of actually making one question exactly what perfume actually is. I Am a Dandelion is both true to its title and also manages to be both gorgeously surreal and yet one of his most wearable.

Frederick Malle French Lover: This ultimate take on the Gentleman's Cologne is a winner; elegance with a sly wink.

Miller Harris Fleur de Sel: The flip side of French Lover; Fleur de Sel is delightfully spare and green. Was my summer scent for 2007 and will be again I am sure.

Serge Lutens Louve: A scent that got a big fat "Meh" from most everyone out there, perhaps because it's Serge and our expectations are automatically high. I find it a delightfully meditative and comforting scent; the musky almonds are as comforting as being tucked in.

Tauer Perfumes Reverie au Jardin: Andy Tauer has been quitely been putting out genius scents for a few years now, and RauJ is the latest reflection of that genius. Lavender like you've never smelled it before in scent, but that will make you rethink what you want in a lavender scent. Brilliant!

Creed Virgin Island Water: Yes, I know I didn't review this one, but I did and do adore it. It's a tropical vacation in a bottle and one of the few coconut scents that don't send me right 'round the bend, perhaps because it's a masterful blend. It's a perfect antidote to those winter blues.

Guerlain Spiriteuse Double Vanille: Boozy, doughy vanilla goodness. More comforting that your Mama's hugs. What's not to love? Oh, the "limited edition" part of the equation...

Gendarme Sky: One that came and went with little to no fanfare and that's too bad. It does the clean/fresh/"nice" thing light-years better than some (cough)CKin2u(cough) others that had a bazillion dollar marketing campaigns. If you are in the market for clean and fresh done right, this one is right up your clothesline.

Parfumerie Generale Cadjmere: PG is another house that for me has not made a mis-step. Even the ones that I cannot wear myself I have to tip the hat to. Cadjmere (why have I not reviewed this?) is green and woody and "plush" is the way that LuckyScent describes it and that is a very apt description indeed.

Honorary Mentions:

Tom Ford Moss Breches: Tip of the chapeau for being so dedicatedly weird. Points off for, well, being Tom Ford.

Commes des Garcons Luxe Champaca and Luxe Patchouli: Tip if the chapeau for being brilliant. Points off for being priced higher than Bolivian marching powder.

Prettiest Bottle:

Fendi Palazzo. Wish the juice was as nice

Dippiest Name:

Don't Get Me Wrong Baby, I Don't Swallow. What does that even mean?

Hardest Sell:

The SA at the Beverly Center who practically got me in a head lock and tried to force me to buy Diesel Fuel For Life.

Three I am not trying no matter how much I am asked to:

Bijan Nude
Brittney Spears Midnight Blue
Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen Hamptons Style

And so goes the 2007 edition of the Pansies. Feel free to list yours, I am sure that i will be clocking my head and going "Duh!" at the ones that I have left out. Here's to hope that 2008 will bring some nice scents out way!


Blogger Victoria said...

Darn! I forgot Sky!! You know I fell for it as hard as you did.
Louve and Reverie au Jardin both were up there for me too. I still think of Andy saying "la-vander" everytime I see Reverie au Jardin. Sweet memories.
All the best to you in 2008!
Victoria O.

11:22 PM EST  
Anonymous MarkDavid said...

Lovely list, Tom

I really need to try more Parfumerie Generale scents. I think Ive only tried Jardins de Kerylos and Coze - neither one of which hit my wow-spot. But I have a feeling there are good things in there for me.

And Fleur de Sel - thats on my to-smell list for my NYC trip in a few weeks.

Im not sure I could personally come up with 10 scents that I swooned over in 2007. Maybe Im wrong. I dunno - lets try...

Chanel 28 La Pausa
Robert Piguet Visa
Aedes/Molinard Chypre
SL Rousse
Neil Morris Gotham
Bath and Body works Sensual Amber

yup - thats all I got.


11:27 PM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

i'm too new at perfume to have a list of faves yet, but i just wanted to say that i very much enjoyed your list and marina's, as well as all your wonderful reviews that i've been reading on this site.

oh, and this:
an award called "the pansies" ...


-- erin

11:50 PM EST  
Blogger knidonovan said...

Reading all these blogs are making me ponder if I would like the perfumes I used to wear in the past.

