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Friday, May 01, 2009

Guerlain Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus: Perfume Review

Although I appreciate Mitsouko, objectively, as a Masterpiece and a Classic, subjectively, I do not love it. When I wear it, Mitsouko is out there all by itself, and I am out here all by myself, we don't mesh, it does not melt into my skin, it is not "my" scent at all. So forgive me, Mitsouko lovers, for not finding the emergence of this flanker sacrilegious. And the thing is...we may moan about them all we want, but there will always be flankers. Companies will always attempt to make easier profit on the names of already popular scents. As Ecclesiastes would say, why shouldest thou vex thyself lamenting the inevitable? And not all follow-ups are tragically unworthy of their big ancestors. Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere, Vol de Nuit Evasion, Farenheit 32 are rather good. So is Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus.

The beginning of the scent is, to me, recognizably Mitsouko, only about 100 watts brighter. There is much more citrus in the beginning, the fragrance is more brisk, fresher, with none of the indolent smoky peachiness of the classic, but there is still a certain very Guerlain weightiness about the blend, a certain dark substantionality that is palpable under the breezier notes. As the scent progresses, it temporarily loses that solid Guerlain feel, becoming even more citrusy and more floral, in a cold, clean sort of way (that would be lotus). But only temporarily, because the depth returns, although when it does, the hints of Mitsouko's trademark buttery powderiness are replaced with what I would describe as peppery powderiness. Think the famously non-oakmoss chypre 31 Rue Cambon. This kind of slightly piquant, mineral earthiness that stood in for chypre in Chanel's creation stands for it in Fleur de Lotus as well.

The brighter, lighter, less oily-smoky-bitter Mitsouko suits me much more than the original. Also, when I say, lighter, I don't mean insubstantial. This is still a fairly robust and complex perfume, which takes time to reveal its various facets and lasts a long time. Yes, it is not the Mitsouko, but I think that the very decent flanker does not disgrace its hallowed name.

Ask for it at Guerlain boutique in Bergdrof Goodman, $100.00 for 60ml of Eau de Toilette.

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Blogger Flora said...

Wow, of all the perfumes to get a flanker, Mitsouko is about the last one I would think of! I actually think it sounds great, I love lotus. I look forward to trying it,and I hope it's not going to be one of those single-store exclusives - no Bergdorf's in my neck of the woods.

12:10 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Mitsouko is famous Chypre perfume.

1:25 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

The last one I would think of too but there we go :-)

8:04 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

yes it is :-)

8:04 AM EDT  
Blogger Alyssa said...

Hey, good to hear! I can't say it sounds appealing, exactly, that combination of bright citrus and cold lotus, but it sounds like they put some effort into it, the end sounds very nice indeed, and most importantly it sounds nothing like a dessert for children. *cough*le petit robe noire*cough*

Mitsouko l'original does love me, especially the extrait. I was shocked, but it is so. She doesn't even mind my jeans and messy hair. Though I have a feeling she really would rather see me in a better pair of shoes...

9:06 AM EDT  
Anonymous MamaThinksForHerself said...

Oh sweet fancy Moses...Is the juice actually turquoise?!?

Please say it is only my screen.


9:06 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Now what kind of shoes would she like, you think? :-)

9:08 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

It looks regular perfumey color in my sample, not blue like that

9:10 AM EDT  
Anonymous MamaThinksForHerself said...

Thanks so much, Marina! Regular perfumey color is as it should be.

Because turquoise Mitsouko is wrong on so many levels.

9:13 AM EDT  
Blogger chayaruchama said...

The bottle is blue-ish...

I really liked this, and was very pleasantly surprised; if I didn't already have plenty of Mitsouko-
I would have jumped for it.
It IS that good.

Yo, Marinochka !
Again, we are kin.
How's it hangin' ?

9:15 AM EDT  
Blogger elle said...

I actually do love the original Mitsouko in parfum form. I got a sample of this just yesterday and, frankly, was not feeling overly hopeful about it, especially since I don't particularly care for any of the Guerlains in edt form. The shock of lovely scent wafting up from my wrist after I applied it and needing to *immediately* resniff it practically gave me sampling whiplash. I'm stunned. Love it. And am now extremely hopeful about the reformulation of the original.

9:16 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

As long as it smells good...

9:22 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

How are you? I am too wondering if I do or do not need a bottle of this.

9:22 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Shocking, right? I was very surprised as well!

9:23 AM EDT  
Blogger lovethescents said...

I've been curious about this since I first spotted this on TPC a while ago. Thank you so much for 'putting out my fire', so to speak. I'm not a big Mitsouko fan either, but the lotus flower intrigued me. Following your review, I would still be interested in trying this, but certainly not as much.

9:42 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Lighting up a fire, putting it out, either way is fine with me, as long as you found the review helpful in some way :-)

9:44 AM EDT  
Blogger ScentScelf said...

Always appreciate your thoughtful scouting, M.

Sometime, perhaps there should be a list compiled...Fine Flankers...and perhaps its evil twin, Phooey Flankers. ;)

11:45 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

Definitely! That would be very informative.

12:52 PM EDT  
Anonymous March said...

Waitaminnit! How did I not KNOW ABOUT THIS?!?! It sounds really fab, and since Elle (my scent twin) loves it ... well. Maybe I need some?

Although I'm staring at your image and trying to decide whether that little lotus logo thing in the middle looks tacky. :)

4:33 PM EDT  
Anonymous Rappleyea said...

You said - "it's not THE Mitsouko".... well, neither is Mitsouko. I just got a new bottle of Mitsouko extrait from BG, and it is nothing like my last bottle. Not a bad scent - lighter and more floral than it used to be, but okay. The beautiful bergamot top is gone, replaced by what i think some others have referred to as a "bread" note. On me, it smells like diesel. Thankfully that only lasts for about 10 minutes.

I've just ordered a sample of the Fleur de Lotus, and thanks to your lovely review, I'm now anxiously awaiting it!

8:53 PM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

At least it's not a little black night gown

8:04 AM EDT  
Blogger Marina said...

I understand what you mean. Even the Mitsouko is not THE Mitsouko anymore...Do let me know what you think about FdeL.

8:05 AM EDT  
Anonymous Harold Weiner said...

That's Great for me by reading this which give me the perfect and branded perfume details after reading this blog i am suggesting my friend to read and use these branded perfume like Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus. thanks for interesting and fabulous information

7:25 AM EDT  

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