Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites. Part 2

In the second part of Perfume Stars: Summer Favorites, the creators of some of the most exciting new lines tell us about their ideal warm-weather scents and their preferred holiday destinations. Pierre Guillaume, Parfumerie Generale What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “It is rather more a matter of personality than of climate… Personally I am fond of woody and oriental themes. That’s why I can appreciate heady and generous scents, even in the heat of summer, if they are well done. A tanned skin can give a particular emphasis to oriental fragrance, noble and rich in natural components…On the contrary, so called “fresh” or “aquatic” fragrances can sometimes become disappointing in the heat; their fragile citrus and ozonic components are then most affected. So the alternative would be to use scents for which the naturalness shines and dominates.” What is your favorite holiday destination? “My favorite place for holidays? Just like the composition of the Ideal Perfume, I guess I am still searching! The Balearic Islands, Italy, Morocco… The Mediterranean is the best destination for “Farniente”. But I am also lucky enough to live in a beautiful region: Auvergne offers a huge variety of landscapes. Water can be found everywhere and has shaped “formidable” landscapes of amazing beauty. Life is effervescent: everything seems simple, obvious and so powerful: it is a genuine source of inspiration and is essential to my well-being.” Christopher Brosius, CB I Hate Perfume What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “i like the smells of real things best so my favorite scents are those of the natural world - things that smell of the country, the forest or the sea. i suppose since i spend the majority of my time in a heavily urban area, those smells remind me of where i'd rather be. my favorite perfume at the moment is "wild hunt" (my forest archetype) but i still wear a lot of "memory of kindness" in the summer as well as "CB93". and though i'm not generally drawn to ocean smells myself, i've been wearing a lot of "eternal return" too this summer. i've also been drawn to the scent of white flowers lately as well which i find unusual - i used to hate them. still there are many times i wear "cradle of light" usually if i have to go into the city or to dinner on a hot summer evening. in the daytime the perfume's hypnotic quality keeps me calm and i really enjoy its serenity in the evening. once in a while though when the weather is very hot or humid, i'll wear a scent that isn't usually thought of as a "summer" fragrance - deep slightly spicy scents like "patchouli EMPIRE" or my version of "gingerbread". the latter is especially invigorating yet sensual in heavy weather.” What is your favorite holiday destination? “interesting question as i don't really take them - i haven't had a proper vacation since 1998 and even then i wound up working during the second week. this is often a problem for me because if i'm breathing in and out, i'm working... still i'd have to say my favorite places are small towns in the country with at least a few excellent bookshops; preferably somewhere in the forest or by the sea. there are a few places i love in napa & sonoma, on the south coast of england or in the catskills near woodstock. i can wander around through the woods, the vineyards or by the ocean and then spend hours looking for books. i hate large crowds and loud noise so most popular holiday destinations are pretty much off my list. there are a few cities i really enjoy spending time in as well though - especially london and san francisco. whenever i go there on business i try to schedule a couple of days to myself (and sometimes that works out). early next summer i'm planning a trip to grasse where i haven't been since the summer of 1980 - well before i had any thoughts of perfume. of course that's going to be largely a business trip but i remember it being such a beautiful place that i'm going to take a few days and simply poke around provence...” Le Labo Eddie Roschi What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “I like to wear all type of scents in summer and usually don’t really make the difference between heavy or lighter scents or winter or summer scents. I also wear the heavier scents in summer but in lighter mode by just putting less on! My favorites include Mugler’s Cologne, Le Labo’s Bergamote 22 or Tuberose 40, Comme des Garcons’s Palissandre, ...” What is your favorite holiday destination? “A diving live-aboard for a week anywhere where diving is great and weather is blue!” Fabrice Penot What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “First, I hate the fragrances with "summer edition" on them... it is usually an efficient way to recognize without even spraying a very bad perfume launched in a hurry by a brand to make some fast cash in. So, don't trust anyone claiming: "summer fragrance", but there are great classic fragrances that are perfect for the summer: fresh, elegant, smiling yet sensual...My favorites are "Green Tea" by BULGARY, Eau Sauvage by Dior and the one I am wearing today... BERGAMOTE 22 by Le Labo!!!” What is your favorite holiday destination? “When you have your own perfume brand, you don't need holidays: you never work But if I have to choose: EOLIEAN ISLANDS in Sicily (Italy) in September.” Jessica Dunne, Ellie D What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? It's hard for me to define the ideal summer scent, for me it's many things, and I'm sure that I'm not alone when I say that it's impossible for me to pick my favorite! For me, the ideal summer scent is something that feels right with a summer dress and flip flops, something that doesn't feel stifling or overwhelming in the heat, yet can also be something soothing or nostalgic that wraps me in warmth on a cool evening. I've been wearing a number of scents