I have questions though... Why would there still be say..Eau de Givenchy sold on the web but not on the actually Givenchy web site?
Does that mean that REALLY old or bad versions of Eau de Givenchy fragrance are out there being sold?

I wore Eau de Givenchy for a brief summer in the early 90's while dating a man. I had a brand new bottle fall out of the bag I was holding on to while riding on a motorcycle with him on a freeway. I think that was a BIG OMEN! I worked at a coffee shop at the time so that was a big expenditure! I weeped inside. Perfume was like GOLD! (still is!)

Anyway, can someone help me with this question about perfumes?
Also, I have a friend who likes lavender But I want to smell something that mixes it up a bit.
Any suggestions?

12:35 AM EST  
Blogger Anita said...

Great list! I just received a decant of Silver Factory from a lovely perfumista on MUA (as a random act of kindness, no less) and I am completely smitten. Wonderful. Sadly, I agree completely about Palazzo. I plan to purchase a bottle for the bottle in a year or two, after the price falls at the online discounters. And as to Tom Ford, his marketing is so very distasteful but I WANT a bottle of Black Orchid Voile de Fleur. Perfume lust will trump higher principles, and at least the guy's prices are decent, for the Sephora scents, anyway. Looking forward to more of your dry humor & excellent reviews in '08!

6:21 AM EST  
Blogger lilybp said...

Loved the Pansies--altough my 2 favorite scents here (Moss B and CdG Patch) were the honorable mentions. DH loves French Lover, though (yes, I know that's a bit ambiguous):)

8:24 AM EST  
Blogger Beth Gehring said...


What a great list! My personal 2007 favorite.........Estee Lauder Tuberose Gardenia. What a pleasant surprise that one was! Also, although technically I think that it was released in limited form in 2006...Sisley's Soir de lune which I adore! I hope that you feel much better soon! Everyone in my household has had this crud so far except for me. I keep warding it off with hot toddies,excessive amounts of dark chocolate and perfume!

8:35 AM EST  
Blogger elle said...

The Pansies - love it! My faves from your list would be Silver Factory and the Honorable Mentions of CdG Patch (although I'm still balking at the price) and Moss Breches.
And what an incredibly obnoxious SA. WTH do they train these people? Guantanamo?

8:38 AM EST  
Anonymous Leopoldo said...

Love to read my fave LA boy's list. Some of which I ain't sniffed. But I'll sort that out prontisimo.

Your little package still ain't here. i think Santa may have nabbed it.

10:11 AM EST  
Anonymous Suzanne said...

Tom, I look forward to trying some of these in 2008. I ordered a decant of the Guerlain Spiriteuse Double Vanille from The Perfumed Court and can't wait for it to arrive. I loved your post on it some time back.

Got a chuckle over the scents you absolutely refuse to try. Just reading the names of them in list form is ridiculously funny!

10:19 AM EST  
Blogger Kelley said...

Tom, where is your review of PG Cadjmere? I can't find it anywhere? Did you even write one? You didn't? Will so write one soon? Please?

10:25 AM EST  
Blogger Patty said...

A brilliant list, of course, from a man with brilliant taste. I keep moving that CdG LUXE Patchouli up on my list. It really does rock and just may be worth more of the ridiculous price than others? Ack, I hate the pricing, but I know we are all getting used to it and keep revising up what is "normal." Used to be above $100 was ridiculous. Now it's above 200. And that I'm lemming that OJ creation Seraphim for 800 smackaroos is just unconscionable.

10:35 AM EST  
Blogger TMH256 said...

Great list Tom! I also forgot about "Sky" - great recommendation! And Reverie Au Jardin is one of my favorites to wear when I'm stressed - such a beautiful, unique take on lavender. Great list.

May 2008 bring everything your heart and nose desires!


10:50 AM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Weren't you the one that got a larger bottle of Sky for some reason?

I think it's too bad that one doesn't hear anything about that one ever- I liked it..

Best to yo as well, and start blogging more!

11:57 AM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


I have got to get it together and try Visa..

Good list!

12:00 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Thanks! I appreciate that!

12:00 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


I don't know that eau de Givenchy is discontinued- when basenotes is back up perhaps their directory could let you konw, or someone on makeupalley would know. I do know that I've found several scents (such as Yatagan and Feminite de Bois) that you can't get at department stores and they smelled just fine, sooooo.

