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Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Some (Blush Blush) New Friends

Mini Reviews by Marla

The perfume gods have been kind this month; I’ve received two superb sample packs, one from Aedes de Venustas, and the other from the generous MiN NewYork. I’ve managed to clothes, paper, skin test a few (no rocks or scissors, yet). Here are my first half-dozen: ELd’O- Putain des Palaces- This made me blush and giggle. If you’ve ever walked down a hotel hall in a “colorful” section of Paris or Berlin and caught of whiff of people engaged in…you know…through a doorway or two, (and I’ve never been in such hallways, never!), you’ll know what this perfume smells like. It’s a powdery floral with…you know, and a tid tad of BO. EL d’O must have some hilarious stories to tell about their Scent Research Program…. I actually quite liked this one and found it kind of cozy and carnal.

ELd’O Jasmin et Cigarette- Yes, I know I’m about 5 years late to the ELd’O party here. I was a newbie blogger when this one came out. Never tried it. So sad for me, it’s incredible! I’m a jasmine junkie, true, and I do like my galbanum, but have you ever tried to get the balance right between the two? Very tricky. But they did it. It’s a low-key jasmine, airy and ephemeral, with just the right touch of ashy galbanum. Cool. Perfect.

 Aedes de Venustas EdP- That’s right, the new “Violent Green” one. OK, it’s rhubarb, it’s not violent at all unless you’ve never cut up real rhubarb for a pie. Then it might be a bit of a shock. It’s very well done, but there is a celery note wafting around in there, a Duchaufour trademark, that’s a dealbreaker for me. Can’t stand celery notes. I checked on Basenotes to make sure I wasn’t hallucinating it, and indeed, others (though not all), catch a whiff of celery, too. But I’m glad there’s a rhubarb out there, and let’s see more!

 By Kilian Amber Oud- I’m turning into a serious Calice Becker Fangirl. I can’t think of a single perfume she’s made that I don’t want to wear. I love real Middle Eastern ouds and have a good collection of Asian oud incense, so I sure don’t need a Frenchified, watered-down Oud For Westerners. But this is just so soft, so gorgeous, so pillowy. I’m hooked. Westernized ouds can be lovely, as it turns out. I am contrite. By Kilian Love and ELd’O Divin’ Enfant—Tweety Bird vs. Godzilla. Love is the ultimate marshmallow, those lovely ones made in Italy for Pasqua, so goooood!! And Divin’ Enfant is Love with a skanky, leather- gloved fist waiting to punch you in the nose! I actually like them both. So, my usual question, do you have a mini review for me? Please, leave a comment!


Anonymous Anonymous said...

My heart is racing like I've run up a hill reading your mini reviews. AWESOME!
Portia x

10:12 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks, Portia! (I think.)

10:40 AM EDT  
Anonymous cuiresse said...

I have a little decant of Putain and love getting that little whiff of fleshy bits every now and then. I have recently discovered Love and am enjoying this as my favourite gourmand scent - so comforting and elegant compared to some OTT gourmands. It is autumn in the southern hemisphere and I think Love will be comforting me for some time. Thanks for mentioning some of my favourites.

11:22 AM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Love is a perfect autumn scent, you're right!

11:45 AM EDT  
Anonymous Gwenyth said...

I love mini reviews because they're fun! ....and because a snapshot, in its own way, is just as good as a painting.
I have learned that ELdO excels at creating well-made fragrances. They are long-lasting and intricately crafted with truly interesting structures.
You've named the 3 I own - Jasmin et Cigarette, Divin Enfant, and Putain des Palaces.
I wear them frequently and happily.

12:59 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Fascinating. Olfactoria's Travels reviewed Putain des Palaces today, and did not mention any naughty bits. Now I want to try this, because I love quiet or even loud skank in perfume. I'm just not sure what I'd say if by some miracle someone asked what fragrance I was wearing. Hmmm....

I just purchased Arhcives 69, and I love it's camphor blast with violet leaf up top. It sweetens with fruit (official notes list prune) then dies to warm musk. It's a little weird. There's pepper and pimento in there and something metallic and off (a whiff of nitrile??)but I love it. After the first 20 minutes, it wears very close to the body, which is nice.

Other thought: Fils de Dieu is also fascinating. There are reviews everwhere, and I love the citrus and rice notes. Know that it GROWS. It seems to get louder and louder as I wear it, even though the notes are very light. I wore it, dabbed, to choir, and had everyone coughing and scooting away from me. You'd think I'd poisoned everyone with a noxious cloud. Sigh. I still like it, but will keep it out of the office and away from the choirloft. Be well.

1:37 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

ELd'O really is a wonderful line, I'm enjoying it thoroughly! And I agree with your choices- I also add Like This and Rossy de Palma. My DH smells really yummy in Tom of Finland, too.

2:47 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hemlock Sillage,
Olfactoria and I have been chatting today about the "skank factor" in Putain des Palaces. I've been wearing it in warm, humid weather, she's been wearing it in a cool spring climate. I even wore it after taking a long shower and it was still skanky. So I'll agree to call her (the perfume, not Olfactoria) a "courtesan", not a "harlot" or a "wild woman of the night".

2:51 PM EDT  
Blogger Undina said...

I tested Putain des Palaces only once (I didn't buy or even asked for the sample - it just came in one of the blogo-friends' packages) and I don't remember much. My notes, though, state: "I do not like the opening hour of this perfume - it smells like Amouage but dirtier…" Taking into the account my attitude towards this brand's esthetic I don't know when I find time to test it more.

6:00 PM EDT  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Great mini-review, thanks!

8:28 PM EDT  

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