Perfume Review: Domenico Caraceni

Sometimes ignorance is a blessing. Not knowing any background info on a brand, notes, etc, allows one to smell a perfume with a fresh nose, so to say. Not, to my shame, being familiar with Domenico Caraceni, upon sniffing their eponymous blend, I decided it was a feminine fragrance, and the rare species at that - a chypre. Have I done my homework before sniffing, I would have realized that a line that, since 1913, has been specializing in custom tailored suits, would probably release a masculine perfume as their signature. And indeed, according to First in Fragrance, Domenico Caraceni Eau de Toilette is "a classic composition for the elegant gentleman with a great style." A woman-fan of chypres, however, will not find this fairly dry, not particularly floral and beautifully understated scent to be any harder to wear than Y, Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum, Crêpe de Chine...and would certainly consider it much easier going than Bandit. The frankincense note is apparent, on my skin, from the very start, and, combined with the beautifully bright bitterness of petit grain, it creates, in the top notes, an accord that is something in between black tea and whiskey. Geranium and rose perform wonderfully together, bringing to the scent a deep, earthy floral undertone. The thorny quality of the flowers is underscored by the presence of spicy, somewhat pine-like aroma of cypress. I don't know whether the composition actually contains any of the classic chypre ingredients such as, first and foremost, oakmoss, but, whatever ingredients were used to achieve that effect, the base notes of Domenico Caraceni, do have, to my nose, a mossy, ambery feel and the restrained elegance of a proper chypre. Classically structured and classically refined, but with a bit of a quirky twist (incense!), Domenico Caraceni was a delightful discovery for me. Highly recommended, for men and women alike. Domenico Caraceni is available at First in Fragrance, €79.00 for 100ml.