Perfume Review: Guerlain Plus Que Jamais
Plus Que Jamais is one of the Guerlain scents I Don’t Quite Get. I think it is a gorgeous perfume and I would love to own a bottle…what I don’t quite get is why, given the fact that there is nothing especially unique and unusual about it, it is kept hidden from the masses among the fantastic exclusives like Attrape-Coeur, Derby and Liu. Plus Que Jamais is the kind of scent, which, were Guerlain to release it for wide distribution alongside L’Instant and Insolence, could have become their biggest modern bestseller. There is nothing about it that “an average customer” would not understand or like. In fact, this beautiful, luscious confection of a scent is not altogether unlike such hits as Flowerbomb or its elusive Extreme version and has a potential to do just as well or even better. Get a lovely spokesmodel for it, make a slightly obscure but attractive commercial, put an ad in every glossy magazine on the planet, and -voilà!-, a new perfume blockbuster is born. And in the case of Plus Que Jamais, the success would have been well-deserved, not all due to the hype, because the scent, although not earth-shatteringly original, is sumptuous, masterfully blended and incredibly attractive. The perfect ad for Plus Que Jamais would look something like this: Plus Que Jamais is lavish; it is Perfume at its best, an affordable luxury, an aspirational product. One spritz, and you feel beautiful, forever-young, elegantly attired, coddled, pampered and spoiled rotten. …It is magic! As to how it smells…with notes of bergamot, ylang-ylang, neroli, iris, jasmine and vanilla, it is a floral-oriental blend with an appealing, candied fruitiness and the rich, vanillic sweetness, which is almost, but not quite, gourmand. The citrus is apparent but not harsh in the beginning, the heart is overflowing with honeyed, sugared flowers, the base is softly woody and sweet…the notes are blended so very smoothly, the fragrance has a polished, supremely luxurious feel of the most expensive of silks and of the skin used to wearing only such silks and such expensive, opulent fragrances. It is altogether almost too perfect, like an impeccably dressed society woman of indefinite age (forever-young, remember?), shimmering with tasteful but noticeable jewels, with not a blond hair out of place. It is a little too glossy, a little too conventionally beautiful. It doesn’t have a twist, a slight imperfection that would make it more interesting…On my skin, although certainly as opulent as any of the classic Guerlains, it lacks the dark depth of the best fragrances to come from this House. Still…Plus Que Jamais is a stunning scent and I do wish it was more easily available. Plus Que Jamais is a part of Les Parisiennes collection and is available at the Champs-Elysées in Paris, € 170.00 for 4.2oz of Eau de Parfum. To order, call 00 33 1 45 62 52 57 or email champs-elysees@guerlain.fr. According to Isabel Rousseau, the head of Customer Relationships Department at Guerlain, to obtain Plus Que Jamais, one can also get in touch with Neiman Marcus in San Francisco or with the Toronto Boutique. Image sources, operagloves.com, guerlain.com. Please visit Aromascope, to read Ina's wonderful review of Plus Que Jamais. |
45 Comments:
Can someone let me in on why the San Francisco Neimans apparently has everything? This one, all of the Serge Lutens, and the Beverly Hills store does nuttin?
Grrrrrrrrrr!
Wow, aguerlain I might end up loving, the only one I have ever been able to pull of is Shalimar Light. Which I do love. Colombina, forgive me for asking but does it smell old-fashioned? (Old Ladyish)
Oh, this sounds like exactly the thing to satisfy my craving for an opulent floral-oriental with a vanillic base that is not too sweet. I've been having this craving for a week or so now, and nothing in my collection *quite* fits. I will seek out decants on ebay when my no buy ends. Thank you, Marina, for another wonderful review. I wouldn't mind feeling like a *too* perfect society lady for a day!
This is one of my favorite curl up w/ a book scents. Love it! You're right, it doesn't have any interesting twists, but I can forgive it that since it gets such high marks on the comfort scale.
Tom,
I was surprised too. But the wording was a little obscure. Does it mean that NM has PQJ? Does it mean they would order it for you? Hmmm
Kayliana,
I have no doubt that you would find this totally wearable. If the classic Guerlains have that heavy, broody something on your skin, as you said, that old-fashioned feeling...then this one lack that quality entirely. I find it to be very modern.
M,
Well, the way you described your craving...I think you should look no further. PQJ is it :-) It is not *too* sweet, and when I said gorumand, I meant in the most abstarct way possible.
L,
It does not turn too sweet on your skin? It is a comfort scent, isn't it. But also so glam, can totally be taken out to some posh soiree :-)
Patty,
Right? And as for the price...well, for a wider market they wouldn't have to sell it in big bottles just so that the price looks "exclusive", and for a 1oz, 1.7oz, 3.3oz, the price would be comparable to other luxe scents out there.
No, it doesn't turn too sweet...anxiously reaches for wood to knock on and salt to toss over shoulder. Oh, yes...definitely could go glam, but for me it just requires a silk robe and a book, given my lack of charity soirees to attend. :-) I *love* the pic you chose for the ad - perfect!
Sounds like a keeper to me- but I've got #68, and Guet-Apens, so I probably don't need it ...lol.
Do I need it?
You know what I like !
L,
SILK rob, definitely silk. Nothing else could do where PQJ is concerned :-)
Chaya,
I think you too would think that it is gorgeous but a little safe. Besides, if you have Guet-Apens, you don't need anything else :-D
Christina,
I agree. But wouldn't it have been an even bigger tribute to Jean-Paul Guerlain's perfume if it was sold everywhere and was available for more people to admire? Their logic is strange, isn't it?
