Perfume Review: Thierry Mugler Mirroir Mirroir Collection
Thierry Mugler decided to do a Malle of sorts and invited perfumers, Alexis Dadier, Fabrice Pellegrin, Christine Nagel and Domitille Bertier, to create, for the company's new Dare the Metamorphosis line, fragrances that would be appropriately quirky. The perfumes may not be to my liking, as the reviews below will show, but I do think that they are interesting nevertheless and worth smelling, if only to discover that (Perfume The Movie Coffret and Cologne aside) Mugler can produce perfumes that don't smell like some kind of variation on Angel.
A Travers Le Miroir (Through the Looking Glass), a juxtaposition of feminine (tuberose) and masculine (woods and absinthe). Who doesn't like a good contrast? And this one could have been good if the "masculine" side did not completely overwhelm the "feminine". The usually not shy tuberose doesn't dare to raise her voice, and lets the aromatic, nose-tingling "absinthe" notes dominate her. Love the wintergreen notes, don't love the dill ones. A waste of tuberose.
Dis-Moi, Miroir (Mirror Image). No amount of "milky notes" will turn snow-queen-cold lilies into "nurturing" flowers. The juicy sweetness of orange blossom compliments the dazzling-white lily accord beautifully, but whatever it is that gives the otherwise lovely floral scent its milky-chocolate undertone bothers me. A waste of lilies.
Miroir des Envies (Mirror of Desires) is probably the one that sells the best. Soft, creamy, delicately gourmand and even more delicately floral, it blends not too sweet chocolate accord with clean-smelling jasmine. It is a little on the bland side and overall not my thing but I would get it for my little one, there is something charmingly child-like about it...and therefore the name puzzles and disturbs me a little.
Miroir des Secrets (Mirror of Secrets) begins rather Angel-like (and is the only one in the series that reminded me of Angel), with an addition of a big, bright grapefruit note. The juicy sprakle of grapefruit is soon cleverly replaced by the powdery sparkle of an aldehydes. The patchouli note is there alright, but it is not the kind that I like and not the kind that should have been chosen to hint at "secrets" hidden in the depths of the perfume. It is not dark and earthy in the least. Instead it is squeaky-clean and pale. A waste of aldehydes.
Miroir des Vanites (Mirror of Vanities). Delicious, sweet-and-tart citrusy top accord unfortunately very quickly dissipates and is replaced by a mix that is, I suppose, meant to be "dark", and is instead rather generically masculine in that annoyingly sharp and syrupy way that masculine scents with licorice have to my anti-licorice nose. If you have enough patience to wait till the very last stages of drydown, you will be rewarded by an ambery-incensy accord of a very handsome, if austere, kind.
Available at Saks, $150.00 for 1.7oz.
Image source, lexpress.fr
Labels: Thierry Mugler