Andy Tauer's lavender is wonderful. Gris Clair by Serge Lutens is in a different vein, but beautiful as well.

Fell out on the Freeway? I don't work in a coffee shop anymore but I think I'd still weep over that!

12:07 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...



I secretly love at least 4 of TF's scents but don't want ot admit it...

12:08 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


MB got a demerit for TF's generally (IMO) tiresomely louche ads.

CdeG got a demerit because of the price point- I know, I'm cheap...

Otherwise they would have made it

12:09 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Can you believe I haven't sniffed Estee? I'll have to remedy that. Luckily this round of sniffles had dried up- it kept me home for New Years with a hot bath and a book, which was for the best..

12:11 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


That SA was obnoxious- started off by saying "this is better than anything that you can get at Neimans or Barneys"

I looked at her and flatly asked "Oh really?"

12:13 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Really? That sucks! I hope it arrives soon (trying to remember when I mailed it..)

12:14 PM EST  
Anonymous Divalano said...

I really do have to try Silver Factory & SDV. Oh, and also the Luxe. But I can't fall in love, I'm not buying anything for a while. Well, maybe decants. Or splits? But that's it. I swear. My credit cards are all hibernating until March.

12:14 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


I'd love to hear how you find the Guerlain.

Reading some of those names is fairly ridiculous- Mary Kate and Ashley aren't the first two people who pop to mind when I think "Hamptons" are they. Of course, my idea would be two (by CB no doubt) called "Big Edie" and "Little Edie"

12:16 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


I haven't written one yet- I've been feeling kind of bad about sucking samples out of LuckyScent (and dissing some of them)

I will soon, though

12:17 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


i am being dragged kicking and screaming into the "$200 is the new $90" era. I keep thinking "gas is near $4.00 a gallon, so..."


12:19 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Thank you, and I wish the same for you in '08. Of course, I'll be reading!

12:20 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


I am all about the decants these days. I will not buy a full bottle until I have eaten up a big decant. I just wont.

12:22 PM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ooooohh baby! .... Louve and Spiriteuse Double Vanille! Enough said. :)


12:47 PM EST  
Blogger marchlion said...

Great reviews! I am *so* happy to see you share my shameful secret about Virgin Island Water. I hate that type of scent too; wonder why this one is so great? And anyone who loves CB is a friend of mine. Speaking of dippy, I am pretty sure Malle changed the name of French Lover (which is SO GREAT) to some Frawnsch, unmemorable thing for U.S. Marketing, which is a shame.

1:19 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Vanille is one of the big winners of '07..

2:10 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Dunno what it is about VI Water, but I love it.

Do you know, I had seen "Bois d'Orage" at Barneys a couple of months ago (still think "thunder wood" sounds like a porn star), but when I was in there this weekend there on the Malle counter was out-and-proud "French Lover". What's that about?

2:17 PM EST  
Blogger Gaia, the non-blonde said...

Tom, as always, I agree just about everything. It seems like you and I are the only Louve fans, but I have a feeling that just like with Rousse, people will come around.

By the way, my resolve about not buying that jug of Silver Factory is close to being broken. I think I might actually need it...

2:34 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


I know exactly how you feel- if only they did a half size on that one...

3:14 PM EST  
Anonymous Flora said...

Tom, whenever I read your reviews not only am I both amused and educated, I wonder why I don't try more "masculine" and "unisex" scents - obviously there are a lot of great ones out there that I need to discover. I got the Serge covered, but I must branch out more.

And thanks for the list of ones you refuse to try on principle - Bravo! :-D (My current DO NOT APPROACH - BIOHAZARD RISK is Paris Hilton's French CanCan. I simply will not touch it-you don't know where it's been....)

3:55 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Thank you, that's very nice of you,a nd I am always happy to enable.

Paris Hilton- ew, sadly, we know exactly where she's been!

4:21 PM EST  
Blogger chayaruchama said...

Love your list, Tom !
[Sorry I'm late- work 'n'all...]

About the Etats Libre-
DON'T make ME explain that one to you.....!

7:43 AM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

I won't make you, but I'd love to hear you do so....

1:04 PM EST  

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