You know, I do like this, but I never wear it. It somehow doesn't feel like "me." Maybe it's the sweetness--it's not unpleasantly "too sweet," but it's sweeter than I usually feel.:) But I am sure it would be a big winner if generally released.
J,
Somehow I don't think of it as "you" either. :-) I am not even sure it is quite me, and I am more inclined to like "this kind" if scents than you do, I think. :-)
Hello! a lurker tempted out of hiding here. I love Guerlain - my favourites being Mitsouko and Vol de Nuit (parfum) and I am planning a couple of days in Paris visiting the perfume houses - of course Guerlain is on my list. What made me smile is the bemusement over the limited availability of PQJ - Guerlain is so FRENCH! And the French are the most perverse nation. I am english and apparently we have an "entente cordiale" - lol! I have so enjoyed reading this blog and NST and the Posse - thank you all very much!
Donanicola,
Thank you very much for your kind words. I hope you have wonderful time in Paris (of course you will) :-)
Thank you Colombina1 I think I will time my visit for after the new Chanels are released though I hope I don't fall too much in love - 200 mls is an awful lot to lug about with the SL bell jar I might also spring for!
Columbina-
From what I can gather (and if there's any body from The City out there that can confirm this, please do), the San Francisco Neimans has some special deal going on that they sell all these wonderful things that no other in the chain does: I've heard they have all the Serge Lutens that aren't sold on the site and are exclusive to Barneys in Beverly Hills. So it's not out of the realms of the unreal that they might actually have this one.
Donanicola,
Ah, great idea! When you get to try them please report!!
Tom,
Ah, so it is a very special NM then...good to know!
I didn't love this one -- like you, found it too conventionally beautiful -- but agree entirely that it is very approachable & would no doubt sell well if they did more to market it & distribute it.
R,
I also think that the fantastically overpriced Nuit d'Amour would probably sell just as well if not better.
Thank you, Marina. I love, adore, desire Plus Que Jamais. May be it`s not a "Historical event" but it has all that I wait and need from fragrance: Comfort and Pleasure.
I hope one day "Guerlain" will think again and we can find PQJ everywhere for the reasonable price.
Genia,
Comfort and pleasure is what perfumes are eally for, isn't it? Twists and turns and couture-like weirdness isn't something one wants all the time. I do hope Guerlain releases this one mroe widely.
Yes,yes! It is the truth.
"Twists and turns and couture-like weirdness isn't something one wants all the time." - I love it and sometimes I thirst it but PQJ definitely about other "things".
Could you tell me your "twists and turns"? I am very curious.
Marina, sorry. Two times...
Please, erase one.
Genia,
Most scents by Lutens are "twisty" (or twisted, LOL). Tubereuse Criminelle immediately comes to mind. Guerlain Djedi. L'Artisan Dzing. Malle Une Fleur de Cassie.
What are yours?
No problem! I am sorry; the blogger does it to me all the time.
Caron(s), Messe de Minuit, "bright" leather...
Hmmmm... It`s en interesting theme. Write about it.
Genia,
You are so right! Definitely Carons. Messe is very much "gothic couture" :-)
I was tickled to see someone mention Shalimar on a perfume blog--even though it's the Light version. :-) It was my first fragrance love. My fifteen-years-older cousin wore it when I was little, and I emulated her by wearing it in my early and mid-twenties. I've always gone for that Guerlain mystery-of-the-Orient thing.
I wish Bois d'Armenie were easier to get. It's a soothing, spicy whisper of smoke. Thank you, Marina. I'm going to wear out my sample.
And thanks also for Parfum d'Empire's Cuir Ottoman. It's fun. It starts out with a strong leathery blast and then settles down into smoothness and softness, a lot like Tabac Blond in that dynamic--but different.
That was a great drawing. Thank you! And is the House of Guerlain great, or what?
Maria,
I envy you for being able to wear Shalimar so beautifully. I am sure it is amazingly gorgeous on you.
So glad you liked Bois d'Armenie!!
I totally agree - this one would fly off the shelves! I'm glad you love it more than Metallica. ;D
Ina,
I love it like 100 times more than Metallica. :-)
When I was at the SF Neimans back in September they did have Plus Que Jamais. The Guerlain SA is lovely and knowledgeable, a delightful excursion!
Heather,
That is wonderful to know!
hurrah another PQJ lover! it's definitely on my tops list, and is one of those few perfumes i can see most of my female relatives wearing. there's nothing snatdoffish or inaccessible about it at all, i agree!
Yay for PQJ! :-)
Marina, I just got this from one of the Paris Guerlain stores last week! This scent is heavenly...it was love and intoxication at first, second, third, fourth, last sniff...such that i forgot to tell the SA to give me the parfum extrait instead of the EDT (wonder if i can talk the people at NM-SF to swap mine for the parfum extrait.....) But i must say... it was tough deciding between Derby, Liu, Attrape-Coeur, Rose Barbare, Angelina Noir..... (sniff) I want to go back to Paris now!
Oh, how wonderful!! Congratulations!
That one is Guerlain best!
This comment has been removed by the author.
Plus Que Jamais is available in the France Pavillion in Epcot at Walt Disney World, and according to the salesgirl there, also at the counter at Saks 5th Avenue in New York.
It is a wonderful fragrance, and I love it. I own many perfumes, and this is my go to fragrance.
My last comment had typos that made my info incorrect, sorry.
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