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Saturday, August 18, 2007

Bespoke scents for historic figures

Marian Bendeth interviewed perfumers Francis Kurkdjian, Christophe Laudamiel, Jean Michel Duriez and Maurice Roucel asking each to pick a famous persona and describe a perfume they would create to suit that persona. Francis Kurkdjian chose Maria Callas, Christophe Laudamiel - Marlene Dietrich, Jean-Michel Duriez - Marie Antoinette, and Maurice Roucel - Julius Caesar and Jesus Christ. I was intrigued by Roucel's idea for Christ's scent. "I would create the smell of purity", he says, but instead of choosing predictable "pure" acquatic or ozonic notes, the perfumer opts for the ingredients that would evoke "the color white": "I would use powdery floral notes such as heliotrope, but it would also be spicy, and have iris, also violets and woods. These notes have so many sides to them, they create an aura." Kurkdjian's perfume for Callas, "a floral bouquet fragrance based on a tuberose accord, with a soft, spicy trail of fresh clove buds and green cinnamon bark that wraps your body and soul" and Laudamiel's scent for Dietrich, "woody, floral, fruity, opulent and rich" also sound very interesting. Duriez's interpretation of Marie Antoinette's persona through the lens of the eponymous the Sofia Coppola was quite unexpected.

You can read the whole article on Please note that due to a mistake on the part of National Post, Bendeth's interview is published without a byline and appears to be a part of Iris Benaroia's article. Please scroll down to the paragraph starting with "Judging by the number of new fragrances..." to read the interview.

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Blogger Unknown said...

From the article:
"Why would someone want to smell like confection?

Ask the grown women in Japan who sport tartan kilts, pigtails, knee socks and sneakers and buy perfume that smells like baby girls. Bendeth refers to the latter as "Lolita lollipop scents."

Yea, what is it with mature japanese women dressing up like school girls? Are they catering to the weird perverted fantasys of japanese men (who I thought were more in love with robots than women!)

And *Shock* at the retail prices quoted for the celeb juices ... online discount shopping has spoiled me :p

I would imagine a fragrance created for Jesus would have a "metallic" note of some kind ..

8:43 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I smiled when I read about the retail prices. Thank goodness for places like Scentiments, etc.

8:50 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Wow, you already know which one I want - Kurkdjian's Callas perfume. Tuberose and clove? I am SO there! The Dietrich one sounds intriguing as well.

5:37 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Don't they? They sound wonderful!

5:40 PM EDT  

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