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Thursday, December 06, 2007

Perfume Review: Lubin Vetiver and L'eau Nueve

By Tom
Two new scents from the house whose previous release was the reissue of the delicious Idole.

Vetiver starts off sweet and rather cold, its vetiver tinged with grapefruit and pepper. As it moves forward, cloves and a slight bitter rootiness come into play. Further on, incense joins in with a whiff of Tabac Blond. While this reads as surprisingly light, it has a sly sillage; I was getting whiffs of myself all day. Very pleasurable ones at that. Although It does read as a fairly manly scent, I have a feeling that quite a few ladies will be filching it; it has that allure of a cute girl in her boyfriends button-down shirt. She'll be filching it of she can wrest it from his clutches that is. I surprised myself with this one, since initially I wasn't in total love with it's chilly opening. I ended up quite liking it. Vetiver fans should be thrilled, especially at $95 for 75ML.

L'eau Nueve starts of rather disconcertingly with a minted sweetness that's almost
literally like candy. The candy accord doesn't last, almost immediately being joined by citrus peel (listed as Lemon Orange {Meyer Lemon?} and Bergamot). There about 67.000 other fragrances that do this, but this one does it well; it's a little Pucci dress of a scent. Light lavender pops in and dances around with sage, the scent entertainingly goes from warm to cold like one of those crisp partly cloudy fall days. The drydown unites the seemingly impossibly disparate notes with a light woody musk. There will be some serious filching of this from him; I suggest calendaring alternate wearing days. But this one's also $95 for 75ML, so let him have a few spritzes, okay?

At LuckyScent.


Blogger Marina said...

I, rather predictably, loved Vetiver. L'eau Nueve I found strangely underwhelming, a too-sweet citrus with no depth and no character.

9:42 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

I was surprised by L'eau Nueve- it seemed like an anti-establishment sort of scent. like something that Edie Sedgewick would have worn. But not dated. Of the two, Vetiver is by far the better, but if I bottle of Nueve showed up in my stocking I would not weep bitter tears..;

9:49 PM EST  
Blogger Kelley said...

Tom, I am still nursing the decant of Guerlain's Vetiver that you sent me. How do they compare? How does this compare to Querelle?

10:15 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

I liked this one almost as much as the Guerlain- it's a bit more raw but treads the same ground.

It's an entirely different beast than Querelle, there's nothing of that PG glottal oddness that I love about that scent: Querelle is dark places where dark things can happen; Vetiver is bright, bright, bright (despite the leather) like some glittering vacation on the Riviera circa 1967, where you are as suave and glittering as the Aston Martin you drove to the quay to board your yacht

10:59 PM EST  
Blogger Gaia said...

These two sound very me (and very nice for the man who shares my bottles), it's making me twitch with excitement. I adore Idole, so I'm not surprised Lubin has done it again.

1:07 AM EST  
Blogger elle said...

Hmmm. Had planned on giving these a pass after seeing the promo videos, but sounds like I will have to try them after all. I'm not a grapefruit fan, but the vetiver one does sound like it has real potential.

7:40 AM EST  
Blogger lilybp said...

Being predictable here, too: thumbs up for Vetiver, down for l'eau Neuve. You have moved me to wear Querelle today--it's been too long!

8:15 AM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I almost ordered samples of these last night, but I skipped over them. Now I wish I had! Doh!

8:51 AM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


I'd love to read your impressions..

12:14 PM EST  
Blogger NowSmellThis said...

Liked them both, but the Vetiver seemed more interesting. L'Eau Neuve like too many other things. But think L'Eau Neuve is meant for women, is that not right?

12:15 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


The grapefruit isn't intrusive at all, it just gives the vetiver a little sparkle

12:15 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Querelle is so gorgeous.. PG is a house that so far hasn't had a mis-step (even the ones that I don't care for I respect)

12:17 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


put them on your next order!

12:17 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...


Yes, my unclear writing didn't make that clear at all. Nueve is a womans scent, but one which a guy could very easily wear. I meant to write that he would be filching it from her (at the same time she's filching his vetiver)

12:20 PM EST  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Tom - now, i've been avoiding these in spite of my love for those bottles (it helps that they're not available at the usual Euro etail outlet...). Seems like I'm gonna need to track down a sample of the Vet after all... Hmmm. Dunno whether that makes me happy or sad. Problem is, I love some vets (Vet Tonka, Guerlain) but others make me ill - Vet extraordinaire, Querelle (oh demon fume, how I loved you and how you tortured me for it).

What do you think?

3:15 PM EST  
Blogger tmp00 said...

If the Guerlain makes you ill, I think this one would not commend itself to you...

4:06 PM EST  

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