The Eureka Moment ...And a Bit of News
Review by Tom
First off, the news:
Serge Lutens' heartwrenchingly lovely Un Lys has appeared at Barneys as the spring guest-export scent. It's a gorgeous and very feminine lily scent that opens with the barest touch of green and dries down to notes of vanilla and musk. The eponymous lillies are heady and voluptuous: masses of lillies. Bowers of them in fact. I can see that with a heavy hand, this could be overpowering. But I think this all-lillies-all-the-time wonder is fantastic. Just the thing for a big night out, whether that's a night out at the Opera in opera length gloves or a dinner out where you want to capture the attention of the men (and quite a few of the women). $120 for 50ml at Barneys
Sometimes it takes a while for a scent to... acclimate is the best way I can put it. It happened years ago with Annick Goutal Sables, which took a try to two before its immortelle went from maple candy sweetness to peaty caramelly swooniness. Miel de Bois was another: it took several tries for it to work. It's almost like learning a foreign language; you study and study and drill and drill and at one point those meaningless syllables cohere. What was once random babbling now is conversation, easy and comfortable. Suddenly you get it, it works on you. I call it "the eureka moment".
This one seems to take the cake as one of the longest between complete indifference and utter infatuation: Serge Lutens Rousse. I wrote that I was indifferent to it, Colombina wrote that she rather like it more, but she wouldn't need a full bottle. She had a subsequent change of heart, and is very much enamored. I wasn't until I was at Barneys today (Sunday the 22nd) and the lady at the counter convinced me to respritz. Suddenly, it was delightful: playful cinnamon red-hots and wonderful woodiness. Cloves and a certain doughy immortelle are in the middle and the drydown, but those slightly scorched woods keep it from becoming too literally pie-like. The musky drydown is reminiscent of Mandarine Mandarin but slightly less dense, being tinged with spices rather than fruits. Do I have to tell you that I bought a bottle?
Rousse is available at Barneys, $100 for 50ml.
If I run across another one that turns from "meh" to "oooooh baby", I'll write about it. Somehow I doubt that "Blue Sugar" will ever have that thing happen...