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Monday, October 06, 2008

Perfume Review: Parfumerie Generale PG 21 Felanilla and PG 23 Drama Nuui

It has been a while since I really loved a Parfumerie Generale release. The last one was the darkly beautiful L'Ombre Fauve. Everything after seemed somewhat repetitive, predictably "Generale". I feel that with the two latest scents, Pierre Guillaume is back in splendid shape. Felanilla showcases his skill in making woody scents soft, sensual and vaguely gourmand...but is not nearly as sweet as many of its predecessors. Drama Nuuï is one of the very few (in fact I can only think of two others, Psychotrope and Ether de Lilas Blanc Sur Feuillage) Guillaume scents that are what I would call transparent and fresh.

Felanilla, described by the creators as a "feline vanilla", is indeed animalic but not obviously vanilla. Saffron is apparent from start to finish, and its spiciness keeps in check the sweetness of the central note. Orris, combined with woods and hay, creates a powdery-fluffy-downy effect that was also present in Bois Blonde and Aomassai. Felanilla is, however, spicier and therefore, for me, more interesting than Bois Blonde and much less heavy and sweet than Aomassai. This woody-vanillic powderiness is, to me, the best part of the scent. I think that it makes the composition simultaneously chic in a retro, indescribably "French" manner, sensual and very comforting. Which are basically all the qualities I am looking for in a perfume. The scent is a chat noire, languidly relaxing before pouncing...Delicious, sexy and elegant, it is a must have for me.

Drama Nuuï, a "bitter jasminade", was not love at first sniff. As I said, it is much more translucent than most of PG's creations, it speaks quietly and reveals its charm slowly. After a couple of wearings, however, I was smitten. The jasmine note here is gorgeously transparent, a delicate white veil with all the innocence that the image implies...A green, indeed a little bitter (a quality I adore in perfumes) note, which might be asbinthe, adds dryness to the composition, enhancing the effect of lightness, or rather weightlessness...Drama Nuuï is an unsual rendition of jasmine in that it interprets the flower as pure, almost angelic and not as heavy-lidded and sensual. This would be a beautiful reminder of summer in the midst of winter...and of paradise lost.

Felanilla and Drama Nuuï are available at parfumerie-generale.com, €110.00-€170.00 and €88.00-€120.00 respectively, and soon at luckyscent.com.

Update: PG now can be found in Paris at TASK INSTITUT, 17-21 Bd de la Madeleine,
75001

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11 Comments:

Blogger Divina said...

Lady you got me craving! I have to say I am a huge fan of PG... Unfortunately the shops that carry PG here only offer fragments of the collection. *sigh* Your description of Felanilla (hate the name btw..) has me swooning!

6:23 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Divina,
I don't udnerstand the name. Well, it is vanilla and...fella? :-)

6:39 AM EDT  
Blogger elle said...

These sound brilliant! Felanilla especially is calling my name. Calling loudly. Insistently. May have to head over to the PG site and answer before the day is out.

9:15 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Alright M, how does this Fela- stuff compare to Musc Maori? Will a gourmand gal like me wanna gobble it up??!!

-Kayliana

1:31 PM EDT  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

Oooh, want some Drama whatever! Sounds lovely.

1:44 PM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

L,
Yeah, I want that one too...and Nuui one as well. Actually, no, no, I don't want anything. :-)

8:33 PM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Kayliana
It is nothing at all like Maori. I think that you might possibly find this one a little on a dry side. You reminded me that I need Maori too.

8:34 PM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

R
I think you will like that one. Maybe be even the Fella one

8:34 PM EDT  
Anonymous minou2 said...

The depth and breath of your knowledge of fragrance never fails to amaze me, Marina. I haven't heard of ANY of the perfumes you mention in this review, each of which you describe with eloquence and precision. I would trade all of my favorite perfumes for 1/100th of your talent and experience!

12:38 AM EDT  
Blogger Colombina (Marina) said...

Oh M, seriously! The things you say :-))

6:50 AM EDT  
Blogger ockeghem said...

FYI -- also available at The Perfume Shoppe in Vancouver, BC. Doesn't look like she has the Felanilla on the website yet, but she does have it in the shop so if you contacted her directly she could probably send it. I know because I just bought some there -- absolutely love this one, and I don't generally like vanilla. On me it smells more like woody banana, though -- nice cedar coming through -- very comforting.

11:04 AM EST  

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