A Surge of Serge
Review by Tom
Today (Thursday, August 16th) I received a plethora of Serge: A trade with the wonderful Lee of Perfume Posse, which ended up with a nearly full bottle of Cedre, and a package from the Perfumed Court, including samples of all the exclusives I haven't tried yet (but will review, whether you like it or not) and the latest import, Louve.
Colombina dismissed this as pleasant, and it is: it's a well balanced cedar, with notes as various as cloves and tuberose. I think I have found a tuberose that I might actually wear: it's the barest peep of that gorgeous flower tinged with camphor amongst light woods, spices and I smell citrus. Will I reach for it? Sure. The camphor and the tuberose do a fascinating if very subtle dance around one another that I like a lot. Will I feel a burning need to replace it if it runs out? I don't know. It may be one of those in the line like Un Lys: quietly beautiful, and since it doesn't have the fireworks of some of the others, easily overlooked.
One that apparently is getting a meh/meh reaction on the internets; am I crazy that I love it? Yes, it seems like a less dirty, more almondy Rahat Loukoum. Is that a bad thing? Louve tones down the overt booziness of Rahat Loukoum, drops the cherries, amps up the Almond and adds a divine rose note (barely discernible) and replaces the musky musk of RL with a lighter musk - but I have to write that in this slighter concoction that this musk comes across as sly as a...wolf? . Do I wish that they would just release Rahat as an import? Well, yeah. Actually I would like them to drop the whole artificial "exclusive/import" crap and give me what I want. But I am at heart an American and feel it's my right to have bell jars delivered to my door (note to Mssr. Lutens, I will sell out my country if you will only deliver to me) whenever I so desire.
On its own Louve is a delicious scent, totally compelling and identifyably a Lutens/Sheldrake creation. Sitting here in 90 degree weather I am finding this Amaretto she-wolf gorgeous, and yes, as an owner of a bell jar of Rahat, I will be buying this when it shows up at Barneys.
Cedre is at Barneys and Neimans in San Francisco, I assume for $110, since it's not on the website. I assume also that Louve will be the same price in September. Look for it.