Perfume Review: Parfums de Nicolai Eau Turquoise

The quality that fascinates me in Patricia de Nicolai scents is their creamy richness. Even the citrusy-fresh, summery fragrances like Eau d'Ete and the new Eau Turquoise have something comfortingly "solid" about them. The first breezy accords dissipate and underneath them one invariably finds the buttery, tonka-full base, "Nicolaiade". Eau Turquoise starts with a pleasantly sharp citrus note, which I would have sworn was grapefruit, and which, looking at the least of notes, I now think must be a lime and pepper accord. The fruity sweetness of osmanthus, enhanced by the presence of apricot, prevents the citruses from being too acidic, and thus a beautiful balance of airy and milky, piquant and fruity is achieved. As the scent develops on my skin, "Nicolaide" becomes apparent. While remaining resolutely summery and beachy (and I love that the beachy feel is created without the obvious use of coconut), Eau Turquoise has a warm, "thick" base of, I believe, tonka (which, to me, is the signature note of Nicolai), cardamom and cedarwood... the base that is like a languid, sensual night to the sunlit day of the top and heart notes. Available at Luckyscent, for the very reasonable $65.00 for 100ml.