this summer - when back in the U.S. in the oppressive heat, I favored the clean simplicity of Musc Bleu by Il Profumo, and Ambrette 9 by Le Labo - a gift I received after the birth of my daughter. I can smell my perfume on my baby after carting her around during the day, so it has definitely affected my choices of late. Back at home in London where the weather has been brisk and unpredictable, I'm enjoying a variety that bring me comfort in their own way -- from Champaca and Ormonde Woman by Ormonde Jayne, to In the Summer Kitchen by CB I Hate Perfume, and L'Eau D'Hiver, and Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle.” What is your favorite holiday destination? “My favorite holiday destination - another challenge! I would have to say the Amalfi Coast in Italy.” Ineke Ruhland, Ineke What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “Predictably, I like clean-and-fresh notes in the summer. For me, there is nothing nicer on really hot days than an uncomplicated citrus composition. This is perhaps somewhat ironic since citrus oils are the most photo-sensitizing raw materials on skin in the sun, but I think the crispness cuts through heat and humidity so nicely. One of my all-time favorites is Eau Vitaminé by Biotherm, and particularly the body cream is absolutely yummy. Another wonderful citrus composition is Bulgari Eau Parfumée au thé vert by Jean-Claude Ellena. I remember when it first launched, everyone in our office in Paris was crazy about it, and I still think it is a great summer-time fragrance, crisp and delicious. I would say the citrus notes of my Chemical Bonding fragrance were indirectly inspired by both Eau Vitaminé and Bulgari Eau Parfumée au thé vert, although it has a more substantial amber/musk component to take it through the fall/winter. I also think Stella by Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich is a lovely composition that reminds me of a fresh summer day. I bought it a couple of years ago because I wanted to study the construction of the cap, but I've found myself spritzing it on quite frequently. I think the rose/peony note is just about perfect, very close to a variety of climbing roses we grow in our backyard, called "Cecile Brunner". Rose oils and absolutes can be quite disappointing compared with living roses because they are so much denser and earthier, but Stella's rose note is so natural smelling that it's like Cavallier took rose oil and pumped the air and water pumped back in. I also think all the supporting notes are blended so harmoniously that you barely notice them, even while they add character and interest. I am always impressed by Jacques Cavallier's versatility and talent, and curious to see what he does next. The packaging of Stella is also quite beautiful, and I can understand why it has been such a big success.” What is your favorite holiday destination? “Paris, France: My husband and I go to Paris twice a year for a week or two. We bought an apartment in the Marais neighborhood when we lived there and decided to keep it when we moved to San Francisco, and we now rent it out most of the time. So when we get back, we end up spending about half of our time on maintenance and spring cleaning chores, but still have time to meet up with old friends and see what's new. We love staying connected to Paris, and Europe in general. Our favorite thing to do in the US is to take short weekend trips around the Bay Area. We like to bring our dog, so we're always looking for dog-friendly places. Our favorite in Carmel-by-the-Sea is the Cypress Inn, owned by Doris Day, where dogs are welcome even in the bar/café. We also love Mendocino, Lake Tahoe in the winter, and the Napa/Sonoma wine country. I have designs on this place, which hasn't even opened yet: www.solagecalistoga.com. A pool, biking and a pet program — for me, it doesn't get any better!” Andy Tauer, Tauer Perfumes What are your favorite summer fragrances? What are the characteristics of your ideal summer scent? “Finally, after weeks in rain and with temperatures like we had them in April, summer is here and Marina's question fits with the micro climate: My favorite summer fragrances. Not an easy one. I think there are two answers. One summer scent is light and fresh and cool. It is refreshing like putting my head straight into the Limmat after 2 hours jogging. It fits with social life in summer, allowing me to enter public transport (without AC) and not adding my share to a suffocating cloud of musks and ambergris and lilies. This fragrance features lavender, citrus and decent woods. This fragrance is Pour un Homme by Caron. And then, there is a second answer. This summer scent is a powerful statement and endures 30°C in the shadow. It is sexy. It is wild. But it is also very classy and it fits perfectly with a glass of white wine at 6 pm, the senses all enthralled by the heat and people around me wearing as little as possible. But, it is in all its wildness an elegant fragrance. In summer, especially heavy, strong, lasting fragrances need a thorough and very balanced composition. No cheating possible. The heat brings out all mistakes and what might smell like a nice ambergris vanilla accord at 20°C develops into a synthetic pudding with some washing powder. In this fragrance, I love how its tar notes and indoles are balanced with a peach accord and a clear crispiness. I think it is a little bit of a dandy scent; funny enough I love it, although I don't think I am a dandy. Thus, here's the picture: Sitting on the terrace on Elephant island in Luxor, watching the sun go down, nipping on my Chardonnay and dreaming the dream of past affairs. The fragrance: Knize Ten. What is your favorite holiday destination? "My favourite destination: Kenya.” To be continued on Friday. Images courtesy of Pierre Guillaume, Christopher Brosius, Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi, Jessica Dunne, Ineke Ruhland, Andy Tauer.