Perfume review: Serge Lutens El Attarine
The ever-obscure and loquacious Lutens press release calls El Attarine "sweet-smelling", "gold", "sun-drenched" and compares it to a "topaz". All of which is true. The scent does evoke an image of a golden-brown precious stone with its facets reflecting rays of sun. It also makes me think of an exotic dessert that mixes vanilla and cream with cumin.
El Attarine might be the most enjoyable of the recent Lutens creations, enjoyable due to its creamy softness, its non-overwhelming sweetness, its subtle, warming spiciness. It is superbly comforting. It also seems to me to be one of the least original new Palais Royale releases. The honeyed woods in the top notes bring to mind Feminite du Bois. As cumin and immortelle become apparent, and the scent intensifies further and gets sweeter, I am reminded of the buttery, fiery confection, Arabie. And as the fragrance settles back into the woody creaminess dirtied by a hint of cumin and musk, I smell one of Feminite du Bois' offspring, Bois et Musc.
I still hope that Lutens will at one point get wood-immortelle-cumin (also, elsewhere, cinnamon!) out of his system and will move on to different notes. There are, after all, other ways to depict Orient in perfume. I for one would be curious to see what the dark genius would do with an oud note. He would probably mix it with immortelle...
El Attarine is available exclusively in the Salons du Palais Royal in Paris, 110€ for 75 ml
Labels: Serge Lutens