Guerlain Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus: Perfume Review
Although I appreciate Mitsouko, objectively, as a Masterpiece and a Classic, subjectively, I do not love it. When I wear it, Mitsouko is out there all by itself, and I am out here all by myself, we don't mesh, it does not melt into my skin, it is not "my" scent at all. So forgive me, Mitsouko lovers, for not finding the emergence of this flanker sacrilegious. And the thing is...we may moan about them all we want, but there will always be flankers. Companies will always attempt to make easier profit on the names of already popular scents. As Ecclesiastes would say, why shouldest thou vex thyself lamenting the inevitable? And not all follow-ups are tragically unworthy of their big ancestors. Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere, Vol de Nuit Evasion, Farenheit 32 are rather good. So is Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus.
The beginning of the scent is, to me, recognizably Mitsouko, only about 100 watts brighter. There is much more citrus in the beginning, the fragrance is more brisk, fresher, with none of the indolent smoky peachiness of the classic, but there is still a certain very Guerlain weightiness about the blend, a certain dark substantionality that is palpable under the breezier notes. As the scent progresses, it temporarily loses that solid Guerlain feel, becoming even more citrusy and more floral, in a cold, clean sort of way (that would be lotus). But only temporarily, because the depth returns, although when it does, the hints of Mitsouko's trademark buttery powderiness are replaced with what I would describe as peppery powderiness. Think the famously non-oakmoss chypre 31 Rue Cambon. This kind of slightly piquant, mineral earthiness that stood in for chypre in Chanel's creation stands for it in Fleur de Lotus as well.
The brighter, lighter, less oily-smoky-bitter Mitsouko suits me much more than the original. Also, when I say, lighter, I don't mean insubstantial. This is still a fairly robust and complex perfume, which takes time to reveal its various facets and lasts a long time. Yes, it is not the Mitsouko, but I think that the very decent flanker does not disgrace its hallowed name.
Ask for it at Guerlain boutique in Bergdrof Goodman, $100.00 for 60ml of Eau de Toilette.