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Wednesday, October 25, 2006

Perfume Review: LesNez The Unicorn Spell

According to René Schifferle, the idea behind The Unicorn Spell was that of “frostiness, violet, moonlight and transparency”. Somewhat contrary to that, I find this fragrance appealingly “substantial” and see it in vivid colors. It is predominantly purple, ornamented with luscious green in the beginning, bejeweled with lush dark-pink in the middle notes and enriched by the luxuriant brown in the drydown. The sweetly poetic name conceals the scent that is actually rather “dark”. The enchanted forest where unicorns dwell is full of black magic and hidden dangers.

I would position The Unicorn Spell in the happy middle between the dry elegance of Violette Precieuse and the woody sweetness of Bois de Violette. It is has a hint of the cold austerity of the former and that of an almost gourmand feel of the latter. It is more of a violet “soliflore” than either. Usually, violet soliflores bore me to tears; they are too dainty for me. This one, however, is a wonderful exception. It is sumptuous, at times almost creamy, not in the least powdery and has a very satisfying “solid” feel about it. As René pointed out yesterday, this is not a “perfume for sweet little girls”.

The violet is undoubtedly a queen here; it rules and dominates the composition. The other notes are there to compliment and enhance but never to obscure Her Majesty. They come to pass in the background, highlighting the beauty of the star note. The succulent and cold green top notes outfit the purple queen in a velvet gown the color of the charmed forest. The vaguely berry-like accord in the middle brightens her dress with glittering gems. The subtle woodiness of the drydown envelops her in a soft cloak dyed the brown of tree bark ... I smell some vanilla in the drydown, and it is this note that adds cashmere-like cuddliness to the base, making it somewhat reminiscent of the fluffy woodiness of Bois d'Argent. I am spellbound (pun shamelessly intended) by this beautiful, soulful composition.

The Unicorn Spell is sold at, for approximately $68.00-$125.00 for regular bottles or $300.00 for the limited edition bottle encased in a sculpture by Gillian White (pictured).

The photo of the bottle is from, the painting is The Gate by Christophe Vacher.

Tomorrow, Part Deux of Tom's fearless exploration of an entirely different Nez- Nez a Nez line.


Blogger Kelley said...

Wonderful review. I am so excited about my samples now I can't stand it. This sounds like it might need to come live at my house! Oh, yes, you shall be mine!

11:08 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

The Unicorn is going to be mine too. Even if I have to walk to Mordor to get it and fight orcs on the way there. :-D

11:10 PM EDT  
Blogger chayaruchama said...

Thanks to your evil ways, my friends, I,too await samples...
I'm an open lover of violet, however.
How I love that painting !

7:33 AM EDT  
Blogger lilybp said...

I really liked this, and if I weren't so broke from the sniffa, I would echo all the buyers; as it is, I will have to wait awhile (and fight several monetary orcs) before I buy:) I do adore the the "green been" part. The bottle looks oddly reminiscent of my brother's discontinued fave--Stardust for Men.

7:58 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I like it too..there is another Vacher paiting, of a figure standing on a cliff, which I can;t fit anywhere...but I will. Love his work.

8:46 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Monetary orcs! HAHAHA. Yes, I am fighting those hard, the swords are clanging as we speak...and no Aragorn to help me :-(

8:47 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh, my!
"It is predominantly purple, ornamented with luscious green in the beginning, bejeweled with lush dark-pink in the middle notes and enriched by the luxuriant brown in the drydown."
This is so vivid that I feel I can smell it, just from this description.
I want to try this, even if it is "not in the least powdery"! ;)

9:48 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Here is wishing that in addition to being vivid and luscious it will also be verrrrry powdery on your skin! :-)

9:49 AM EDT  
Blogger tmp00 said...

definately looking forward to trying these...

11:18 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

And I am looking forward to reading your reviews :-D

11:33 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Violet w/ no still my heart. The sooner my samples show, the happier I'll be. Esp. after reading this review! And you know how Little Miss Columbina wants all your "breakables?" Just wait until she's 13, and can read the blogs as well as you. Suffice it to say, DD1 is itching to try this one...she's a violet fan, hugely.

11:56 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Don't scare me! :-) Besides, she won't be allowed to go online till she is like 30. There are predators out there, lurking :-) Can you just tell I watch too much Law & order SVU :-)

12:00 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

PS. Which one(s) is your daughter's favorite violet scent?

12:00 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I am very impressed too. Still struggling with L'animatiere, but love the other two.

12:18 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

This was my second fave. I too love the green part of it. Like you said, it manages to hide the powderiness of violet brilliantly. Simply gorgeous.

12:47 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

So you like the Lion more? I like that one too, a lot. Shall we find a bank to rob perhaps, what do you think? :-)

12:50 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

thanks Colombina,
Wonderful review.

1:32 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Thank you, Anna!

1:36 PM EDT  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

I adore Unicorn Spell, easily my favorite from the line and high up on my list of best discoveries of the year. Lovely review!

4:47 PM EDT  
Blogger marchlion said...

I'm now thinking that, not only will I love all three, which will I love most?

6:30 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

*takes off the badge that say R's Evil Scent Twin* We are evil twins no more, I think :-)

11:07 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

You might even love all three
bwah ha ha

11:08 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

You love violets. This is a wonderful violet. Ergo you will love it :-)

11:08 PM EDT  
Blogger elle said...

I'm not a huge violet fan normally, but I am convinced I will adore Dame Daemon. I got the sample - just haven't had a chance to try it yet.

8:52 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I would love to hear your thoughts on Dame Daemon, when you get a chance to try it!

8:59 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

my daughter's favorite violet? Easy...L'Artisan Verte Violette is #1. Number 2 is Borsari Violette. She's tried a bunch of also-rans, incl. L. Tonatto's Duse (way too sweet!)SL Violette et bois is on the to-try list, as is the CB Violet. And now, the Unicon Spell has rocketed to the top! I have to watch it, though. DD2 tried Rahat Loukoum and now wants a bell jar of the stuff. Beware the dangers of unrestricted sniffage in the young!

11:39 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

They are sophisticated little things, your daughters! :-) Congratulations, what great taste they have! :-)

11:43 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh, this is a lovely fragrance! I recieved the samples this morning and I'm sitting here right now, sniffing my arm and gently falling in love. This is the most serene, milky violet I have had the pleasure to meet. Very dreamy, very poetic. There's going to be a big hole in my budget this month:)


7:55 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

It will put a hole in my budget too ...:-)

8:37 AM EDT  
Anonymous Altaf Khan said...


how to break black magic spell

3:20 AM EDT  
Anonymous Altaf Khan said...


how to break black magic spell

3:21 AM EDT  

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