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Thursday, December 22, 2005

Perfume Review. Serenity Now: Angelique Encens by Creed

Angélique Encens is a part of Creed’s Private Collection, which consists of fragrances created for special (read- famous) clients. Angélique Encens was Marlene Dietrich’s scent; that fact alone was enough for me to like it. Of course there is more to Angélique Encens than it’s famed, very chic patron. With notes of anjelica, tuberose, amber, incense, and vanilla, this is a perfume-paradox, a fragrance that somehow manages to be dramatic and serene, comfortingly substantial and ethereal all at the same time.

Green, buttery incense is the description that comes to mind when I think about Angélique Encens. I realize that it may not sound too appealing, but it is quite a stunning fragrance. It starts with a blast of green anjelica note mixed with peppery incense. Vanilla is apparent from the very beginning, adding that “butteriness”, substantiality, and richness that I like so much in Angélique Encens. In the middle stage, incense subsides and almost disappears as does vanilla. Anjelica is now paired with tuberose, which is a quiet note here and mostly serves as a creamy background for the green anjelica. When the drydown comes, vanilla returns making sure that that the scent keeps its warmth and sumptuousness. Incense reappears as well, but is much less intense than in the top notes.

Angélique Encens is a comfort scent for me, in a sense that it brings me detachment and peace, a certain otherworldly lightness of heart, and freedom from worries. When I wear this fragrance, certain teachings from Tao Te Ching suddenly become understandable, appealing, and achievable to me, for example this:

Things come her way and she does not stop them; things leave and she lets them go.

Or this:

If you can empty your mind of all thoughts, your heart will embrace the tranquility of peace.

This “Taoist” Creed can be yours for $280.00 (250ml, available at Parfumsraffy). I am rationing my decant, but as soon as it is over, I will have to find a way to obtain a bottle of Angélique Encens.

*The photo of burning incense sticks is from


Blogger Christina H. said...

I enjoy this one very much.You're right about describing as serene.That's exactly what it is to me.A pleasure to wear that I often overlook sometimes.It's non obtrusive and beautifully done.

8:12 AM EST  
Blogger AngelTea said...

Sounds so peaceful that I want it NOW (in the pre-NY rush)! 'Course we do not it here in Russisa - will need to find it somewhere abroad. Lucky we have Shiseido here - yes, it's in L'Etoile and the total sale makes every bottle of FdB available for less than 13USD for 100ml bottle

8:58 AM EST  
Blogger AngelTea said...

Ooops, I meant: "...we do not have it here in Russia..." What's wrong wrong with my spelling at the end of the day hehe

9:00 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

Thank you for introducing it to me, it is such a great scent. I really think it is one of the best Creeds, certainly one of the most interesting.

9:05 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

T, you made me weep. I am sobbing here, because I am so envious re: the price of Feminite. It is $65.00 here minimum (for eau de parfum)- if you are lucky to find it.

9:06 AM EST  
Blogger AngelTea said...

Imagine how much and often sobbing I am: of all those Creed's, S. Luthen's etc., etc.:-)))

9:31 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

Yeah, but...Shiseido for $13...waaaah!

There are so many Shiseido scents that they don't export to the US. I believe there are some they don't export anywhere. I want those, and I guess it is precisely because I can't get them :-)

9:40 AM EST  
Blogger AngelTea said...

Yep, I think, it's usually with all the perfumes: the less the opportunity you can get any, the more the obsession of "wanting" them. As for Shis. we have The Relaxing and The Energising lines and the Vocalise (which I consider as the palest fragrance I've ever tried). Haven't seen anythig else from them. Do you know more? And I'm biting my ears - want Escada Collection since read your review on it and can't find anywhere!

9:49 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

T, here are some more Shiseidos, off the top of my head. Apart from Feminite du Bois and those you mentioned, there is also Zen (original, in a black bottle, and new one, in a white bottle), Chant du Coeur, Message from Orchids, Murasaki, Inoui and many, many more. Most of these Shiseido does not export even to Europe. As for the US, we only get new Zen, Energizing, Relaxing, and I think Vocalise. None of which are all that interesting. :-(

10:14 AM EST  
Blogger Kyahgirl said...

What a beautiful review. I wish I loved this scent but I didn't. Actually, I always kind of snicker to myself with AE because I have a very funny 'perfume moment' memory associated with it.
I was testing AE one day and both my kids and dh were there. I was snuggling Nicole on my lap, she kind of wrinkled up her nose, and said quietly "Mommy, you don't smell so good". Ron, immediately piped in "yeah, I thought it was awful but didn't want to sya". So, basically he was too gutless to tell me he hated the perfume so hid behind his (then) 5 year old daughter to do the dirty work!! We laughed our heads off. It just seemed so funny. Now, the are much more up front about their reaction to my fragrances. :-)

10:46 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

L, that is so funny! I guess it is useful (though hard) to have honest family members who will tell you like itis :-)

Both my 3 y.o. and my DH are either cowards or not in any way gifted in an olfactory sense, because everything I wear or make them sniff "smells nice" :-)

10:57 AM EST  
Blogger Patty said...

Hmmm, I just put this in someone's swap package. I'm close to regretting it after reading your review, you have a way of making things sound so great! But it's that blast of angelica at the beginning I can't get past. The history is interesting, though!

10:58 AM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

Patty, I am not ordinarily a fan of gren notes like anjelica, but here vanilla and incense really make the difference.
(Has the swap package been mailed yet? Because you can always unwrap it, you know :-))

11:06 AM EST  
Blogger boisdejasmin said...

I am attracted to the history of this fragrance, but that is about it. Oh well, there are many other fragrances for me to love.

12:00 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

That is true. These days I am actually glad when I can cross something off my gigantic wish list. :-)

12:26 PM EST  
Blogger lilybp said...

M--This is one of my all-time favorite scents, and your review of it is wonderful! I have a vat that I got at a discount, and I treasure it. I also wanted to say that I love your blog! Happy holidays,

9:33 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

So nice to see you here!!
Oh, to have a vat of AE...mmm...
I guess this is one fragrance love we share! :-)

9:47 PM EST  
Blogger marchlion said...

Creed mostly leaves me cold. I said so to Robin once and I believe she responded that this one was worth the time. I wound up with a decant (too late for your review). It is heaven. It does go a bit off in the middle, but the drydown is spectacular. Thanks for another great pick. I'm actually surprised by its staying power.

4:18 PM EST  
Blogger Marina said...

I think this is one of the most unique and ...unexpected Creeds. Complex and very enjoyable. Have you tried their Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie? It is not alike it in any way, but it is another unusual and sophisticated Creed scent quite unlike their others fragrances.

4:33 PM EST  

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