By Donna
The
one-man show known as PK
Perfumes has been quietly
making inroads into the American indie perfume scene, and the small company has
gained wider recognition with several prestigious industry
nominations and awards in an impressively short span of time.
Perfumer Paul Kiler has
a unique and somewhat quirky viewpoint, and after testing the full
range of fragrances and a draft of an upcoming launch, it is easy to
see why this brand is gaining a loyal following. These fragrances are
composed in the classic manner with a high percentage of natural
materials, but the results can be quite unexpected.
One of the most talked-about perfumes in the lineup is Red
Leather, and when I first tried
it, I really thought I hated it. The opening is blunt and tarry, and
it seemed as though it was going to be one of those coarse, greasy
leather and patchouli scents that only the bravest men would ever
wear. Much to my surprise, this effect did not last very long, and
after the smoke cleared a different animal appeared. I have never
smelled leather paired with the astringency of buchu leaves, rhubarb
and pink grapefruit before but this is a genius move that turns Red
Leather into a streamlined modern leather like no other. Civet and
castoreum in the base keep it anchored and some florals peek through
on occasion, but this one is all about the contract between funk and
zing, and it works wonderfully. I ended up liking it a lot with its
sporty vibe that brings to mind Italian leathers such as Trussardi,
and it is ideal for men (and women) who want to make a memorable
impression.
Gold
Leather is very different from
its sibling, but it also gets its character from an unusual
combination of notes. To my nose the dominant impression is of
“pocketbook” leather overlaid with a bitter cherry/almond accord,
which happens to be one of my favorite things in perfumery (see DSH
Perfumes Antiu),
and softened with fruits and sumptuous white flowers – lily,
tuberose, gardenia, honeysuckle, jasmine and more. It is sweet but
not overly so, and the leather is always in the forefront. Herbal
notes and oakmoss make for an earthy yet sunny drydown that seems to
last forever. This is my kind of leather scent; since I am an ardent
fan of vintage Balmain Jolie Madame,
who hides a huge bouquet of creamy white florals under her leather
catsuit, I appreciate that Gold Leather fills a need for today's
perfume lovers seeking a wearable feminine leather that will also
appeal to men. This one goes on my wish list for sure.
We
are still not done with leather, and Zaffran
is yet another original take on the theme – leather with saffron,
and lots of saffron at that. Zaffran is quite somber, with no
discernible sweetness, and even cardamom, clove bud, cinnamon and
kaffir lime can't brighten the mood created by the leather
embellished with tobacco, patchouli and costus root. It has a
distinctly masculine aura, and although many women might like it I
would rather smell it on a man than wear it myself. It is actually
too subdued for my taste and I wish it had a little more brightness,
but it's as smooth as one could want and elegantly understated.
Another
fragrance in the line that has a unisex appeal is Ginger
Zest de Citron, which was
inspired by the idea of cooling summer drinks. The concept is
deceptively simple; sure, just throw in some citrus and add ginger,
how hard could it be? Not so fast – this is a well composed and
interesting scent that hides an undercurrent of curry spice, musk and
a hint of leather, with a dry, cool and rooty character that feels
just like sitting in the shade of a tree on a hot day. It also lasts
a lot longer on skin than one would expect for something in this
style. Guys, please oh please wear this in summertime instead of
those dreadful, faceless “bug spray” sporty masculines. You will
be doing yourselves and the rest of us a huge favor.
Switching
gears, the delightful duet of chocolate and violets provides an
olfactory treat in Violet
Chocolatier. It would
be easy to dismiss it as a novelty but don't make that mistake. An
initial burst of dew-dappled violets is quickly joined by a warm
accord of gently spiced chocolate and a deliciously tangy fruit note
of apricots. I can take all the apricot you can throw at me and more,
and the fact that it is combined with so many of my other favorite
perfume ingredients – violet, chocolate, rose, nutmeg, honey,
gardenia, benzoin, jasmine and more – pretty much guarantees my
thumbs-up vote on this one. As it dries down the round, juicy
fruitiness sticks around accompanied by an earthy iris effect as the
violet subsides, with lingering echoes of chocolate and amber, and it
turns out to be a surprisingly sophisticated composition. Highly
recommended.
While
we are in gourmand territory, let's talk about Café
Diem. This is another idea that
could have gone wrong in less capable hands but it really works here
in a boozy, smoky blend of coffee, absinthe, whiskey, warm
spices, incense and vetiver. It's less foody than it sounds and one
reason for that could be because of what's not
in it; Mr. Kiler
dislikes vanilla and does not use it in his perfumes. (Did I mention
his quirky viewpoint? I believe I did.) One of the most popular
materials in all perfumery is off the menu, and it's exactly one of
the ingredients most perfumers would use in this kind of fragrance,
but it suffers not all from its absence. Café
Diem brings back memories of my younger self and good times spent at
a local French bistro that had live jazz bands playing late into the
evening. Liquor flowed freely, and the bar specialized in steaming
hot coffee drinks featuring the addition of Drambuie, Bailey's Irish
Cream and other cozy libations. Just one of those would keep me warm
all the way home on a rainy winter night, and this comforting coffee
scent would make a perfect winter perfume.
Next
time I will review the rest of the PK Perfumes roster, so come back
soon!
Image
credits: Gold tooled floral pattern leather via kaneva.com . Rose and
Violet chocolate creams via lakeland.co.uk
Disclaimer:
I requested and received a sample set from PK perfumes for testing
purposes.
Labels: Artisan perfumery, Donna, PK Perfumes |
